Loader Falling while stored
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12
Like Tree48Likes

Thread: Loader Falling while stored

  1. Top | #1

    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 10:13 PM
    Location
    ILLINOIS
    Posts
    19
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts

    Loader Falling while stored

    My loader has started falling to the ground while stored. The last 2 times after removing it I found it like this a day or so later. There seems to be hydraulic fluid on the ground leaking from one of the fittings. I think itís coming from the tip. Can anyone tell me if they have dealt with this? Is the fitting bad or just a tiny piece of dirt maybe obstructing it from closing?
    Any help or advice is appreciated. Thanks!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. Top | #2
    Keeper of the GTT Cookies dieselshadow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Last Online
    Today @ 03:48 PM
    Location
    Joelton TN
    Posts
    19,775
    Thanks
    1,065
    Thanked 4,289 Times in 2,580 Posts
    If you remove the loader and set the stand back until the latches latch, it wonít fold like that. Itíll also take off the pressure from the system.

    Iíd also get the QD replaced.
    glc, keane, PJR832 and 2 others like this.
    - Jason

    GreenTractorTalk.com Rules, Policies, and Terms of Use

    Subscribe to dieselshadowman on YouTube

    2720 w/ 200CX FEL
    , Ken's weld-on hooks, Fit Rite Hydraulics Top and Tilt kit, Artillian forks.
    1954 60 - getting full restoration, 1964
    110 round fender in the shop for crustoration
    Ferris IS3200Zzero turn mower

  4. Top | #3

    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Last Online
    Today @ 03:33 PM
    Location
    Berlin, MA
    Posts
    4,597
    Thanks
    94
    Thanked 867 Times in 662 Posts
    Most likely there is some dirt or sand in the fitting that is preventing it from closing 100%. People have commented in the past that pressure will build in the lines even when the loader is parked just from the sun baking it during hot days. Between expanding fluid and the weight of the loader, it creates enough pressure to push past the connectors. You can try cleaning or just replace the connector end. Those may not "fix" the problem though. You may have to rig up some sort of stand to take the weight off the loader.
    kylew and JD4044M like this.
    D160 Mower/Bagger.
    2014 2032R tractor/H130 FEL w/Bolt-On Hooks/54" Snow Plow/iMatch Quick-Hitch/County Line 5' Scraper blade/County Line Carry-All/Artillian 42" Forks & QH Adapter/JD Ballast Box/Frontier SB1164 3PH Blower/Leinbach PHD/Wallenstien BX42 Chipper

  5. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. Top | #4
    jgayman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Last Online
    Today @ 03:35 PM
    Location
    Central Pennsylvania
    Posts
    9,771
    Thanks
    366
    Thanked 1,604 Times in 1,218 Posts
    It sounds like you are not fully locking the loader onto the parking stand. When fully locked in position there is no tension on the hydraulic cylinders.

    When detaching the loader are you raising it until the mast locks snap back down on their own?
    Last edited by jgayman; 07-08-2019 at 08:03 AM.
    glc, jimmylh, PJR832 and 3 others like this.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

  7. Top | #5

    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 10:13 PM
    Location
    ILLINOIS
    Posts
    19
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    It sounds like you are not fully locking the loader onto the parking stand. When fully locked in position there is no tension on the hydraulic cylinders.

    When detaching the loader are you raising it until the mast locks snap back down on their own?
    No. I just raise it enough to get out of it.
    Am I supposed to raise( lower the bucket) until the latches fall?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. Top | #6
    jgayman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Last Online
    Today @ 03:35 PM
    Location
    Central Pennsylvania
    Posts
    9,771
    Thanks
    366
    Thanked 1,604 Times in 1,218 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Jdorris112 View Post
    No. I just raise it enough to get out of it.
    Am I supposed to raise( lower the bucket) until the latches fall?
    Well... you don't HAVE to but it is a good way to know that you've raised it enough for the parking stand to be past center and fully supporting the loader's weight. :-)

    On my 2720 I used to always lower the locks by hand but then read a bunch of reports of how they should snap back down on their own so I've started parking mine that way.
    glc, coaltrain, PJR832 and 2 others like this.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

  9. Top | #7
    Kbar's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Last Online
    Today @ 10:59 AM
    Location
    -Western WA
    Posts
    639
    Thanks
    63
    Thanked 68 Times in 62 Posts
    If thereís hydraulic fluid on the ground, you have a leaking coupler, hose, or fitting. Iíd first check where the leak is coming from, fix the leak, then textbook park that thing like the manual says. In my experience, once those couplers start to fail, they just get worse. You might get lucky, and be able to clean it up enough to hold its seal, but really the only thing holding pressure in those lines is a small O-ring. Sometimes they will roll out of their seat from a sloppy connection or disconnect, and will get pinched between the walls of the fitting. Once an O-ring is compromised, itís best to replace it. Those types of couplers have internal o-rings that are almost impossible to get to and unless you have the special tools and schematics on that exact part, your not going to just replace the o-ring and be good to go. Best to replace the coupler. They are expensive. You can take off the hose and take it to your local hose and fittings shop to have it fixed. Otherwise, Amazon. Most of these fittings have small engraved part #ís on them. Make sure you use some thread sealer when putting the new fitting on
    PJR832, JD4044M, ttazzman and 1 others like this.

  10. Top | #8
    jgayman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Last Online
    Today @ 03:35 PM
    Location
    Central Pennsylvania
    Posts
    9,771
    Thanks
    366
    Thanked 1,604 Times in 1,218 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Kbar View Post
    If there’s hydraulic fluid on the ground, you have a leaking coupler, hose, or fitting. I’d first check where the leak is coming from, fix the leak, then textbook park that thing like the manual says. In my experience, once those couplers start to fail, they just get worse. You might get lucky, and be able to clean it up enough to hold its seal, but really the only thing holding pressure in those lines is a small O-ring. Sometimes they will roll out of their seat from a sloppy connection or disconnect, and will get pinched between the walls of the fitting. Once an O-ring is compromised, it’s best to replace it. Those types of couplers have internal o-rings that are almost impossible to get to and unless you have the special tools and schematics on that exact part, your not going to just replace the o-ring and be good to go. Best to replace the coupler. They are expensive. You can take off the hose and take it to your local hose and fittings shop to have it fixed. Otherwise, Amazon. Most of these fittings have small engraved part #’s on them. Make sure you use some thread sealer when putting the new fitting on
    The female quick couplers can leak one of two ways. If they leak when connected it is typically the O-ring which can easily be replaced and costs around $4.00. If they leak when disconnected they are more difficult to repair and it is usually best just to replace them.

    A leaky MALE coupler is much more difficult to repair. A new male quick coupler for a 120R loader is only $14.19 from the dealer so it's probably just best to replace it.

    Be careful when using thread sealer. Best to use the liquid stuff if you must.
    Last edited by jgayman; 07-08-2019 at 08:45 AM.
    glc, PJR832, kylew and 2 others like this.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

  11. Top | #9
    coaltrain's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Last Online
    Today @ 02:18 PM
    Location
    NW Penna
    Posts
    19,802
    Thanks
    1,058
    Thanked 3,061 Times in 2,226 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    Well... you don't HAVE to but it is a good way to know that you've raised it enough for the parking stand to be past center and fully supporting the loader's weight. :-)

    On my 2720 I used to always lower the locks by hand but then read a bunch of reports of how they should snap back down on their own so I've started parking mine that way.
    Exactly the same with me - I never knew that the loader would lock up on the parking stand.

    My loader is only off for a matter of a couple hours at a time so never had a leak down issue. But my hydraulic fittings certainly do leak so it would over time.
    glc, PJR832, kylew and 1 others like this.
    ~Stan~
    It is what it is
    Knowledge is power, ignorance is bliss
    2520 w/200CX w/62D2

  12. Top | #10

    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 10:13 PM
    Location
    ILLINOIS
    Posts
    19
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
    Tons of great Feedback. Thank you all.
    I have so far connected and disconnected and left the stand in the text book position. I put the ends of my hoses in a bucket and will check tomorrow for any leaking other than residual from the action of connecting and disconnecting the fittings as well as any dropping. I will update the thread for anyone who is curious.
    Thanks for the help everyone.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    glc, jgayman, ErikR and 5 others like this.

  13. The Following User Says Thank You to Jdorris112 For This Useful Post:

    jgayman†(07-08-2019)

  14. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts