Forks for Artillian Frame
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Thread: Forks for Artillian Frame

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    cashxx's Avatar
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    Forks for Artillian Frame

    Anyone know if these forks would work on an Artillian Frame for a JD 1025r? I know nothing about forks or anything. Are they all standard? I would imagine there are different sizes like cat0,1,2 on 3 point hitches?

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    Tractor Info: 2018 1025r (01/18/2019) / 120R FEL 53" Bucket / 260B BH with 16" Bucket / 60" MMM with AC / R4 Tires
    Upgrades: RimGuard in Rear Tires / 16" BackHoe Bucket / Engine Block Heater / JD Seat Cover / 3D Pedal Covers / 3D Diff Pedal / HH WT Bracket / 5' Rear Blade / CountyLine 4' RT4 Tiller / JD Ballast Box / HLA 36" Forks / RanchEx 3pt Quick Hitch / BXpanded 6", Ripper, BH Thumb, QA / LoadNGo /
    Planned Upgrades: Edge Tamers / Bolt-on Hooks / HH Rear Receiver Hitch Plate / HH Toothbar

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    Fork dimensions

    I think that's a class 3 fork based on the information here:
    https://store.intellaliftparts.com/FAQS.html

    Artillian probably states which class forks they use but I would bet on class 1 for compact/subcompact tractors.

    Treefarmer
    John Deere 790, 300 loader w Ken's Bolt on Hooks & Piranha tooth bar, grapple, back blade, box blade, Bush Hog mower, couple of red tractors, hay equipment, various old stuff some red, one orange, some I don't remember

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    Artillian lists their forks as "ITA Class II Type".

    So I guess the starting point would be figuring out the ITA Class Type for your forks.
    Superglidesport likes this.
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    2014 2032R tractor/H130 FEL w/Bolt-On Hooks/54" Snow Plow/iMatch Quick-Hitch/County Line 5' Scraper blade/County Line Carry-All/Artillian 42" Forks & QH Adapter/JD Ballast Box/Frontier SB1164 3PH Blower/Leinbach PHD/Wallenstien BX42 Chipper

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    cashxx's Avatar
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    Ahhh shoot. Looks like they won't work then! Was worth a shot! Thanks for the info!
    Tractor Info: 2018 1025r (01/18/2019) / 120R FEL 53" Bucket / 260B BH with 16" Bucket / 60" MMM with AC / R4 Tires
    Upgrades: RimGuard in Rear Tires / 16" BackHoe Bucket / Engine Block Heater / JD Seat Cover / 3D Pedal Covers / 3D Diff Pedal / HH WT Bracket / 5' Rear Blade / CountyLine 4' RT4 Tiller / JD Ballast Box / HLA 36" Forks / RanchEx 3pt Quick Hitch / BXpanded 6", Ripper, BH Thumb, QA / LoadNGo /
    Planned Upgrades: Edge Tamers / Bolt-on Hooks / HH Rear Receiver Hitch Plate / HH Toothbar

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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    Here is the info on the Artillian frames: Technical Information

    Those look super heavy, especially at 5” wide.
    Kenny

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    Boy ... At 5" x 42" ... because of the weight, they would be a struggle just trying to manhandle them onto the frame, I'm thinkin ...
    2013 - JD 1025r, 60" Auto Connect MMM, H120 FEL, 50" QA Loader Bucket, Home made Bucket Teeth, Titan QA loader fork back frame, Home made 66" Loader QA Snow Plow, Home made Land Plane. Home made loader QA Stump bucket. Home made loader boom pole attachment. Home made Landscape Rake. Modified HF Quick Hitch, Home made 3 point Ballast Box, Home made Debris Forks, Betsco BX42-S Wood Chipper, Woods 60" Back Blade, 72" Befco Finish Mower. 5' Bush Hog Mower. 1952 Ford 8N

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gwizz View Post
    Boy ... At 5" x 42" ... because of the weight, they would be a struggle just trying to manhandle them onto the frame, I'm thinkin ...
    You are right about that. I originally had a set of 4" x 42" Cascade tines for my Artillian frame and at around 80 lbs. they were a handful. I suspect these 5" tines would be over 100 lbs.

    However, there is a trick to installing tines without manually lifting them. It is used by forklift operators that have to manipulate heavy duty tines that weigh hundreds of pounds each.

    You slide both tines to the middle of the frame so they are in front of the cutout on the lower part of the frame. Then lay something like a 4x4 out in front of the fork frame about 2/3 of the way out the tine, perpendicular to the tines. You then lower the fork frame and the forks will unhook themselves from the lower support. As you continue to lower the fork frame it will detach from the top hook on the tine. The tines will stay upright sitting on the floor waiting for you to reattach them in reverse order. If your fork frame only has a narrow notch on the bottom you will have to unhook one tine at a time.

    I'm probably not explaining this correctly but I think you will get the idea.
    Tomfive, BigJim55 and Treefarmer like this.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    If your fork frame only has a narrow notch on the bottom you will have to unhook one tine at a time.

    I'm probably not explaining this correctly but I think you will get the idea.
    That was a good explanation!

    With a narrow notch, I used to unhook the first tine and slide it over a bit to one side while still hooked on the top. Then move the second tine to the notch, and use the same technique as you described. Gotta be careful because the tines will be a slightly different angle. If you want to match the angle, then unhook the bottom of the second tine as you did the first and slide over a bit in the opposite direction. Sliding the tines while still hooked to the top is a lot easier than muscling them off.

    Just my 2 lazy cents.
    jgayman and BigJim55 like this.
    Tom

    2011 1026R/R4's -- H120 FEL/49" -- 260 BH/12" -- Bro-Tek Ripper -- Artillian Forks/42" -- 244 lbs JD Rear Wheel Weights -- KBOH Hooks and Clevis' --
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    You are right!

    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    You are right about that. I originally had a set of 4" x 42" Cascade tines for my Artillian frame and at around 80 lbs. they were a handful. I suspect these 5" tines would be over 100 lbs.

    However, there is a trick to installing tines without manually lifting them. It is used by forklift operators that have to manipulate heavy duty tines that weigh hundreds of pounds each.

    You slide both tines to the middle of the frame so they are in front of the cutout on the lower part of the frame. Then lay something like a 4x4 out in front of the fork frame about 2/3 of the way out the tine, perpendicular to the tines. You then lower the fork frame and the forks will unhook themselves from the lower support. As you continue to lower the fork frame it will detach from the top hook on the tine. The tines will stay upright sitting on the floor waiting for you to reattach them in reverse order. If your fork frame only has a narrow notch on the bottom you will have to unhook one tine at a time.

    I'm probably not explaining this correctly but I think you will get the idea.
    You've explained it well and the technique works well unless you bump a tine and it falls over or, you have to drop the tines on a soft surface and . . . (drum roll) it falls over.

    Don't ask me how I know about those experiences. . . Let's just say sometimes my life doesn't go perfectly.

    Treefarmer
    mark02tj likes this.
    John Deere 790, 300 loader w Ken's Bolt on Hooks & Piranha tooth bar, grapple, back blade, box blade, Bush Hog mower, couple of red tractors, hay equipment, various old stuff some red, one orange, some I don't remember

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