What's required to add a MMM to a 1025R after the fact?
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    JamesCE's Avatar
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    What's required to add a MMM to a 1025R after the fact?

    first of all, I think this has been asked but I can't find the post and have been searching for the past half hour.
    If you find it please let me know!
    I have a 1025r TLB but I didn't get the MMM.
    However, I have a need for it now. I want to get the most basic setup which is probably the mechanical lift.
    If I purchase the deck (probably 54") what would I also need to purchase? Is there a catalog that has this information?
    1025r FILB, 47" Snowblower, Front Blade, Quick Hitch

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    You should only need the deck and the "attaching parts". I would also recommend the "auto PTO connector". Without it you have to get on your knees and manualy connect/disconnect the PTO shaft.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mmm parts.png  
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    1025r TLB, 54" Bucket, R4 Tires (metal valve stems!) with Beet Juice, 60D Mower Deck - mechanical lift, 42" Titan Pallet Forks w/Bale spear, 54" ETA Box Blade, 72" ETA Landscape Rake, iMatch, Ken's Bolt on Hooks and Diff pedal extension, Piranha Tooth Bar and psrumor's Seat Springs

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    As far as which flavor of lift to get; if you need to raise and lower the 3pt hitch while you are actively mowing (without the MMM changing height), then you will need to get the "independent lift" or "hydraulic lift" (very few people need to do this). Otherwise I highly recommend getting the standard "mechanical lift".

    With the standard "Mechanical lift", the height is controlled by the position control lever. When you raise the 3pt, the mower deck goes up, when you lower the 3pt the deck goes down to wherever you have the height control knob set to. You only need to lower the 3pt about half way for the mower deck to be all the way down. If you want to use the 3pt without affecting the deck then you use the height control to keep the deck in the highest position (which used to be called "lock") - or just remove the deck.

    An advantage of this is that you do not need to use the height control knob (the stepped cam) to set the height of the deck. You can use the position control lock to set the height.

    With the other two lifts a dedicated hydraulic cylinder is used. The disadvantage to this is that it is an "up" only control. You push the button and the deck raises, let go and it drops. You must use the height control knob to set the height of the deck.

    IMO, the independent lift is an up-sell. In my case it would have added another thousand dollars to the price. "You'll love it" is what my dealer told me, I told him the standard would be fine and I will be installing it myself. If you trust your dealer and they sell you on it you will probably be happy with it - not knowing that the standard "mechanical lift" is actually nicer to use (unless you fit that certain use case that requires the independent lift).
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    1025r TLB, 54" Bucket, R4 Tires (metal valve stems!) with Beet Juice, 60D Mower Deck - mechanical lift, 42" Titan Pallet Forks w/Bale spear, 54" ETA Box Blade, 72" ETA Landscape Rake, iMatch, Ken's Bolt on Hooks and Diff pedal extension, Piranha Tooth Bar and psrumor's Seat Springs

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    kylew's Avatar
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    The needed parts for a 1025 that's never had a deck (deck itself not discussed):

    BLV10736 Lift arm kit, which also has the front draft brackets. Those mount on the outside of the frame in the front. The front 2 mounting holes go between the frame and the grill guard. Do one side at a time and you won't have to wrestle with the grill guard. The side you're not doing will hold it.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    A picture of how they relate to the deck.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    BLV10737 Shaft kit, unless your tractor came with it from the factory. It was either 2017 or 2018 when the factory started adding them as stock. Earlier tractors it had to be added. Check to see if it's already on your tractor.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Now the options of controlling the lift:

    BLV10738 is the rockshaft mechanical linkage kit.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    How BLV10738 relates to BLV10737
    Click image for larger version. 

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    A brief overview of the 3 choices for controlling the lift:

    It's your choice what to get, but the mower lift shaft, BLV10737, has to be controlled by something. The mechanical linkage type uses the rockshaft lever, which also controls the 3 point hitch, and they are not separateable. When the deck goes up and down, so does the 3 point. Many people don't mind, but if you have something on the 3 point, like a power bagger, it'll move also, which isn't something you typically want to do.

    Option 2 is the hydraulic lift. It uses a hydraulic cylinder attached to the mower lift shaft (BLV10737) and is controlled by the SCV joystick. The downside is it uses one of the quick connect ports for the loader, so if you also have the loader attached, you lose one of the functions of the loader, usually the curl function. Many, like myself, don't mow with the loader on so it's not a problem. This is the system I have.

    Option 3 is the independent lift. This also uses a hydraulic cylinder but is controlled by a switch on the dash, and you don't lose the use of the loader quick disconnect. Some have mounted the switch on the right side of the dash instead of the factory recommended left hand side. It's hard to turn the height adjustment knob and press the switch at the same time if they are both on the left side. The downfall of this system is the mower deck only stays raised while you're holding the switch. Once you let go, the deck drops and stops on the height adjustment cam wherever that is set at.

    I can get the part numbers for the hydraulic or independent lift kits if you want, but you mentioned you were interested in the mechanical lift.

    End post 1 of 2 (I believe I can only post 5 pictures per post)
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    If you're interested in the Autoconnect shaft, it can be added anytime. If the deck has the manual connect shaft, you remove the shaft from the gearbox and add a male stub shaft adaptor onto the gearbox, along with mounting the Autoconnect shaft to the tractor.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Here's a couple links for your reading pleasure where we discussed adding the mower lifts.

    Buying a MMM

    New 1025R owner help with installation of the 60D auto Connect hardware
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    2014 1025R TLB
    60D AutoConnect Mower●H120 Loader●260 Backhoe●BB2048 Box Blade●RB2060L Back Blade●RC2048 Rotary Cutter●JD 60" Quick Hitch Plow Blade●Ken's Bolt-on Hooks●Ken's Diff Pedal●Ken's I-Match Hook●Ken's Backhoe Steps●Titan 42" Forks w/Headache Rack●Titan Ballast Box●Titan Toothbar w/23WTL Tiger Teeth●3" Edge Tamers●BXpanded 6" Bucket, Ripper & Bucket Quick Change●This & That Mods●Other Stuff I Forgot About●

    The Mrs. has 2014 X360

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    thanks for the quick information yall... now to run this by the wife to make the purchase
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    1025r FILB, 47" Snowblower, Front Blade, Quick Hitch

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    Quote Originally Posted by JamesCE View Post
    thanks for the quick information yall... now to run this by the wife to make the purchase
    Oops.....forgot to mention, use this link to go to JDParts. Register and add your local dealer, then you can see pricing and their inventory status on parts.

    MyJohnDeere Login
    Or
    JDParts: Homepage

    Since you're running this past your finance committee, you might want the prices
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    2014 1025R TLB
    60D AutoConnect Mower●H120 Loader●260 Backhoe●BB2048 Box Blade●RB2060L Back Blade●RC2048 Rotary Cutter●JD 60" Quick Hitch Plow Blade●Ken's Bolt-on Hooks●Ken's Diff Pedal●Ken's I-Match Hook●Ken's Backhoe Steps●Titan 42" Forks w/Headache Rack●Titan Ballast Box●Titan Toothbar w/23WTL Tiger Teeth●3" Edge Tamers●BXpanded 6" Bucket, Ripper & Bucket Quick Change●This & That Mods●Other Stuff I Forgot About●

    The Mrs. has 2014 X360

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    Quote Originally Posted by kylew View Post
    ...The mechanical linkage type uses the rockshaft lever, which also controls the 3 point hitch, and they are not separateable. When the deck goes up and down, so does the 3 point. Many people don't mind, but if you have something on the 3 point, like a power bagger, it'll move also, which isn't something you typically want to do.
    To be clear - the deck reaches its lowest point well before the 3pt is all the way down. You don't need to drop the 3pt all the way in order for the deck to be at its lowest position. When not mowing you can lock the deck in the up position and have full use of the 3pt without it affecting the deck.
    kylew likes this.
    1025r TLB, 54" Bucket, R4 Tires (metal valve stems!) with Beet Juice, 60D Mower Deck - mechanical lift, 42" Titan Pallet Forks w/Bale spear, 54" ETA Box Blade, 72" ETA Landscape Rake, iMatch, Ken's Bolt on Hooks and Diff pedal extension, Piranha Tooth Bar and psrumor's Seat Springs

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    martincom's Avatar
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    Depending on the year of your tractor, you may not require the parts in the illustration below. The later model tractors are built with these items installed at the factory. You may want to check yours for them.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    kylew likes this.
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    JamesCE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by W9GFO View Post
    You should only need the deck and the "attaching parts". I would also recommend the "auto PTO connector". Without it you have to get on your knees and manualy connect/disconnect the PTO shaft.

    How do I add this to the online catalogue? I can only get the mounting parts to come up but not the deck.


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    1025r FILB, 47" Snowblower, Front Blade, Quick Hitch

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