Flat draw bar for stock hitch?
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    Corkpuller's Avatar
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    Flat draw bar for stock hitch?

    Looking for just a simple, inexpensive flat draw bar pre drilled for the 1025r hitch plate, about 18” to 24”.
    Want an option to pull heavy $hit rather than jerking on the 3 point.

    I know I could just source a piece of flat bar and drill it myself, but,,,,,, for 20 bucks, I’d save my time and effort and spend my money.

    Thanks
    2014 1025R, 120R loader

    "ain't too smart, but I'm always thinkin"

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corkpuller View Post
    Looking for just a simple, inexpensive flat draw bar pre drilled for the 1025r hitch plate, about 18” to 24”.
    Want an option to pull heavy $hit rather than jerking on the 3 point.

    I know I could just source a piece of flat bar and drill it myself, but,,,,,, for 20 bucks, I’d save my time and effort and spend my money.
    Can you elaborate on what you are looking for? Pre-drilled? 18-24-inches long?

    The preferred solution to the short comings of the existing 1-series fixed drawbar is a 2-inch receiver hitch replacement plate. You can then attach any drawbar length you want.

    As for using the 3PH, no worries about pulling things with it, that's what it was designed for.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails hitch_plate.jpg  
    Toughsox likes this.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    Corkpuller's Avatar
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    Key words are —— flat bar, inexpensive

    stock hitch plate mounting holes are 2 1/4 OC

    Just like a swinging draw bar on a tractor.
    2014 1025R, 120R loader

    "ain't too smart, but I'm always thinkin"

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corkpuller View Post
    Key words are —— flat bar, inexpensive

    stock hitch plate mounting holes are 2 1/4 OC

    Just like a swinging draw bar on a tractor.
    If I'm understanding you correctly. I don't see how you have enough mounting points for a swinging draw bar, or even a fixed draw bar like on larger tractors. Those draw bars all have two support points. The 1-series unfortunately just has a plate with a hitch hole similar to what you typically see on a garden tractor.

    Take the swinging draw bar shown below. To have a long draw bar you have to first anchor the one end (#1) up underneath the tractor somewhere. You then support the draw bar at the rear of the tractor (#2). This allows the draw bar (#3) to extend out the back with all of the tongue weight supported by point #2. The 1-series doesn't have any place to serve as support #1. A true swinging draw bar has a wide slot at support #2 so that the draw bar itself can be pinned in positions off to one side or another. The fixed draw bars on most all SCUT/CUT tractors have only one position perpendicular to the tractor.

    If I have this all wrong do you have a drawing of the item you which to fabricate?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails bar1.jpg  
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    Quote Originally Posted by jgayman View Post
    If I'm understanding you correctly. I don't see how you have enough mounting points for a swinging draw bar, or even a fixed draw bar like on larger tractors. Those draw bars all have two support points. The 1-series unfortunately just has a plate with a hitch hole similar to what you typically see on a garden tractor.
    He doesn't want the entire swinging drawbar setup, He wants to mount item #3 from that image to his hitch plate. It won't swing but it will be a drawbar that is mounted below his PTO which is the best setup (from a safety perspective) for pulling.

    That solid drawbar (if you prefer) has 2 holes at the mounting end. The hitch plate on the 1025R also has 2 holes. The question is, "Will the holes line up?"

    I don't know of anyone that's tried it.
    D160 Mower/Bagger.
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    Corkpuller's Avatar
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    No man, yer over complicating it

    Just a length of 1/2 to 1” thick, FLAT BAR.
    drill 2 holes, bolt it to the hitch plate
    On the biz ness end drill another hole to drop a pin to attach a trailer, or put a shackle in the end to attach a chain.

    I found a piece of scrap in my shed, but it’s not thick enough.
    I would have thought that Deere or someone would have similar to bolt to this hitch plate. The dang thing is too far up under the machine to be any good with a short tongue trailer.

    I’m well aware of the receiver hitch that bolts up to hitch plate, but I ain’t wanting no receiver hitch.
    Already have that on the 3 point.
    Just wanting another option that’s low and inline with the axle.
    Last edited by Corkpuller; 08-03-2019 at 06:45 PM.
    2014 1025R, 120R loader

    "ain't too smart, but I'm always thinkin"

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    Quote Originally Posted by JimR View Post
    He doesn't want the entire swinging drawbar setup, He wants to mount item #3 from that image to his hitch plate. It won't swing but it will be a drawbar that is mounted below his PTO which is the best setup (from a safety perspective) for pulling.

    That solid drawbar (if you prefer) has 2 holes at the mounting end. The hitch plate on the 1025R also has 2 holes. The question is, "Will the holes line up?"

    I don't know of anyone that's tried it.
    B I N G O !

    Thank you sir.

    2014 1025R, 120R loader

    "ain't too smart, but I'm always thinkin"

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    Quote Originally Posted by JimR View Post
    He doesn't want the entire swinging drawbar setup, He wants to mount item #3 from that image to his hitch plate. It won't swing but it will be a drawbar that is mounted below his PTO which is the best setup (from a safety perspective) for pulling.

    That solid drawbar (if you prefer) has 2 holes at the mounting end. The hitch plate on the 1025R also has 2 holes. The question is, "Will the holes line up?"

    I don't know of anyone that's tried it.

    Ahhh... ok. The hole alignment doesn't seem like a problem that a drill bit couldn't solve. I would be a bit leery of having a 18-24 inch bar that is fastened to the factory hitch plate with bolts that are only a few inches apart (the depth of the plate). It wouldn't take much weight on the end of a draw bar that long to possibly twist the factory plate.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1_draw.jpg  
    PJR832 likes this.
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    Was just a guess on the length, because I thought I may want it installed at the same time as the 3 point hitch / weight rack. But after looking it over a while ago, I think about 12-14” will do it.

    Obviously nobody sells something for this particular hitch plate, so I’ll likely make my own.
    2014 1025R, 120R loader

    "ain't too smart, but I'm always thinkin"

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    jgayman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corkpuller View Post
    Was just a guess on the length, because I thought I may want it installed at the same time as the 3 point hitch / weight rack. But after looking it over a while ago, I think about 12-14” will do it.

    Obviously nobody sells something for this particular hitch plate, so I’ll likely make my own.
    12-14 inches shouldn’t cause any problems. Why not just drill the drawbar to fit the existing holes in your factory hitch plate?
    PJR832 likes this.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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