To Be, or not To Be .. Home Built loader on a 1023e?
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    BWV
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    To Be, or not To Be .. Home Built loader on a 1023e?

    I have a loader that I built for my 318 in 2012, I'd like to convert it for use on my new 1023e



    I have used it, mounted to the stock front implement mounting points on my 318 since 2012 on countless projects (from digging landscape stuff, to spreading 22yards of gravel on my 200+ ft long driveway).

    I wont say nothing has broken... but I will say age, mowing 2.5 acres twice a week, and snow-blowing in upstate NY were more likely causes than the loader. (the steering cylinder bracket pulled off the frame... mowing and blowing see a lot of "lock to lock" action.. loading, I am very careful not to go to the locks when loaded)
    I will say nothing has broken while using the loader, and I do not believe it has caused breakage nor undue wear.

    Some might think that I overworked the 318.. My bucket weighs almost 3/5ths (313lb) of the "made for this tractor" Deere 44 loader(500lb), the tractor to bucket load moment is not much further off the front axle(unlike some "loaders" i've seen for sale..wow..), the bucket is smaller capacity and it only lifts to 44 inches.

    I did add a 3rd spool, because using a shutoff valve on the rear 3point/mower lift to try and differentiate was a joke and exercise in futility... this is part of why I went 1023e instead of X700s series (no third spool...lighter frame)

    I have picked up 700+lbs with it, and it weighs 313lbs by itself. (I did this once, ballasted by my landscape rake)

    I am selling the 318, but, as I really don't need any more height nor bucket capacity than what my loader can already do (and..I built it.. so I am emotionally attached to it)... I'd like to use it on my 1023e.

    I've no issue with my fabrication skills...every part of this loader, including the bucket and tooth bar, was built from common steel tubing and flat metal.
    The only thing I did not build, were the hydraulic cylinders and hose fittings (I even pressed the hose ends on)

    I can cut out and reconfigure the mount easily... My thought, is to get an extra LVA22590 and build off of that.
    (it's the plate that's in the BLV10796 front quick hitch adapter kit ($273).. cheaper than the part alone($450)..odd.. )

    I'll see how heavy duty that plate is when my tractor arrives (hopefully this week) and decide.

    My question is.. has anyone done any custom mounting of "non standard" implements to the front of the 1023e, 1025r, or 1026 frame?

    I see companies like heavy hitch building weight brackets claiming capacity for 8)70lb weights(560lbs) hanging of the quick attach mounts. The 1023e frame looks considerably heavier than the 318 frame(the X700 series did not)... the only concern I have is the distance between my mounting pins.. the quick attach pins are close together.

    I will have to be careful of the cylinder force... the 3" cylinders running on the 950psi 318 Deere system, will behave differently on the 1023e's 2000+ psi

    My sales guy at Deere says the weight, if it worked fine on my 318, wont hurt the 1023e at all, nor void any warranties as long as I don't alter the tractor itself... but (of course..) they wont be responsible if it doesn't fit right and hits the grill or something, or if I exceed the front axle weight capacity(1349lbs continuous)
    The 120R, for this tractor, that weighs 625lbs can lift 800lbs at the pins...no worries there.

    Please share any thoughts or ideas.

    The one idea that I am guessing most will offer... Sell it, then add $1000-1500 more cash to buy the one that fits(the D120 is ~$2600 quoted), is already being considered.
    Thanks!!
    jdforever, keane and JD4044M like this.
    "No problem can be solved by the same kind of thinking that created it." Albert Einstein

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    BWV
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    On the 1023, part (4) that I want to use as my base, slides into bracket (2)
    The pin distance looks pretty close together, but the metal looks twice as thick (I'll know more when its in my hands)

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I might build a bracket that reaches further back on the 1023 frame to spread the load.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    On my 318, the pins are 7.6" apart

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    SulleyBear, Herminator and JD4044M like this.
    "No problem can be solved by the same kind of thinking that created it." Albert Einstein

    1023e
    R3 turf tires
    54" AutoConnect Deck
    54" SnowBlower
    60" $152 DIY Push Blade (was Warn)
    RimGuard loaded rears + 50lb plastic weights
    LandPride RB0560 60" Back Blade
    72" DIY rake w/guide wheels (uses RB0560 frame..one nut swap)
    48" Taylor Pittsburgh 233 series CUT Rotary Cutter
    LED Work lights and 3pt area lighting
    D120 Loader with DIY Toothbar
    Cyclone Rake Classic w/Duals and Power Vacuum

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    Quote Originally Posted by BWV View Post
    I have a loader that I built for my 318 in 2012, I'd like to convert it for use on my new 1023e



    I have used it, mounted to the stock front implement mounting points on my 318 since 2012 on countless projects (from digging landscape stuff, to spreading 22yards of gravel on my 200+ ft long driveway).

    I wont say nothing has broken... but I will say age, mowing 2.5 acres twice a week, and snow-blowing in upstate NY were more likely causes than the loader. (the steering cylinder bracket pulled off the frame... mowing and blowing see a lot of "lock to lock" action.. loading, I am very careful not to go to the locks when loaded)
    I will say nothing has broken while using the loader, and I do not believe it has caused breakage nor undue wear.

    Some might think that I overworked the 318.. My bucket weighs almost 3/5ths (313lb) of the "made for this tractor" Deere 44 loader(500lb), the tractor to bucket load moment is not much further off the front axle(unlike some "loaders" i've seen for sale..wow..), the bucket is smaller capacity and it only lifts to 44 inches.

    I did add a 3rd spool, because using a shutoff valve on the rear 3point/mower lift to try and differentiate was a joke and exercise in futility... this is part of why I went 1023e instead of X700s series (no third spool...lighter frame)

    I have picked up 700+lbs with it, and it weighs 313lbs by itself. (I did this once, ballasted by my landscape rake)

    I am selling the 318, but, as I really don't need any more height nor bucket capacity than what my loader can already do (and..I built it.. so I am emotionally attached to it)... I'd like to use it on my 1023e.

    I've no issue with my fabrication skills...every part of this loader, including the bucket and tooth bar, was built from common steel tubing and flat metal.
    The only thing I did not build, were the hydraulic cylinders and hose fittings (I even pressed the hose ends on)

    I can cut out and reconfigure the mount easily... My thought, is to get an extra LVA22590 and build off of that.
    (it's the plate that's in the BLV10796 front quick hitch adapter kit ($273).. cheaper than the part alone($450)..odd.. )

    I'll see how heavy duty that plate is when my tractor arrives (hopefully this week) and decide.

    My question is.. has anyone done any custom mounting of "non standard" implements to the front of the 1023e, 1025r, or 1026 frame?

    I see companies like heavy hitch building weight brackets claiming capacity for 8)70lb weights(560lbs) hanging of the quick attach mounts. The 1023e frame looks considerably heavier than the 318 frame(the X700 series did not)... the only concern I have is the distance between my mounting pins.. the quick attach pins are close together.

    I will have to be careful of the cylinder force... the 3" cylinders running on the 950psi 318 Deere system, will behave differently on the 1023e's 2000+ psi

    My sales guy at Deere says the weight, if it worked fine on my 318, wont hurt the 1023e at all, nor void any warranties as long as I don't alter the tractor itself... but (of course..) they wont be responsible if it doesn't fit right and hits the grill or something, or if I exceed the front axle weight capacity(1349lbs continuous)
    The 120R, for this tractor, that weighs 625lbs can lift 800lbs at the pins...no worries there.

    Please share any thoughts or ideas.

    The one idea that I am guessing most will offer... Sell it, then add $1000-1500 more cash to buy the one that fits(the D120 is ~$2600 quoted), is already being considered.
    Thanks!!
    Under no circumstances would I buy the D120 loader, verses the 120R loader. The D120 loader is a project to put on and take off the machine, verses less than a minute for the 120R or the H120 loader. No "D" loader, for sure.........the only time the D120 loaders were sold were typically as part of a deal which also showed the 1023e, the 54" deck and the D120 loader to keep the combined cost as low as possible. The D series loaders on these 1 series tractors is an extremely unpopular option because of it's difficulty to take on and off the machine. Effectively, most with D series loaders don't ever remove them............

    While I admire your creativity and desire to fabricate that which doesn't exist, I would still rather have a fully functioning loader designed for that machine. You haven't run into situations where you have needed more lift or capacity or height than what your custom loader has been able to provide, having the opportunity to use a loader which does achieve those goals would be a big plus.

    I would either sell the loader with your tractor, or to someone looking for the loader for their tractor. If you end up with more than one person wanting your loader, you could always fabricate another one for them and sell it. You could become a source for the loaders for the 3 series machines like you are selling.....

    I just think that having the limited lift height and smaller bucket loader on the 1023e will not be used as it would if it were a 120R or H120 loader. Plus, being able to use pallet forks would be a HUGE benefit, I use my pallet forks more than my bucket.

    Firmly, I am in the sell it and put the money towards the loader designed for the new tractor camp.

    1025R with Mauser Cab
    (10/2017)/ 120R FEL / RC2048 Mower / All of Ken's Bolt on Products / 60" HD Front Broom / 3 pt 45 Gallon Boom less Sprayer / CA2068 Core Aerator / I-Match / 54" Snow Plow w/ angling Quick Attach / Frontier 3 Pt Sprayer / Pallet Forks / 8 -42# Weights

    John Deere 455 (New in 9/1996) / MC519 Cart /60" MMM /47" Snow Thrower / 7'3" snow plow / Quick Hitch /
    4 -42# Weights / JD#10 Cart

    ExMark Lazer Z w/60" Deck , Billy Goat Blower , Full Stable of Echo Products





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    I'm not a wizard with words like Sully..

    But I have to agree with His thoughts.

    IF..you don't think you will ever need more loader than the one You built...Keep the whole 318 with its unique loader and
    skip the loader on the new tractor.
    If the goal is to only have 1 machine....Buy once Cry Once...Get everything you may ever want and be done.

    I'd guess you could easily get a couple grand for your home brewed loader.....People up here are asking 2k for old school craftsman lawn tractor loaders and complete machines with loaders are 4k. NOT GREEN.
    Yes they have been listed for a while.....Small Green Machines are a rarity in Oregon. Its either junk riding mower or Huge stuff.
    The Hobby farm type stuff =( everything scut-lcut) is crazy high priced.

    Your loader looked odd at first...The video proves it functions quite well...it belongs where it is..318.
    Dan


    JD 955 ,70A loader, 60" mmm , Original I-match ,4' woods B hog , 5' Box blade , 12' orchard plane/driveway grader ,various other doo-dads & homebuilt implements. Goossen BFBlower, JakeRake..this thing is different.
    Kubota U-15
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    47 8n......good times..V8 in my future possibly

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    Quote Originally Posted by SulleyBear View Post
    Under no circumstances would I buy the D120 loader, verses the 120R loader. The D120 loader is a project to put on and take off the machine, verses less than a minute for the 120R or the H120 loader. No "D" loader, for sure.........the only time the D120 loaders were sold were typically as part of a deal which also showed the 1023e, the 54" deck and the D120 loader to keep the combined cost as low as possible. The D series loaders on these 1 series tractors is an extremely unpopular option because of it's difficulty to take on and off the machine. Effectively, most with D series loaders don't ever remove them............

    While I admire your creativity and desire to fabricate that which doesn't exist, I would still rather have a fully functioning loader designed for that machine. You haven't run into situations where you have needed more lift or capacity or height than what your custom loader has been able to provide, having the opportunity to use a loader which does achieve those goals would be a big plus.

    I would either sell the loader with your tractor, or to someone looking for the loader for their tractor. If you end up with more than one person wanting your loader, you could always fabricate another one for them and sell it. You could become a source for the loaders for the 3 series machines like you are selling.....

    I just think that having the limited lift height and smaller bucket loader on the 1023e will not be used as it would if it were a 120R or H120 loader. Plus, being able to use pallet forks would be a HUGE benefit, I use my pallet forks more than my bucket.

    Firmly, I am in the sell it and put the money towards the loader designed for the new tractor camp.
    What he ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ said.

    IMHO, it makes no sense to spend as much money as you did for your 1023E and not be able to use it to it's capacity. You now have a tractor that is much more capable than your 3xx. I would sell the loader with the tractor and buy an H120 or 120R. Shop around for a new leftover H120 loader. You may get a deal on one.
    Greg

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    First, impressive fab skills but I agree with the others. Once you move to four wheel drive and the capabilities that brings the extra lift and uses you have will rise. Forks will be easier to hook up along with other options.
    Welcome to Intermission.

    2017 2038R, 400, 3020 & HPX and thingies to hook to the them.
    112 - Sold in July 2017 but took me until November to admit I just cast it out into this cruel world.
    #compactfarmer

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    BWV
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    Thank you all for your advice

    I worry in selling my loader.. and I liable if someone makes a mistake and gets hurt?
    I guess I ask the buyer to sign a paper saying, "I know this is a home made, un-tested prototype, and I assume all risks"

    I did the "Buy Once, Cry Once" in purchasing this tractor (Used up most of my "Cry")

    I could buy a "Bush Hog"(which I really do want and would use a lot) for the difference in cost between the 120R and D120.

    Can any of you that have owned the D120 comment on how bad it really is?
    I know it "sounds bad"... but us it $1200 bad.. (I know that's only $40 a year if i keep it 30 years ;)... )

    When I was a kid, we had an 8N with a Wagner loader that we had to hoist off the tractor with pry bars and come-a-longs, after unbolting the front subframe, pump, removing and reinstalling the fenders, and some huge u-bolts on the axle. And had to have a place to hang it... the reverse was worse, the pump never lined up right, couplers failed, it took half a day... So driving in and lining up 4 pins doesn't sound that hard to me.
    "No problem can be solved by the same kind of thinking that created it." Albert Einstein

    1023e
    R3 turf tires
    54" AutoConnect Deck
    54" SnowBlower
    60" $152 DIY Push Blade (was Warn)
    RimGuard loaded rears + 50lb plastic weights
    LandPride RB0560 60" Back Blade
    72" DIY rake w/guide wheels (uses RB0560 frame..one nut swap)
    48" Taylor Pittsburgh 233 series CUT Rotary Cutter
    LED Work lights and 3pt area lighting
    D120 Loader with DIY Toothbar
    Cyclone Rake Classic w/Duals and Power Vacuum

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    If your new tractor will be your new "mower".....Get a loader you can ditch in 5 minutes or less.

    Mine stays on most of the time but when I want it gone..its easy.

    Worst part of hooking it back up is cleaning the hydro couplers as my cap/plug thingys have departed and the fancy new color coded ones on the wall @ the JD dealer are ..of course..a different size

    Ones that fit mine are all black...I have color coded zip ties on the hoses to make it less painless.
    Dan


    JD 955 ,70A loader, 60" mmm , Original I-match ,4' woods B hog , 5' Box blade , 12' orchard plane/driveway grader ,various other doo-dads & homebuilt implements. Goossen BFBlower, JakeRake..this thing is different.
    Kubota U-15
    Kubota RTV 900

    47 8n......good times..V8 in my future possibly

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    Quote Originally Posted by theduke View Post
    If your new tractor will be your new "mower".....Get a loader you can ditch in 5 minutes or less.

    Mine stays on most of the time but when I want it gone..its easy.

    Worst part of hooking it back up is cleaning the hydro couplers as my cap/plug thingys have departed and the fancy new color coded ones on the wall @ the JD dealer are ..of course..a different size

    Ones that fit mine are all black...I have color coded zip ties on the hoses to make it less painless.
    I already found my yellow one in the lawn and put in my toolbox. I been thinking of cutting them all off and living the rings on, putting them in toolbox for safe keeping before I start to lose more.

    I mowed my lawn with loader on yesrterday, and had to raise it all the way up for the tight corners and should have taken it off, but wanted to use it afterwards, so I got lazy and left it on. A lot easier to mow with it off. Also looks cool. Super riding mower!

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    theduke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kbar View Post
    I already found my yellow one in the lawn and put in my toolbox. I been thinking of cutting them all off and living the rings on, putting them in toolbox for safe keeping before I start to lose more.

    I mowed my lawn with loader on yesrterday, and had to raise it all the way up for the tight corners and should have taken it off, but wanted to use it afterwards, so I got lazy and left it on. A lot easier to mow with it off. Also looks cool. Super riding mower!
    Mines like a race car with No Loader...Not really But Yes its a huge difference not bounceing whatever hundred pounds around and the manur....its quicker in the turns. Don't have to watch the front so much around the trees.
    I do however like to add a few weights to the front...I got No flat land .

    Makes it look like a baby with the loader off.....I giggle ...what happened to my tractor
    Dan


    JD 955 ,70A loader, 60" mmm , Original I-match ,4' woods B hog , 5' Box blade , 12' orchard plane/driveway grader ,various other doo-dads & homebuilt implements. Goossen BFBlower, JakeRake..this thing is different.
    Kubota U-15
    Kubota RTV 900

    47 8n......good times..V8 in my future possibly

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