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    Land plane question ...

    I'm looking to buy or build a land plane to use with my 1025r ... Need to know what size plane this tractor can handle.
    The implement dealer I talked to said I should go with a 4' wide plane. He said the tractor was too small to handle anything larger ... Is he right? or could I go with a 5' wide plane?

    G
    Last edited by Gwizz; 06-01-2019 at 10:23 AM.
    2013 - JD 1025r, 60" Auto Connect MMM, H120 FEL, 50" QA Loader Bucket, Home made Bucket Teeth, Titan QA loader fork back frame, Home made 66" Loader QA Snow Plow, Home made Land Plane. Home made loader QA Stump bucket. Home made loader boom pole attachment. Home made Landscape Rake. Modified HF Quick Hitch, Home made 3 point Ballast Box, Home made Debris Forks, Betsco BX42-S Wood Chipper, Woods 60" Back Blade, 72" Befco Finish Mower. 5' Bush Hog Mower. 1952 Ford 8N

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    Went through similar process in Mar. Mine have just arrived at the freight terminal. HTH

    https://www.greentractortalk.com/for...ml#post3211678

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    Dr Maphesto's Avatar
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    Whoops, thought this was about landing a plane.
    My bad.

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    blue87fj60's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gwizz View Post
    I'm looking to buy or build a land plane to use with my 1025r ... Need to know what size plane this tractor can handle.
    The implement dealer I talked to said I should go with a 4' wide plane. He said the tractor was too small to handle anything larger ... Is he right? or could I go with a 5' wide plane?

    G
    I bought a 60" Frontier LP.
    I wish i bought a 48".
    It will pull the 60" fine on hard compacted stone blend. When i tried it in newly spread material it would bog down and almost stop. Granted you can use three point arms to hold a higher position but in float it was hard on 1025R.
    rtgt, BigJim55, SulleyBear and 1 others like this.
    Joe
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    1025R FILB, SB1148, BB2048, Ken's Hooks and Hitch, 36" Artillian forks, JD/Artillian 54" Plow and counting...
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    Actually my thoughts were to build a land plane that was as at least as wide as the outside tire tread on the tractor so it would cover the tire marks …
    With the 1 1/4" wheel spacers I have on the axle, the outside tread width is 51" ...
    So I was thinkin of making the land plane 52" wide … Anyone see this causing any problems ?
    Last edited by Gwizz; 06-02-2019 at 04:30 PM.
    2013 - JD 1025r, 60" Auto Connect MMM, H120 FEL, 50" QA Loader Bucket, Home made Bucket Teeth, Titan QA loader fork back frame, Home made 66" Loader QA Snow Plow, Home made Land Plane. Home made loader QA Stump bucket. Home made loader boom pole attachment. Home made Landscape Rake. Modified HF Quick Hitch, Home made 3 point Ballast Box, Home made Debris Forks, Betsco BX42-S Wood Chipper, Woods 60" Back Blade, 72" Befco Finish Mower. 5' Bush Hog Mower. 1952 Ford 8N

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    I vote fabricate,,,

    https://www.greentractortalk.com/for...landplane.html

    Go find some REAL stout cutting edge replacements,, then, let that dictate the width.

    Wheel track is meaningless,, you are not mowing grass. For this use, the tractor should not be "sinking into" the driveway.
    So, if you find 8 foot cutting edges, then cut in half,, the landplane will end up slightly under 4 feet wide, if the blades are angled.

    As far as size,, I hooked my 7 foot landplane to my 41HP JD 4105,,



    I think it would work, if I were only required to spread some gravel,,
    it would NEVER do any "landplaning",,,

    So, this 7 foot landplane REALLY needs to be behind my 10,000 pound tractor.

    If you look close, you will notice I only have one blade,, I never got around to adding the second one,, it is laying outside the shop rusting,,
    Even with only one blade,, this landplane still gives both of my tractors fits,,
    Think about trying one blade,, before adding the second.

    Many people suffer with a landplane that will "float" rather than dig in.. dual blades cuts the weight per foot of blade in half.
    Low weight per foot of blade,, less capability to dig into the surface being worked.

    My blades are 7 feet long, and then they are angled,, my tractor is just over 7 feet wide,,

    Some of the tractors include JD 4105, JD 855, JD 650,,,, and,,, the IH 584 4WD
    My favorite attachment is the homemade landplane,,, EVERYONE needs one of those!!

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    OK guys … Next question …
    Should I go with angled cutter bars or straight cutter bars on the land plane ? Does it really make a difference? …

    G
    SulleyBear likes this.
    2013 - JD 1025r, 60" Auto Connect MMM, H120 FEL, 50" QA Loader Bucket, Home made Bucket Teeth, Titan QA loader fork back frame, Home made 66" Loader QA Snow Plow, Home made Land Plane. Home made loader QA Stump bucket. Home made loader boom pole attachment. Home made Landscape Rake. Modified HF Quick Hitch, Home made 3 point Ballast Box, Home made Debris Forks, Betsco BX42-S Wood Chipper, Woods 60" Back Blade, 72" Befco Finish Mower. 5' Bush Hog Mower. 1952 Ford 8N

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    sennister's Avatar
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    Just throwing out another thing to consider. The heavier the attachment, the more you may need front ballast. I haven't used a land plane but my box grader (more so when it gets too full) will lift my front wheels when I pick it up to where it is hard or impossible to steer. Granted front ballast can be as easy as carrying around some dirt in a FEL. When it is down in float it isn't as big of a deal.

    As far as straight or angled. Personally I would think angled would work better.
    rtgt and SulleyBear like this.


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    Quote Originally Posted by sennister View Post
    As far as straight or angled. Personally I would think angled would work better.
    Agreed....

    Too narrow a land plane and more tractor passes required on the same surface (no big deal, just more seat time and a little more fuel)

    Too wide a land plane and you struggle to make forward progress fighting the machine digging in and stopping you completely. That is very frustrating and also when the tractor is bogged down, you might spin and loosen up material in the tire tracks but not across the entire cutting edge.

    Depending upon what you are planing, you might want to create the crown in the center, which would be helpful with the blade angled in that direction. Flat or square (side to side) and it primarily transfers material from high points to holes or low points and the plane might "skip over" the areas you are trying to plane.....or plain. Its basically a box blade at that point.

    I also like the advice about a single blade as it would seem easier to control the actual material with one blade verses two parallel ones. You can always add another blade if needed.

    If you have the cutting edge angled to push material to the right, you are going to have to run down the left side of the driveway to transfer material from the edges back to the center. Maintaining the desired width would seem to be easier with the material being pulled from the outside edges to the center, verses the other direction. I suppose you could design the land plane to allow you to pivot the cutting edge in the center but you would have to lift the entire implement to do this which would also seem to complicate the building of it, verses having the cutting edge in one specific direction.

    One other idea......Down force beyond just gravity could be handy, but that could require a hydraulic top link. Otherwise, you can hang suitcase weights on the land plane, so design the perimeter frame and even in the very center, a way to easily and securely hang the suitcase weights so they won't move or fall off.

    SO much depends upon what you are planning to plane or plain......if its very compacted material, the extra ballast or down force could almost be required where if its soft or loose material, the down force or weight likely won't be as crucial. Plus, the surfaces are going to vary when used on different projects.

    Pictures are required.......
    rtgt and CADplans like this.

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    The problem I can foresee with making my land plane with angled cutters, is my driveway is all one long up hill grade. If I make the plane with angled cutters I'd need to go down one side (lets say left side) every time to bring gravel to the center to crown it and back up the other side (right side) every time to do the same on the other side of the drive. I'd always need to go in the same way. Going down hill would be no problem but coming back up I think would be a very hard pull, and every trip going up would be on the same side of the driveway...
    I'm thinking with straight cutters it wouldn't make any difference which way I went up or down and I can switch sides or directions without the plane trying to pull dirt to one side. I thinking I could pull gravel to the center of the driveway to crown it by adjusting the length of one of the three point arms. to tilt the plane some.

    Does this make sense? …
    2013 - JD 1025r, 60" Auto Connect MMM, H120 FEL, 50" QA Loader Bucket, Home made Bucket Teeth, Titan QA loader fork back frame, Home made 66" Loader QA Snow Plow, Home made Land Plane. Home made loader QA Stump bucket. Home made loader boom pole attachment. Home made Landscape Rake. Modified HF Quick Hitch, Home made 3 point Ballast Box, Home made Debris Forks, Betsco BX42-S Wood Chipper, Woods 60" Back Blade, 72" Befco Finish Mower. 5' Bush Hog Mower. 1952 Ford 8N

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