Filling pot holes in gravel drive
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    xhere's Avatar
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    Filling pot holes in gravel drive

    I have about 200 yards of gravel before I get to the highway, this is a private drive and has some pot holes that continually develop in the same areas.
    I'm looking for suggestions as what piece of equipment (size and brand) would work best to grade and level the pot holes.
    I have 2025R, thanks

    Greg


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    Last edited by xhere; 03-08-2015 at 03:33 PM.
    2025R, 63 MMM, FEL, Ballast Box

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    felixm22's Avatar
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    I don't have any advise from personal experience but you can check out this road manual.
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    Last edited by felixm22; 03-08-2015 at 03:50 PM.
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    You have to keep your driveway with a good crown on it.
    Can't have any water standing and drive through it. That's what causes potholes.
    My driveway is close to a 1/4 mile long and gravel.
    I have been thinking of getting the Frontier 60" land plane myself.
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    Box blade.
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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    xhere's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blue87fj60 View Post
    You have to keep your driveway with a good crown on it.
    Can't have any water standing and drive through it. That's what causes potholes.
    My driveway is close to a 1/4 mile long and gravel.
    I have been thinking of getting the Frontier 60" land plane myself.
    I think you hit the nail on the head, no crown! Probably take a road grader or something similar to get get a proper crown.


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    Quote Originally Posted by xhere View Post
    I think you hit the nail on the head, no crown! Probably take a road grader or something similar to get get a proper crown.


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    Deere makes graders too! Son was checking one out at JD Commons in downtown Moline Friday note. $400,000 should get you a new entry level machine. Add $50,000 for laser grading capability and fwa.

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    Scotty370's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by POWERSTROKE View Post
    Deere makes graders too! Son was checking one out at JD Commons in downtown Moline Friday note. $400,000 should get you a new entry level machine. Add $50,000 for laser grading capability and fwa.
    Wow! And I thought I was good at spending other people's money!!!

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    Not too familiar with what can be found to fit the compact tractors -- but we maintained quite a bit of gravel driveway and parking area with just a 322. As mentioned above, proper crown is essential, as is driving slowly and varying your path so your wheels do not form a pronounced 'track' of wear (commonly known as ruts...) This driving over the entire surface given the multiple trips you make also tends to pack the gravel down firmly.

    My strong preference for working gravel is a center blade. Here is why, using a woodworking analogy: a front blade is much like a chisel, and as you drive the wheels of the tractor over ripples and ruts the motion is magnified by the blade overhanging the wheelbase. Even with float this is still an issue, unless you are backdragging a blade or the flat of a FEL bucket (I did this with my Johnny Bucket SR -- an improvement over the front blade on float, but not ideal.) A rear box blade is very useful if you need to move material a long way, but its action is like a woodworkers draw knife and still very technique intensive to get good results. A center blade is much more like a woodworking plane, and even with the short wheel base of a garden tractor made for easier use by both my wife and I on our gravel paved areas. Deere used to make a small center blade called the 54C for the 140 and similar GT series machines, but they are a bit hard to find -- so I made my own by cutting down a front blade and adding width extensions and a new, wider cutting edge.

    140-54C_Center_Blade_Installation.pdf Click image for larger version. 

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    Adding/keeping a crown with such a simple blade mount consists of working from the driveway edges toward the center in successive passes, with the blade angled such that the excess material is always deposited 'inboard' of your passes toward the center of the drive.

    There are 6-way center blades made by Grouser that look to be the hot set-up for small tractors, perhaps even down to SCUT / CUT size -- here is a drawing:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    A last comment: If you want to use a landscape rake you WILL need trailing wheels like those found on York Rakes to do a good job as this puts the working edge (in this case the tines) BETWEEN two supporting members and essentially acts as a plane just like the center blade -- reducing surface irregularities with each pass. Box blades with trailing wheels and true land planes also work well, of course.

    Just my 2 cents and my limited experience -- your situation(s) may call for different approaches...

    Chuck
    Last edited by Chuckv; 03-08-2015 at 05:29 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by POWERSTROKE View Post
    Deere makes graders too! Son was checking one out at JD Commons in downtown Moline Friday note. $400,000 should get you a new entry level machine. Add $50,000 for laser grading capability and fwa.
    I'm guessing a tad more than he was thinking about spending.
    xhere likes this.
    Gene

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