Question for those that put PVC pipe on plow/blade cutting edges
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12
Like Tree11Likes

Thread: Question for those that put PVC pipe on plow/blade cutting edges

  1. Top | #1

    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Last Online
    06-25-2019 @ 09:01 PM
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    95
    Thanks
    38
    Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts

    Question for those that put PVC pipe on plow/blade cutting edges

    Hi All,

    What do you use to slit the pipe?
    What type of PVC pipe is best?
    I am thinking of 2" diameter to increase its ability to scrape snow and leave less behind. Thoughts on diameter? Again, this is a paved driveway.

    I have a 6ft rear blade (Tarter from Tractor Supply) that I have been using to scrape my paved driveway. I've thought of installing an UHMW plastic cutting edge to help save the driveway from scuffs and quiet it down when scraping. But I believe this would limit its ability to scrape ice, and I don't plan on swapping out plastic/steel cutting edges on a per storm basis.

    So I thought of PVC pipe. Easier to take on/off (I think) than a replacement edge.

    Thanks,
    Thumper
    2025R (Gen 1), 220 FEL with 53" bucket, Edge Tamers, Artillian 36" pallet forks, 72" County Line Rear Blade, 54" OnRamp MMM, 14bu MCS with powerflow, Ken's Bolt-On Hooks/Clevis combo, Heavy Hitch 2" receiver / double weight bracket, 16 suitcase weights.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. Top | #2

    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 10:17 PM
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    57
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 23 Times in 7 Posts
    I used schedule 80 1.5" pipe on the front edge of my 120r loader bucket. It is gray in color but labeled as PVC. Others have said PVC is brittle in the cold and ABS is the way to go. Cut the slit on my table saw, but ran drywall screws through the center diameter of the pipe in several places along the length to keep the pipe from collapsing and pinching the saw blade. I hammered it on over the bucket edge and it has held up over several plowings on my asphalt drive so far. I think it is probably time to flip it over before the bottom wears through.
    keane and JD4044M like this.
    RIKI - 2018 1025R FILB, warning light brush guards, block heater, aux rear work light, Ken's diff lock pedal
    120R FEL with 53" bucket, Ken's bolt on hooks, BXpanded Piranha toothbar
    260B BH with 16" bucket, BXpanded Quick-On Connector, BXpanded Talon Ripper
    54D MMM, autoconnect, mechanical lift
    HF quick hitch, Titan 36" pallet forks
    Alex - 1999 LX255, 42C deck with bagger

  4. Top | #3
    kylew's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Last Online
    Today @ 03:30 AM
    Location
    Grass Lk, Michigan
    Posts
    1,341
    Thanks
    229
    Thanked 294 Times in 245 Posts
    PVC pipe comes in different colors, generally to signify its listed use in the construction industry. I've seen blue, red, brown, white, & grey. Black is typically ABS. My experience with ABS is that it's rigid but brittle, especially when cold. White PVC is also rigid but I believe it can withstand cooler temps than ABS. Grey PVC is for electrical installations and is flexible compared to white PVC. We use it for underground wiring and usually only bury it about 2 feet deep. When the ground freezes and shifts, it's flexible enough to move with the ground without breaking. I know white PVC comes in schedule 20 & 40, not sure if any thicker. Grey comes in 40 & 80.

    To get back to your question, I would suggest 2". If you want a thicker pipe, get schedule 80 (what i would suggest). Grey 2" Schdl 80 should be available at an electrical supply house, or possibly Menards, Home Depot, etc.
    The reason I suggest 2"....I put a pipe on the edge of my blade, but used RMC ([electrical] Rigid Metalic Conduit), but my plowing is on gravel & grass, not asphalt and little concrete. IIRC, I cut a 1-1/6" to 1-1/8" slot, which allows the pipe to have a "friction fit". The 2" diameter allows the pipe to go up high enough, above the nuts on the back that hold the factory (black) cutting edge to the blade. Being above the nuts keeps the pipe from coming off vertically. I cut the pipe I think 3" longer than the blade, to put bolts through the ends to keep the pipe from coming off horizontally.
    To cut it, I used a sawzall. I laid out the cut lines with a chalk line, rachet strapped the pipe to sawhorses and cut the slot. Cleaned up the slot with a grinder until the pipe slid on with a little help from a hammer.

    I'm on my second season with this pipe, and will have to flip it around for next season, due to the wear on the bottom. Hope to get 2 more seasons out of it.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20180328_164915.jpg 
Views:	7 
Size:	3.77 MB 
ID:	673574

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20180111_181610.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	3.80 MB 
ID:	673576
    🌠Back in my day we had 9 planets🌠

    2014 1025R TLB
    60D AutoConnect Mower●H120 Loader●260 Backhoe●BB2048 Box Blade●RB2060L Back Blade●RC2048 Rotary Cutter●JD 60" Quick Hitch Plow Blade●Ken's Bolt-on Hooks●Ken's Diff Pedal●Ken's I-Match Hook●Ken's Backhoe Steps●Titan 42" Forks w/Headache Rack●Titan Ballast Box●Titan Toothbar w/23WTL Tiger Teeth●3" Edge Tamers●BXpanded 6" Bucket, Ripper & Bucket Quick Change●This & That Mods●Other Stuff I Forgot About●

    The Mrs. has 2014 X360

  5. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. Top | #4

    Join Date
    May 2018
    Last Online
    Today @ 09:00 AM
    Location
    Rexton NB Canada
    Posts
    520
    Thanks
    137
    Thanked 38 Times in 37 Posts
    What are you plowing with that pipe over the blade?

    Quote Originally Posted by kylew View Post

    I'm on my second season with this pipe, and will have to flip it around for next season, due to the wear on the bottom. Hope to get 2 more seasons out of it.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20180328_164915.jpg 
Views:	7 
Size:	3.77 MB 
ID:	673574

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20180111_181610.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	3.80 MB 
ID:	673576
    JD4044M likes this.
    Auguste . . . a blue collar guy working in a white collar world
    Rexton, New Brunswick, Canada

    1025r Tractor aka Bucky ~ New in April 2018 ~ 225 hours to date, about 13 hours per month - - - no lawn cutting

    Accessories ~ Front End Loader ~ Backhoe ~ Mid-Mounter Mower ~ Box Blade ~ Forks ~ Roto Tiller ~ Chipper ~ Mulch Kit ~ Sub-soil Conditioner ~ Ballast Box ~ Plug Aerator ~ DeThatcher ~ iMatch Quick Hitch ~ Landscape rake

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to Auguste For This Useful Post:

    Rogero246 (02-23-2019)

  8. Top | #5
    kylew's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Last Online
    Today @ 03:30 AM
    Location
    Grass Lk, Michigan
    Posts
    1,341
    Thanks
    229
    Thanked 294 Times in 245 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Auguste View Post
    What are you plowing with that pipe over the blade?
    Snow on a gravel private road, up to 6 gravel drives with concrete approaches, and parts of my yard. I backdrag the approaches with the exception of my barn. Since the tractor is in the barn, I can drive forward in float, clean, backup, reposition and do another section. It won't clean the concrete 'squeaky clean' but it also doesn't harm the concrete. My 'drive' to the barn is my yard, about 150 feet. I plow that in float and it works well without tearing up the grass. Off that, I also do about another 120 ft to make a path from the barn to the house through the yard, to make a 'circle drive'. The drive of the house itself is about 80 ft of gravel, the road is over 1/4 mile of gravel, and one of my neighbors gravel drive is about 400 ft. Hope that gives you an idea.

    PS. I plow everything in float and only use 'non-float' if I encounter a section where I lose steering. That usually only happens if there is ice under the snow.
    Last edited by kylew; 02-23-2019 at 11:17 AM. Reason: Added PS
    JD4044M likes this.
    🌠Back in my day we had 9 planets🌠

    2014 1025R TLB
    60D AutoConnect Mower●H120 Loader●260 Backhoe●BB2048 Box Blade●RB2060L Back Blade●RC2048 Rotary Cutter●JD 60" Quick Hitch Plow Blade●Ken's Bolt-on Hooks●Ken's Diff Pedal●Ken's I-Match Hook●Ken's Backhoe Steps●Titan 42" Forks w/Headache Rack●Titan Ballast Box●Titan Toothbar w/23WTL Tiger Teeth●3" Edge Tamers●BXpanded 6" Bucket, Ripper & Bucket Quick Change●This & That Mods●Other Stuff I Forgot About●

    The Mrs. has 2014 X360

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to kylew For This Useful Post:

    Auguste (02-23-2019)

  10. Top | #6

    Join Date
    May 2018
    Last Online
    Today @ 09:00 AM
    Location
    Rexton NB Canada
    Posts
    520
    Thanks
    137
    Thanked 38 Times in 37 Posts
    Thank you for the explanation. Appreciated

    Auguste

    Quote Originally Posted by kylew View Post
    Snow on a gravel private road, up to 6 gravel drives with concrete approaches, and parts of my yard. I backdrag the approaches with the exception of my barn. Since the tractor is in the barn, I can drive forward in float, clean, backup, reposition and do another section. It won't clean the concrete 'squeaky clean' but it also doesn't harm the concrete. My 'drive' to the barn is my yard, about 150 feet. I plow that in float and it works well without tearing up the grass. Off that, I also do about another 120 ft to make a path from the barn to the house through the yard, to make a 'circle drive'. The drive of the house itself is about 80 ft of gravel, the road is over 1/4 mile of gravel, and one of my neighbors gravel drive is about 400 ft. Hope that gives you an idea.

    PS. I plow everything in float and only use 'non-float' if I encounter a section where I lose steering. That usually only happens if there is ice under the snow.
    Auguste . . . a blue collar guy working in a white collar world
    Rexton, New Brunswick, Canada

    1025r Tractor aka Bucky ~ New in April 2018 ~ 225 hours to date, about 13 hours per month - - - no lawn cutting

    Accessories ~ Front End Loader ~ Backhoe ~ Mid-Mounter Mower ~ Box Blade ~ Forks ~ Roto Tiller ~ Chipper ~ Mulch Kit ~ Sub-soil Conditioner ~ Ballast Box ~ Plug Aerator ~ DeThatcher ~ iMatch Quick Hitch ~ Landscape rake

  11. Top | #7

    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 11:19 AM
    Location
    IL.
    Posts
    434
    Thanks
    9
    Thanked 50 Times in 48 Posts
    Rubber is better .

  12. Top | #8

    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Last Online
    06-25-2019 @ 09:01 PM
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    95
    Thanks
    38
    Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
    Thanks for all the suggestions and input.

    I am trying a piece of 1" rigid plastic conduit that I forgot I had. It took a lot to hammer it on so I think it will stay. It also seems to 'scrape' pretty well and doesn't scuff the driveway.

    We'll see how it goes the next time I have to use it.

    Thanks again for all the input guys.

    Thumper
    JD4044M likes this.
    2025R (Gen 1), 220 FEL with 53" bucket, Edge Tamers, Artillian 36" pallet forks, 72" County Line Rear Blade, 54" OnRamp MMM, 14bu MCS with powerflow, Ken's Bolt-On Hooks/Clevis combo, Heavy Hitch 2" receiver / double weight bracket, 16 suitcase weights.

  13. Top | #9

    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 07:35 PM
    Location
    West Michigan
    Posts
    1,956
    Thanks
    95
    Thanked 222 Times in 177 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by ThumperACC View Post
    Hi All,

    What do you use to slit the pipe?
    What type of PVC pipe is best?
    I am thinking of 2" diameter to increase its ability to scrape snow and leave less behind. Thoughts on diameter? Again, this is a paved driveway.

    I have a 6ft rear blade (Tarter from Tractor Supply) that I have been using to scrape my paved driveway. I've thought of installing an UHMW plastic cutting edge to help save the driveway from scuffs and quiet it down when scraping. But I believe this would limit its ability to scrape ice, and I don't plan on swapping out plastic/steel cutting edges on a per storm basis.
    So I thought of PVC pipe. Easier to take on/off (I think) than a replacement edge.

    Thanks,
    Thumper
    If you have any concerns about the ability to scrape packed snow and ice from a paved (concrete or asphalt) surface then a pipe blade guard ( ABS, PVC, etc.) is not for you. Your likely to rip or pull off the pipe or break it trying to scrape. These types of covers for the blades are MEANT TO FLOAT over gravel and sod and not disturb rocks or dig into the grass. They skim the surface and leave a layer of snow/ice behind as a sacrifice to avoid digging up the drive or the lawn. They will not clean very well at all.

    Now as for you questions-
    1-circular saw
    2-no PVC is not, lots of folks can get ABS and they like that much better. If you can find it HDPE utility conduit in SRD11 (1/2”) thickness is the best-I’ve used it for years and I cannot hurt the stuff. I use 3” on a gravel drive and to push snow back onto grass.

    3-2” might improve your scraping an infinitesimal amount but it’s still going to float, you don’t have enough weight or downforce to cut thru snow and ice with a 2” piece of pipe to do any effective scraping

    IMHO you want to scrape and have a paved drive-go UHMW or maybe rubber-skip a round pipe guard.
    Last edited by balrog006; 02-24-2019 at 10:15 AM.
    JD4044M likes this.
    2004-L130

    2013-2032r, Curtis Hard side cab (project), H130 FEL & 61"bucket, Artillian Modular Grapple on HD frame with Diverter, 2300# Artillian frame w/ 36" x 3" tines, 46BH 9" & 13" bucket, Frontier RB1060, HLA 1000 series 60" JDQA Snow plow, JD ballast box, RK QH, Homemade 3pt multi purpose hitch, 117W of extra LED lights on ROPS and side Brush guards, Ken's bolt on hooks-3x, Ideal Knife grooved R-4's.

  14. Top | #10
    ddinham's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Last Online
    Today @ 09:36 AM
    Location
    Eastern Kansas
    Posts
    3,669
    Thanks
    167
    Thanked 506 Times in 389 Posts
    I gave up on the ABS pipe on my 8ft rear blade. It has never lasted past one clearing of snow. I only use it for clearing gravel as I have no pavement. I went with 16 inch disk blades welded onto my 4 inch skid shoes that leaves about 1 inch of snow, but the blade does not touch the gravel. When using the front bucket, I tilt the bucket enough that it rides on the back of the bucket, but the front edge is raised a little and does not make contact with the ground.

    Dave


    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20190221_162735.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	1.17 MB 
ID:	673724
    JD 4066R CAB
    JD H180 FEL with SSQA brackets, JD iMatch, JD Ballast Box & ext, JD pull behind seed spreader
    Frontier RB2196H 8 ft rear blade/hyd angle, Frontier BB1065 Box Blade, Befco 3pt 110 inch RFM
    48" pallet forks, KK 3pt Boom Pole, Northern Tool 3pt middle buster, 2 bottom Dearborn plow
    County Line post hole digger, Rhino 3pt 10ft brush hog, Land Pride 8ft rock rake
    Fit Rite Hydraulics 3pt Top Link, front 3pt adapter for SSQA, 7 1/2 ft Field Roller, 8ft Dearborn tandem disk

  15. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Using pvc pipe as a bucket wear edge
    By MowJoe in forum Implements & Attachments
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 02-02-2018, 03:46 PM
  2. Using pvc pipe as a bucket wear edge
    By MowJoe in forum Sub Compact Utility Tractors (SCUT)
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 01-31-2018, 08:28 PM
  3. A question for those with both the snow blower and blade..
    By ErikR in forum Implements & Attachments
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 12-15-2016, 01:50 PM
  4. Help with new Gator Blades on 54D deck - Blade Edges Touching
    By GADeereHunter in forum Sub Compact Utility Tractors (SCUT)
    Replies: 29
    Last Post: 01-11-2014, 07:55 PM
  5. ballast box PVC pipe for tool carriers
    By andy b. in forum Implements & Attachments
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 04-27-2012, 08:29 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •