Which snowblower model for a 1025r?
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Thread: Which snowblower model for a 1025r?

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    Which snowblower model for a 1025r?

    I'm thinking about buying a snowblower for my 1025r.

    Which model do you use?
    Which one do you prefer?

    I never used a front attachment other than the bucket. Is there any special equipment I need other than the snowblower?

    Thanks
    2014 1025r TLB, Frontier 48" rotary cutter, Frontier 60" rear blade, Homemade subsoiler

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    Corndog Hater ColonyPark's Avatar
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    From Deere, in a front mount you will have a choice of the 47" (which is what I have) or the 54". If I was buying today, I would go with the 54" for the extra coverage width. I carried my 47" blower over from previous equipment. They are well built units and I really like mine. You will also need the Quick Hitch setup along with the driveshaft and upstop.


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    Jamie

    2011 JD 1026R - w/60" NON-AutoConnect MMM, FEL w/WR Long Toothbar, 47" Front Mount Snowblower, 54" Front Mount Blade w/ Rubber Edge, 48" KingKutter Tiller & Brush Hog, CountyLine Carry All and CountyLine 60" Rear Blade, Pat's EZ-Change Quick Hitch System
    1990 JD 185 - 46"MMM w/Power Flow Bagger

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    bob
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmercier View Post
    I'm thinking about buying a snowblower for my 1025r.

    Which model do you use?
    Which one do you prefer?

    I never used a front attachment other than the bucket. Is there any special equipment I need other than the snowblower?

    Thanks
    I have the 54 inch snowblower. I can't say if it is better than the 47 other than it is bigger. I do know that the plastic fan or impeller that is used on both models doesn't seem to blow snow as well as the metal fan/impeller that was used on earlier models. I am planning to change from plastic to metal in the spring. There has been discussion on this site about the improvement to metal and how it improves the performance. Superglidesport has done the switch on his 47 and gave an excellent explanation with pictures on how to make the switch. My dealer and JD don't seem to be able to provide a metal impeller part number for the 54 inch snowblower but according to other members on this site part AM109105 will take of the 47 and the 54. In addition to the blower itself you need the drive shaft and the front hitch assembly. I hope that helps a little.
    2011 John Deere 1026R
    H120 FEL with 53 inch bucket
    60D Auto-Connect mower deck
    54 inch snowblower
    647 tiller
    i-match
    Heavy Hitch
    TuffTop
    Ken's bolt on hooks
    ballast box
    wheel weights
    steering wheel spinner knob

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    johnH123's Avatar
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    54" hands down. A rule of thumb for blowers is: it needs to be wider than the front wheels,at least. Now, a 1 series may not have the hp or torque to run a 54 blower. Talk to the dealer about what would be best for you. Also, consider these:

    - How long is the driveway,
    What is the driveway material,
    How much will you spend?

    JohnH123
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    Yamaha Rhino 700, Yamaha Rhino 660,
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    I suggest the 54" wide model if you expect to backup thru a cleared path. The 47" is a bit too narrow to clear a width wider than the tractor. I prefer the blower cut width to be beyond the tractor wheel and tire track width so I'm not driving thru drifts in reverse.

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    ejb69's Avatar
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    Either blower will work. I have the 54". It can be a bit much for my 1026 in deep wet snow over 20".
    Eric

    2011 1026R / H120 / 60D auto-connect, independent-lift mmm / 54" snowblower / 4' KK Pro rotary mower / KK 4' tiller

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    ErikR's Avatar
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    I too would say go 54" if you can swing it. I purchased my 1025R this last November and picked the 47" front snow blower. If I could do it over, I'd go 54". I have a horse shoe shaped driveway and while turning, the 47" is a bit too narrow and I end up with the outside front wheels riding in the deep snow. A few inches wider would be so nice!

    I've had no major problems with mine. I did replace a grease zerk and found one of the shoes has loosened up and caused a shear bolt to break, but it was nothing I couldn't fix myself.
    2014 1025R, H120 loader w/53" bucket and Heavy Hitch Tooth Bar, 54" Auto Connect MMM, 47" QH snow blower, Ballast box and loaded rear tires, Speeco Quick Hitch, Ken's Bolt-on Grab Hooks, King Kutter Carry All, 54" front QH blade w/Heavy Hitch skids, Titan 36" pallet forks, Land Pride GS0560 Grading Scraper, and chrome (kitchen drain pipe) exhaust tip!!

    1950 Allis-Chalmers B, Electric start, PTO, Belt Pulley, Hydraulic pump. Stuck engine (a work in progress)

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    I run a frontier 54" 3pt blower
    For me, having the loader on is invaluable. Once my banks get well over the height of the blower, 26" , it's hard to carve just a bit off at a time, I find it more effective to pull the banks down with loader then blow away.
    The sb1154 is extremely well built and has a very nice cut width and height, with a 24" fan it's the largest in its class that I know of.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    2014 1025r
    R4 tires, H120 loader with QA actuator and switch, 60" auto connect with electric over hydraulic lift/diverter valve, Frontier 54" snowblower w/ custom electric chute, homemade pallet forks, JD ballast box, 53" bucket, custom built rops/light bar, homemade IMatch quick hitch, homemade hydraulic grapple, Frugal Front Backhoe

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    Berettax2's Avatar
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    I have a frontier 1154 and so far I'm very happy with it it throws snow a lot higher and farther than any of the front mounts I've used. last year I had four foot drifts and my front mount wouldn't raise high enough. Took forever to get through. My new rear mount lifts much higher and saves me a lot of time clearing my 400 foot driveway
    ColonyPark and Oberhaz like this.
    2014 1025r
    H120 loader 53" bucket
    1154 frontier snowblower
    1150 frontier tiller
    42" artillian forks
    Homemade cab
    2001 345
    54" mower
    42" snowblower
    Homemade cab

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    Myasis Dragon's Avatar
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    $$$$$

    Then there's the whole "price difference" thing. If you need everything (mounting hareware, front PTO shaft, etc.), you'll spend 3 to 4k for the front mounted blower. If your neck is in good shape and your have decent rear work lights, a 3ph blower might be for you. It's about half the price, at best. Either way, adding weight will be necessary, in my eyes. With the 3ph model, you'll need wheel weights for the rear wheels. With the front mounted, you'll want a ballast box (or similar weight) and front weight is always good for help in turning. If nothing else, I strongly suggest you look into this thread:

    http://www.greentractortalk.com/foru...-traction.html

    If you have R4 tires, the above is an excellent write-up on how to get the most traction for the least amount of money.
    ColonyPark and Oberhaz like this.
    Just call me Jon, not Myasis Dragon (Hint: My a** is draggin') 2013 1025r FILB (Factory installed loader & Backhoe - 260 & H120), 60D mower w/electric over hydraulic (independent) lift, R4 tires, psrumor's seat springs, Kenny D's bolt-on hooks, bxpanded piranha tooth bar on a 49" bucket and a 61" bucket for snow and light material, County Line post hole digger, County Line landscape rake, counterfeit JD box scraper, homemade 4' x 8' farm wagon, Fimco 30 gallon 3ph sprayer.

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