Copper Ridge Attachments
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Thread: Copper Ridge Attachments

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    Manomet's Avatar
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    Copper Ridge Attachments

    Does anyone have experience with this company? I want to by a plug aerator, have had mixed results with the variety of tow behind models available. They make this one, Copper Ridge Plug Aerator - 708649, ATV Implements at Sportsman's Guide
    which is priced right for me. Looks beefy, read one bad review where the axle bent. Has anyone bough their products? If so how did it go? Thanks for your help.
    2009 2520 200cx loader 46 Back Hoe 403 Rotary Cutter Artillian forks + 54" Snowblower
    1995 455 w/60" deck

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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    I don't see a place for adding weight to it and I doubt it will be heavy enough on it's own at 85lbs.
    Keith

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    The price sure is hard to beat. Here are my thoughts when looking at the unit.

    1. - It doesn't look like the carrier bearings can be greased so when you clean the aerator when done, make sure to get the water out of the bearings or its going to be trouble down the road.

    2. - Haven't used the brand or seen it before. But as a tow behind unit, its going to be engaged all of the time and that means likely bent spoons when turning, etc. so make sure you can get spare parts easily.

    3. - Also, perhaps its just the size of the spoon mounts, but most core aerators I have used have 5 or 6 spoons per spoon wheel, so the plugs are about 6" or so apart when done. With 4 spoons on a core wheel, you might end up going over the same area a couple of times to get it cored as you desire. That's more tractor seat time, which isn't bad thing, but with a tow behind, you have to keep turning around and that means possibly areas where the cores are going to be very heavy and ripped out sideways, verses straight plugs.

    4. - Even with my Frontier aerator, I usually have to hang anywhere from 2 to 4 suitcase weights on the aerator otherwise they will just largely walk across the surface unless the ground is moist and even then, without extra weight, the cores aren't full depth. I am not sure how easily you can hang weight on this as there isn't much of a perimeter frame on the spoon area. You may have to add something to allow you to hang weight on it when needed, which is more often than I would have thought with my aerator which weighs 400 pounds plus.

    5. - If you are mounting it on a 3 point so you can lift it, then crossing areas where you don't want it down will be easier. If its a true tow behind, not being able to pick it up and over sidewalks, sprinkler heads, utility cables, driveways and many other objects is going to be much tougher without some type of wheel kit. You encounter more areas where you don't want to core than it would seem with a typical lawn.

    6. - At 60" wide, its going to be hard to get it close to landscape areas, flower beds, tree groups which have contoured edges. Usually, I back up to such areas and drop the aerator and work away from them as too much turning with the aerator down will rip out plugs and damage the lawn plus bend spoons.........

    Just my observations from having used a core aerator on probably 3 dozen or more different lawns.
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    Manomet's Avatar
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    Adding weight looks easy. Thanks for your comments SullyBear. I am hoping to hear from those with Copper Ridge experience. Adding a center bearing looks to be needed and if you look at the wheels the spoons mount to it looks like they have options for increasing the number of spoons. I am specifically interested in this because it is NOT a tow behind.
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    Need weight

    You will need to add weight to get the penetration needed.
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    SRG
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    Titan Drum Spike Aerator | 3-Point | 5 Ft

    What would be the benefit of coring, vs something like that? (just curious, i have never aerated a lawn before)
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    1997 JD 870 (28hp Yanmar), FWA, R1's, 300x loader, 61" bucket, 42" Titan forks, Pat's Easy Change.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRG View Post
    Titan Drum Spike Aerator | 3-Point | 5 Ft

    What would be the benefit of coring, vs something like that? (just curious, i have never aerated a lawn before)
    Coring removes a "plug" of soil, allowing:
    a) water and nutrients (and seed if overseeding) to get down to the roots of the lawn, so it is more useable.
    b) Soil and roots to expand out to fill the void, reducing the affects of compaction
    c) breaks up the thatch layer, aiding in water and nutrient absorption
    d) Brings soil to the surface (in the plugs) to help increase the breakdown of the thatch.

    Spike aeration only does A, and can actually increase compaction, as it is forcing the soil down and out to create the hole vs. removing a plug.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SRG View Post
    Titan Drum Spike Aerator | 3-Point | 5 Ft

    What would be the benefit of coring, vs something like that? (just curious, i have never aerated a lawn before)
    Those Type of aerators give me Nightmares such as tripping and Falling on it when Hooking it Up
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutty72 View Post
    Coring removes a "plug" of soil, allowing:
    a) water and nutrients (and seed if over seeding) to get down to the roots of the lawn, so it is more usable.
    b) Soil and roots to expand out to fill the void, reducing the affects of compaction
    c) breaks up the thatch layer, aiding in water and nutrient absorption
    d) Brings soil to the surface (in the plugs) to help increase the breakdown of the thatch.

    Spike aeration only does A, and can actually increase compaction, as it is forcing the soil down and out to create the hole vs. removing a plug.
    The spike holes tend to close very quickly as the spike is withdrawn when the wheel rotates over the area. The spike indentations are too small to actually get fertilizer granules, seed and other applications down into the ground and off the surface.

    It's somewhat like driving a nail into a piece of rubber verses drilling a hole. The hole creates real access for other objects to get through the material, where the nail, when pulled, has actually largely temporarily forced material aside to penetrate the surface and the material (ground in the case of aerators) expands back where it previously was once the penetrating object is withdrawn.

    As Cutty 72 very accurately points out, the compaction is very counterproductive in most established lawns other than to help smooth the surface so the ride while mowing is better. It does make sense to "roll" the lawn when its a new application to help settle the top soil and it's also helpful after new planting to help retain the seed position. But rolling established lawns which are relatively smooth and don't need to have bumps "ironed out" can be counter productive in many ways.
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    SRG
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    Points well taken, thank ya's


    1997 JD 870 (28hp Yanmar), FWA, R1's, 300x loader, 61" bucket, 42" Titan forks, Pat's Easy Change.
    [72" KK box blade, 72" KK landscape rake, 72" Titan pine straw rake, 72" Express Steel snow pusher{XP24}, 60" KK tiller, 60" rotary cutter, middle buster, boom pole]
    2004 JD 797 (29hp Kawasaki) Z-Trak, 72" 7-Iron deck, Mulch blades, Carlisle AT101's.
    Stihl: MS250C/18", FS70R, HS45/18".

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