60D mower draft arms and hooks severely worn out.. welded solution?
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    Pedals2Paddles's Avatar
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    60D mower draft arms and hooks severely worn out.. welded solution?

    I wish I noticed this when I bought the tractor, because he had other mower decks I could have taken rather than this one that was already attached to the machine. Too late now.

    On my 1026R's 60D mower, the steel slots the auto connect draft arms hook onto are extremely worn out and oversized now. Both front and back, the slots are worn out and over sized enough that the draft arms just slip right out past the locking mechanisms. The draft arms on the tractor have matching wear, where the round arms have squared off sides from the rubbing, which contribute to everything falling off or not attaching. I've got a chain wrapped around the front to hold it in place. And in the back I have to put pins into the locking latches to hold them up higher. It barely hangs on, and without all that it just falls right off. The wear also makes it so I cannot raise the deck as high, and makes it a chore to level.

    I'm guessing the idiot mowed with the deck rolling on the gauge wheels instead of suspended by the draft arms. That would make the deck constantly move on the arms causing all this wear. The gauge wheels are pretty ragged too, which supports this theory. He mowed a tree farm with it. So a LOT of rolling on the ground like a dumbass.

    I'm thinking I can get a welder to fix this mess up. I need to make a cardboard template/trace of what these slots SHOULD look like off a 60D that is not all screwed up. I do not have a spare 60D hanging around. So I think I need to go to the dealer and find one there to trace. Or if someone here has one that wants to make a trace, scan it, and email it?


    • Use the template to trace on plate of steel what it should look like
    • Cut a new piece of steel with the correct slot sizes and to fit over the existing surfaces
    • Weld the plate up onto the existing plate, probably on the outsides, in a manner that doesn't get in the way of the latches
    • Weld bead onto the draft arms to fill in where the arms are worn out


    Do you guys think this will work? Or have another suggestion (other than buying a whole new 60D and new draft arms)?







    Last edited by Pedals2Paddles; 07-02-2019 at 11:49 AM.
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    1026r | 60D | CID Pallet Forks | 60" Box Blade | Danuser G20/40 Auger | Titan Pine Straw Rake | Kenny's hooks, springs, & diff lock pedal | LED Lighting Upgrades | HF Quick Hitch (extended hook) | Heavy Hitch weight bracket & toothbar | Custom loader snow plow


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    kylew's Avatar
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    Holy Moly. I didn't know your back ones were that bad too. I can see if I can make a decent template if you need.
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    Pedals2Paddles's Avatar
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    Neither did I back when I was futzing with the front ones. A little while later I finally noticed back while struggling with level. The previous owner of this mower deck must have been mowing with it riding on the gauge wheels at flanking speed.

    I think this is basically when I need a trace of. The slot coming in doesn't matter as that just guides the draft arm. The actual round portion and surrounding area is what I need to make whole again. Same concept for the front.

    If you can trace it and scan it, I think I could print it out and it will remain to scale and work. That would be awesome.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_20190701_193242.jpg  
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    coaltrain's Avatar
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    Wouldn't it work better if you traced a bracket that was like it was supposed to be - like a new one at the dealership?

    And you are correct - deere decks are meant to hang - not ride on the gauge wheels. You can see why - very apparent here.
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    Ok, let's see if this works. In the PDF is a template of the rear, front and a drawing I tried to get dimensions for you. The openings on mine are showing a little wear, but nothing I think would upset the template. I'm going to guess the factory actually uses millimeters instead of inches, but inches is all I have.

    When I measured the rear, I did it just behind the 'hole' where there wasn't any wear, and got approx. 25/32" with a tape measure, and 0.775-0.781" with a caliper. The best I could measure the hole itself was showing about 25/32".

    The front...the best I could guess with the tape measure is ~14/16" to 15/16". Probably closer to 15/16". Best caliper reading is 0.900-0.940". It was very hard to get a good reading on the front hole with the caliper.

    I forgot to measure the rear draft lift arm, but I measured the front draft arm right next to where it rides in the front hooks, and at various spots on the arm. I didn't want any wear to effect the reading. I consistently measured 0.874-0.875".

    I like your idea of rebuilding the metal back to near factory numbers, and might be the best shot at repairing the rear hooks. The only other idea I thought of was for the front, and that was to maybe make some hooks that point forward, and bolted to the original hooks. The new hooks would complete the back side of the hole, thus encapsulating the draft arm so it can't move backwards. I don't know if it would upset the level of the deck, but I would think if the arm is held to where it can't go forward or backward, and the hole's the right size, I would think it would work.

    I'll hold onto the templates until I hear back that you could print them off true to size. If need be I could throw a stamp on an envelope and snail mail them.
    Attached Files Attached Files
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    Quote Originally Posted by coaltrain View Post
    Wouldn't it work better if you traced a bracket that was like it was supposed to be - like a new one at the dealership?

    And you are correct - deere decks are meant to hang - not ride on the gauge wheels. You can see why - very apparent here.
    Ideally yes. But I doubt I'm going to achieve perfection either way
    PJR832 likes this.
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    Quote Originally Posted by kylew View Post
    Ok, let's see if this works. In the PDF is a template of the rear, front and a drawing I tried to get dimensions for you. The openings on mine are showing a little wear, but nothing I think would upset the template. I'm going to guess the factory actually uses millimeters instead of inches, but inches is all I have.
    Holy crap, thank you!! That's exactly what I need! I will print these out at the office tomorrow and trace onto some cardboard to test fit in the afternoon.

    OMFG looking at that compared to what mine looks like... I think the previous owner was mowing a minefield?!
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    Quote Originally Posted by kylew View Post
    Ok, let's see if this works. In the PDF is a template of the rear, front and a drawing I tried to get dimensions for you. The openings on mine are showing a little wear, but nothing I think would upset the template. I'm going to guess the factory actually uses millimeters instead of inches, but inches is all I have.

    When I measured the rear, I did it just behind the 'hole' where there wasn't any wear, and got approx. 25/32" with a tape measure, and 0.775-0.781" with a caliper. The best I could measure the hole itself was showing about 25/32".

    The front...the best I could guess with the tape measure is ~14/16" to 15/16". Probably closer to 15/16". Best caliper reading is 0.900-0.940". It was very hard to get a good reading on the front hole with the caliper.

    I forgot to measure the rear draft lift arm, but I measured the front draft arm right next to where it rides in the front hooks, and at various spots on the arm. I didn't want any wear to effect the reading. I consistently measured 0.874-0.875".

    I like your idea of rebuilding the metal back to near factory numbers, and might be the best shot at repairing the rear hooks. The only other idea I thought of was for the front, and that was to maybe make some hooks that point forward, and bolted to the original hooks. The new hooks would complete the back side of the hole, thus encapsulating the draft arm so it can't move backwards. I don't know if it would upset the level of the deck, but I would think if the arm is held to where it can't go forward or backward, and the hole's the right size, I would think it would work.

    I'll hold onto the templates until I hear back that you could print them off true to size. If need be I could throw a stamp on an envelope and snail mail them.

    Looks like we got a artist in the house.. That is nice of you to help like that.
    PJR832 and kylew like this.

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    kylew's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Melikes View Post
    Looks like we got a artist in the house.. That is nice of you to help like that.
    I don't know about that. I couldn't draw a straight line without a ruler. Even with a ruler sometimes it's a challenge. Forget about circles.
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    kylew's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedals2Paddles View Post
    Holy crap, thank you!! That's exactly what I need! I will print these out at the office tomorrow and trace onto some cardboard to test fit in the afternoon.

    OMFG looking at that compared to what mine looks like... I think the previous owner was mowing a minefield?!
    You're welcome.

    I was looking at your pictures earlier on my phone and couldn't see how bad the fronts were at that time. Yeah, you've got some work to do but I think you're going to get it. Seeing JD wants about $1500 for just a shell you've got nothing to lose by trying. Multiple times if necessary
    PJR832 likes this.
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    2014 1025R TLB
    60D AutoConnect Mower●H120 Loader●260 Backhoe●BB2048 Box Blade●RB2060L Back Blade●RC2048 Rotary Cutter●JD 60" Quick Hitch Plow Blade●Ken's Bolt-on Hooks●Ken's Diff Pedal●Ken's I-Match Hook●Ken's Backhoe Steps●Titan 42" Forks w/Headache Rack●Titan Ballast Box●Titan Toothbar w/23WTL Tiger Teeth●3" Edge Tamers●BXpanded 6" Bucket, Ripper & Bucket Quick Change●This & That Mods●Other Stuff I Forgot About●

    The Mrs. has 2014 X360

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