Replacing seal on rotary cutter HELP!
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    Wvdeere's Avatar
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    Replacing seal on rotary cutter HELP!

    I recently acquired a mint condition tractor supply 4ft rotary cutter. The man only used it 3 times to mow his garden and itís been stored in his garage for several years. The paint isnít even scratched on it. However he either ran it without oil or just the time sitting idle has caused the seal on the bottom to leak fluid. I bought a new seal but cannot get the stump jumper off. Itís like itís welded on. I have it upside down and have pryed on it every way possible. I watched a guy on YouTube use a propane torch to heat it up and hammer it out upside down but he damaged his threads. Is this the only way?


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    Got pictures?

    Some of the gurus here can probably shoot you some ideas if we can see it.
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    I have not tried this but do know someone that has, in addition to seeing several successful online references to it: Filling the gear case full of wheel bearing or axle grease via a grease gun. Too thick to leak but allegedly provides adequate lubrication. Becomes semi liquid in high temps but not to the point of getting past the seal. It worked for 40 years in closed knuckle 4x4s. Have also seen this method used in many M-series military front axles once the "sweep" gets leak prone.
    Last edited by 2mtrucks; 09-03-2019 at 07:58 PM.
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    Wvdeere's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2mtrucks View Post
    I have not tried this but do know someone that has, in addition to seeing several successful online references to it: Filling the gear case full of wheel bearing or axle grease via a grease gun. Too thick to leak but allegedly provides adequate lubrication. Becomes semi liquid in high temps but not to the point of getting past the seal. It worked for 40 years in closed knuckle 4x4s. Have also seen this method used in many M-series military front axles once the "sweep" gets leak prone.
    I have heard of this. It may be worth a shot before battling this spline. Any recommendations on type of grease? Just the blue John Deere grease I use on everything else?


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    #0 Grease

    Try corn "picker grease". #0 (zero) grease. It sumps so it does not fly off like #2 grease. Does not leak like 85/90 gear oil and works. Years ago the old rotary cutters came with #0 grease from the factory and I run it in my 35 year old rotary mower.
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    Quote Originally Posted by ch612 View Post
    Try corn "picker grease". #0 (zero) grease. It sumps so it does not fly off like #2 grease. Does not leak like 85/90 gear oil and works. Years ago the old rotary cutters came with #0 grease from the factory and I run it in my 35 year old rotary mower.
    I would be inclined to follow this advice. Obviously from an injectable cartridge unless you are real patient. I have seen similar references to older gearboxes filled with OEM grease. Probably depends on the implement. Doubt it was ever in snowblower gearboxes but it is unlikely that most rotary mowers are operated in frigid temps.
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    If it was run without oil, corn head grease is your best /easiest solution.
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    Corn Head grease is good

    After replacing a seal in my Bushhog, I'd agree that filling the gear box with corn head grease is a great alternative. I've done that with other gearboxes and it worked fine.

    If you want to get the stump jumper off, your only real option is lube the splines frequently for some period of time. Then I would try to work wooden wedges underneath to provide pressure. A porta power with a wedge implement would help as well if you have one. Finally put the nut back on the shaft and hit the shaft with a brass hammer. If you can get the blade bolts loose you can make a puller by drilling a channel iron or strong steel bar so that you can drop threaded rod down and tighten that up to put pressure on the jumper. (Almost forgot I had to do that as well.)

    Keep moving the pressure from one spot to another and eventually it will break loose but all in all the corn head grease is a good alternative to spending a lot of frustrating time dealing with it. Been there, done that and don't particularly care to do it again.

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    Last edited by Treefarmer; 09-03-2019 at 08:53 PM.
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    BWV
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    I wedged a bunch of steel (crow bars, pry bars, screwdrivers, leftover metal scraps) between the stump jumper and the "frame" (the reinforced parts of the deck) in four spots around the outside of the stump jumper, two near where the blades are bolted on, then put the nut on loose, so the nut was a tiny bit above flush with the shaft... popped it once, real hard with a 5lb sledge, and it popped off.
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