Adding hydraulic angle to a rear blade
Page 1 of 5 1 2 3 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 42
Like Tree52Likes

Thread: Adding hydraulic angle to a rear blade

  1. Top | #1
    56FordGuy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Last Online
    11-13-2019 @ 07:51 PM
    Location
    Wyoming
    Posts
    10,043
    Thanks
    482
    Thanked 1,662 Times in 1,091 Posts

    Adding hydraulic angle to a rear blade

    I'm working on the layout for adding an angle cylinder to my blade, figured I'd run the idea by folks here.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0596.jpg 
Views:	57 
Size:	746.2 KB 
ID:	105833

    My plan is to go from the frame, right behind the right side three point pin to the blade right above the third brace in on the blade, about 36" away from the center pivot. It's 48" from point to point, and I found a 5x24" cylinder. 12" stroke both directions will allow me to angle the blade almost exactly to the first notch on the factory lock. I won't be using the locks, but that's how far it can move.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0600.jpg 
Views:	46 
Size:	693.8 KB 
ID:	105841

    The blade is 10' wide overall. I can move the mounting point on the blade in or out to gain more angle or to have more leverage. I'm planning on using a 5" cylinder, that's the largest bore I've found yet. I need to find the right balance strength to keep the blade in position when grading or doing dirt work, while also having enough angle to move snow or other material.

    Any input, thought, or math calculations would be appreciated. I'm willing to change whatever part of the design needs to change if it can make it work better.
    -Blake

    Your mileage may vary.

    JD 6410
    Some other stuff

    YouTube- Life in Wyoming

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. Top | #2

    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Last Online
    Today @ 05:39 AM
    Location
    Near Roa. VA
    Posts
    3,673
    Thanks
    43
    Thanked 455 Times in 347 Posts
    5" bore will make the blade S L O W to react,,, I think you would want it to rotate much faster.

    2 or 3 inch bore would be plenty strong,,, the max force on the cylinder would be about the weight of the tractor.

    A cylinder with a 1 1/4 inch rod would be adequate.

    My landscape rake was designed for hydraulic angling,,,



    The perfect cylinder for the rake would be a 20 1/4" CPCD cylinder,,, with 8" of stroke.

    Remember to add a bracket on the back, so the blade can be reversed.
    Gizmo2, BigJim55 and Marlin like this.

  4. Top | #3
    Tractor Tim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Last Online
    Today @ 08:29 AM
    Location
    Lebanon, Indiana
    Posts
    1,515
    Thanks
    656
    Thanked 797 Times in 347 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by CADplans View Post
    5" bore will make the blade S L O W to react,,, I think you would want it to rotate much faster.

    2 or 3 inch bore would be plenty strong,,, the max force on the cylinder would be about the weight of the tractor.

    A cylinder with a 1 1/4 inch rod would be adequate.
    I agree, a 5" cylinder would be overkill. I would think a 2.5 inch bore would be sufficient, would cycle much faster, and be a LOT cheaper.

    Edit: I see that Land Pride uses a 3.5" cylinder on a blade rated for similar horsepower:
    Land Pride RBT 35 Series Specs


    Tim
    Last edited by Tractor Tim; 12-27-2015 at 07:17 PM.
    rtgt and BigJim55 like this.
    (See Tractor Time with Tim's main YouTube channel page)
    Tractor Time with Tim Web site
    Owned:
    2018 Deere 1025R

    Sponsored (subsidized, loaner, etc):
    Ventrac 4500
    Case CX37C
    Deere 5075e
    Deere 2038r
    Deere Gator 835M HVAC

  5. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. Top | #4
    Keeper of the GTT Cookies dieselshadow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Last Online
    Today @ 06:43 AM
    Location
    Joelton TN
    Posts
    20,020
    Thanks
    1,069
    Thanked 4,345 Times in 2,614 Posts
    Who cares about cycle times? You're only using it to change the angle, not split wood. Slow is ok in my book. In fact, both of my top and tilt cylinders have orifices to slow them down.
    Gizmo2, rtgt, BigJim55 and 2 others like this.
    - Jason

    GreenTractorTalk.com Rules, Policies, and Terms of Use

    Subscribe to dieselshadowman on YouTube

    2720 w/ 200CX FEL
    , Ken's weld-on hooks, Fit Rite Hydraulics Top and Tilt kit, Artillian forks.
    1954 60 - getting full restoration, 1964
    110 round fender in the shop for crustoration
    Ferris IS3200Zzero turn mower

    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo2 View Post
    Dieselshadow is my Hero.


  7. Top | #5
    Tractor Tim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Last Online
    Today @ 08:29 AM
    Location
    Lebanon, Indiana
    Posts
    1,515
    Thanks
    656
    Thanked 797 Times in 347 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by dieselshadow View Post
    Who cares about cycle times? You're only using it to change the angle, not split wood. Slow is ok in my book. In fact, both of my top and tilt cylinders have orifices to slow them down.
    I guess I was thinking about cost. You are right, if one already has a 5" cylinder available, it would definitely work.
    Last edited by Tractor Tim; 12-27-2015 at 07:45 PM.
    dieselshadow, rtgt and BigJim55 like this.
    (See Tractor Time with Tim's main YouTube channel page)
    Tractor Time with Tim Web site
    Owned:
    2018 Deere 1025R

    Sponsored (subsidized, loaner, etc):
    Ventrac 4500
    Case CX37C
    Deere 5075e
    Deere 2038r
    Deere Gator 835M HVAC

  8. Top | #6
    56FordGuy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Last Online
    11-13-2019 @ 07:51 PM
    Location
    Wyoming
    Posts
    10,043
    Thanks
    482
    Thanked 1,662 Times in 1,091 Posts
    It's a 10' wide blade being pulled by a 60 HP 4wd tractor, I'd estimate the weight between 6-7,000 lbs- and the blade may get hooked to a larger machine as well. When cutting on one side of the blade or the other, all that force is trying to either collapse or pull the cylinder apart. I really have some serious doubts about a 2-3" cylinder holding up to that kind of force, especially with 20+ inches of stroke. The blade came from the factory with two steel angle locks that are 3/4" thick. There's going to be an awful lot of force on this. Speed isn't a big concern for me- my side link is 3.5" and moves plenty fast, I'm sure a 5" cylinder will be fast enough. Slower than 3.5 for sure, but still much faster than getting off the tractor, unlocking the blade, turning it and relocking it.


    I just found the specs (thanks timmarks!) for a 10' Land Pride blade, the RBT55120. It's the lowest HP rating 10' I could find on their site. They spec a 4.5x16x2" cylinder. It looks like a much heavier duty blade than what I have, and they're mounting the cylinder much closer to the pivot point than I am which would put even more stress on it. Maybe I could go with a smaller cylinder, or move my mounting point in to gain more angle. I'm just paranoid about breaking implements. It's happened once or twice.
    Last edited by 56FordGuy; 12-27-2015 at 07:31 PM.
    Zebrafive, rtgt, BigJim55 and 2 others like this.
    -Blake

    Your mileage may vary.

    JD 6410
    Some other stuff

    YouTube- Life in Wyoming

  9. Top | #7
    Tractor Tim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Last Online
    Today @ 08:29 AM
    Location
    Lebanon, Indiana
    Posts
    1,515
    Thanks
    656
    Thanked 797 Times in 347 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by 56FordGuy View Post
    It's a 10' wide blade being pulled by a 60 HP 4wd tractor, I'd estimate the weight between 6-7,000 lbs- and the blade may get hooked to a larger machine as well. When cutting on one side of the blade or the other, all that force is trying to either collapse or pull the cylinder apart. I really have some serious doubts about a 2-3" cylinder holding up to that kind of force, especially with 20+ inches of stroke. The blade came from the factory with two steel angle locks that are 3/4" thick. There's going to be an awful lot of force on this. Speed isn't a big concern for me- my side link is 3.5" and moves plenty fast, I'm sure a 5" cylinder will be fast enough. Slower than 3.5 for sure, but still much faster than getting off the tractor, unlocking the blade, turning it and relocking it.

    I could be wrong, but all the factory hydraulic blades I've looked at appear to have larger cylinders. Does anyone have a hydraulic blade that they could measure?
    I added a link to a Land Pride Hydraulic blade above.

    Check out this calculator showing how much force a given cylinder can push at a given PSI.

    Cylinder calculator

    I can't remember ever using larger than a 4" bore on the farm. The IH 32' disk that we had used a single 4" x 16" (or maybe 20") to lift it when folded.
    Here is a picture of one of those disks (the picture is probably a 28', but the 32' was the same lift style). This thing took a LOT of punishment from me when going down the road. Lots of bouncing, etc.

    IH 490 Disk Harrow Folded


    Having said this, I'm sure Jason, Kenny, and you know MUCH more about hydraulics than I do....so I wouldn't put much stock in my opinions on this topic
    rtgt and BigJim55 like this.
    (See Tractor Time with Tim's main YouTube channel page)
    Tractor Time with Tim Web site
    Owned:
    2018 Deere 1025R

    Sponsored (subsidized, loaner, etc):
    Ventrac 4500
    Case CX37C
    Deere 5075e
    Deere 2038r
    Deere Gator 835M HVAC

  10. Top | #8
    ddinham's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Last Online
    Today @ 09:04 AM
    Location
    Eastern Kansas
    Posts
    3,669
    Thanks
    167
    Thanked 506 Times in 389 Posts
    My Frontier RB2196H 8ft rear blade does not have a cylinder anywhere near that big. I assume the 5 inch cylinder you are referring to is the bore size?? The rod would be smaller. I have not measured mine, but I would estimate the bore to be about 2 1/2 inches or a little more and the rod to be 1 inch to 1 1/4 inches. I realize this is not as heavy duty blade as yours, but it would seem to me that the 5 inch cylinder would be plenty strong enough. I would not worry about speed. Speed is not essential in this application. Stroke is more important. However, since you are fabricating this yourself, you can compensate for that by building multiple mounting points on the blade, which would give you choices of how much you wanted the blade to move merely by choosing a different mounting point. Also by creating multiple mounting points, you can choose the outer mounting point for extra strength for the really tough jobs. Although this decreases the ability to move the blade as much, it would give you the strength you are looking for. For snow, use the mounting point that allows the most movement and for dirt, use the mounting point that provides the most strength, although the least movement.

    Good Luck.....
    Dave
    Zebrafive, rtgt and BigJim55 like this.
    JD 4066R CAB
    JD H180 FEL with SSQA brackets, JD iMatch, JD Ballast Box & ext, JD pull behind seed spreader
    Frontier RB2196H 8 ft rear blade/hyd angle, Frontier BB1065 Box Blade, Befco 3pt 110 inch RFM
    48" pallet forks, KK 3pt Boom Pole, Northern Tool 3pt middle buster, 2 bottom Dearborn plow
    County Line post hole digger, Rhino 3pt 10ft brush hog, Land Pride 8ft rock rake
    Fit Rite Hydraulics 3pt Top Link, front 3pt adapter for SSQA, 7 1/2 ft Field Roller, 8ft Dearborn tandem disk

  11. Top | #9
    jgayman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Last Online
    Today @ 09:25 AM
    Location
    Central Pennsylvania
    Posts
    10,315
    Thanks
    372
    Thanked 1,703 Times in 1,290 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by ddinham View Post
    For snow, use the mounting point that allows the most movement and for dirt, use the mounting point that provides the most strength, although the least movement.
    My Land Pride with hydraulic angle also has the mechanical pin locks. I use the hydraulic angle for snow and if I need to use it for dirt I remove the cylinder and use the mechanical pin detents.
    BigJim55 likes this.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

  12. Top | #10
    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Last Online
    Today @ 09:25 AM
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    34,884
    Thanks
    5,976
    Thanked 4,101 Times in 3,023 Posts
    Maybe 2 smaller cylinders with a crossover relief valve would be better. One cylinder on either side.
    I can't wrap my head around having to using a 5" cylinder.
    Keith

    JD 2320, 200CX FEL/61" bucket , 46 BH/16" bucket, Artillian Forks, 72" Snow Blade, Landscape Rake, Ballast Box, PHD,
    BX42 Chipper, XUV 560 Gator, Z915B ZTrak

  13. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

Page 1 of 5 1 2 3 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •