120 R Loader
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    DOUGLASS's Avatar
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    120 R Loader

    Good afternoon folks. I'm going to get a loader for my 1025R in a few weeks. Just curious about what if anything additional I will need to mount it on my machine. As far as I know it will come with the brackets and such. I guess what I'm after is what is necessary and what would be nice to have. Thanks for your input and have a great day!

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Are you purchasing the loader on a pallet and installing it yourself or is the dealer installing it for you?

    In either case, everything you need comes with it. Mounting backets, loader frame and bucket. It should even come with a grill guard.

    As for accessories, about the only thing considered mandatory is a set of Ken's bolt-on hooks for the bucket! :-)
    Kennyd likes this.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    DOUGLASS's Avatar
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    Thank you. I am buying it from the dealer but will install it myself.

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    SulleyBear's Avatar
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    Congratulations, the 120R is an excellent loader and you will really like it. Be certain you get the 53" bucket, which I think is a $49 up charge over the standard "base" bucket. The upgrade to the larger bucket happens so often many dealer order all their 120R loaders with the larger bucket. Just make sure it's what you end up with, especially for the small price increase.

    Make sure you have a 1/2" drive torque wrench which can accurately get up to 223 ft lbs and I think it's a 24mm socket for the loader mount bolts. I think those are the highest torque numbers you will have to reach installing the loader and make sure you torque them, don't just "tight enough" as 223 ft lbs is quite a bit of torque.......It's the main mounts on the side of the tractor which support the loader mount so you want it right.

    Make sure you also have some lock tite for the bolts.

    Other than that, I think you will find it's very straight forward.

    You will likely want some type of "cart" to move the loader around when it's off the tractor on a smooth hard surface (concrete floor, etc). I use these dollies from Harbor Fright, and they are $20 each and rated to 1,000 lbs per dollie.....You can also make a cart for the loader, but these work well and they are the right size for the bucket and the stand to store on. The smaller dollies from HF are a bit too small for the loader and can tend to scoot around under it, which you don't want.

    Make sure to put the cart under the loader stand in long wise, front to rear under the tractor as the cart needs to fit between the front tires on the 1025r to properly connect and disconnect the loader to the tractor.

    Many of us, if not most of us, have either this 120R or the H120 loaders on these 1 and 2 series machines, so feel free to ask any questions.
    kylew and Dr Kubar like this.

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    DOUGLASS's Avatar
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    Thanks Sulleybear. I'm thinking about getting the HF quick hitch also.

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    There have been reports of guys having loader buckets that do not end up even with the floor when they are raised an inch or so and they have either gone back to the dealers for adjustment or they had to mess with them themselves.

    There may be a little bit of play when the masts are loosely bolted to the tractor frame, and a tiny bit of deviation there could end up being an inch out at the bucket edge.

    My advice would be to lightly bolt up the masts and complete the installation.
    Check to be darn sure the rear tires are at the exact same inflation pressure and that you are on level surface.
    Raise the bucket slightly off the floor, this should apply torque to both loader mounting masts. Check to see if the bucket is level.
    I think I remember reading about one gentleman who checked out his crooked loader mounting masts and he had found that although they measured the same height off the floor that he could influence bucket level by moving the masts front to rear within their wiggle room of their frame holes.

    I wouldn't go to final torque on the mast to frame bolts until I was sure the bucket was level.

    Good luck and be sure to tell us how she came out.
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    DOUGLASS's Avatar
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    Btw,as a rule of thumb, how much ballast is adequate? For the most part I won't be doing anything terribly heavy with it. Just moving some fill dirt and gravel. I may pull some posts and move a fence. That's about it for this summer.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DOUGLASS View Post
    Btw,as a rule of thumb, how much ballast is adequate? For the most part I won't be doing anything terribly heavy with it. Just moving some fill dirt and gravel. I may pull some posts and move a fence. That's about it for this summer.
    Actually, hauling fill dirt and gravel is one of the heaviest loads you will put in a 1-series bucket.

    I recommend consulting the owner's manual that comes with the loader, it will have a table that lists the minimum recommended ballast.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    DOUGLASS's Avatar
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    Thanks Jeff. That sounds like a bit of knowledge the hard way ! The "Boss Lady" won't tolerate me screwing up her flower beds ! It will become a talking point if I can't seem to get this right!

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    DOUGLASS's Avatar
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    Thanks Jgayman . Will do.

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