Box Scraper the Right Implement?
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    Box Scraper the Right Implement?

    I'm trying to decide what implement is best suited for a project at my hunting property. We've got 110 acres that are centered along a ridge. We have pasture and plots on both sides and ride 4-wheelers, side by sides and tractors all along the hillside. We stick to the edges of the fields, but they're all well up the hill, which makes it a full-body workout on a 4-wheeler, a three-person pileup on the bench seat of a side by side, and just a hairy ride on a tractor. This summer, I'd like to use my inbound 3033R to work the dirt where we ride into a more level and comfortable place to travel.

    My first thought was a box scraper on a tractor equipped with TnT. If I have a large enough scraper (I'm planning on a 66" or 72"), I should able to angle the box in a manner to begin cutting into the hillside to level things out. Would a simple hydraulic rear blade be a better option for this? Or maybe some other implement that I haven't thought of?

    In total, it's about 1,000yds of project and I know it will be many hours of work, but as my kids get old enough to ride out there, I want it to be safe for them.

    I'd love to hear your thoughts.

    Our property includes a large portion of the ridge that runs for NNE to SSW.



    And just for fun to show you what's running around on the property...




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    johnH123's Avatar
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    yep. box blade is a good tool for that.
    - 2002 John Deere 4510 TLB PR,
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    ddinham's Avatar
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    If you can only have one rear implement, it would have to be the box blade as you can use the scarifiers to dig with. If you can swing another implement, get the rear blade also as it offers some options not available with the box blade, such as using it at an angle to move dirt sideways. With the box blade, you can wind up with dirt all along the outer edge of the trail and an angled rear blade can move it quickly back onto the trail.

    Dave
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    56FordGuy's Avatar
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    To level and even out what you have, a box blade or land plane would be a good choice. The box blade can carry more material to fill in low spots, but the land plane will give you a smoother surface. If you could only have one, the box blade is more versatile. The box blade can angle up and down with a side link or front to back with a top link, but can't be angled to put one end further away from the tractor like you could a rear blade to move dirt across the blade.

    For what you want to do, I would consider a rear blade. You can angle it to move dirt sideways, and if you get one with a blade that can be offset to one side you can use that to cut into your hill and widen the road without having to drive the tractor half on the road, half off and attempt to level it with the side link. With any rear grading implement, TnT is a great addition.
    rtgt likes this.
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    coaltrain's Avatar
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    It sounds like you may be needing to cut a level road into a hillside? If that is the case a rear blade will do better.
    ~Stan~
    It is what it is
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    2520 w/200CX w/62D2

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    FWIW - I tilt my boxblade to help grade my ditch by shortening/lengthening the sidelinks to tilt it. One of these days I'll put a full hydraulic 3-link kit on it to get maximum flexibility.

    I think of my boxblade like a swiss army knife - it does all kinds of things.
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    -Scott-

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    flyweight's Avatar
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    A box blade is a useful tool.
    Michael

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    Also have a bunch of other useless stuff.










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    Gee, to really have some input, I'd need to see this first hand....I'll bring my bow!
    rtgt, Treefarmer and Creekdrifter like this.

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    Both. . .

    If I was limited to one implement it would be the best rear blade I could afford and make sure I could offset it. Ideally you could have both the box blade and rear blade. The box blade is useful for starting the initial cut with the scarifiers and move material from a high spot to a low spot. The rear blade will work much better to level out hillsides where you are running along the side of the hill as you can cut into the bank and move dirt to the low side in a continuous ribbon. A FEL will also come in for all sorts of uses if you have that. One word of caution is that if the grade is too steep for an ATV, you will need to be cautious on the tractor as well. One good thing is that both the box and rear blades can have some stabilizing effect. It's really not fun to be on a tractor that's sliding down a hill, at least not for me. I've only tried it a couple of times and didn't like it at all. Nothing bad happened either time except to my nerves. If you have really steep areas, you might consider renting a backhoe or track hoe for those and knock out the dangerous areas first.

    No matter what you use, this will be a long term project with smaller equipment. That just means more seat time!

    Treefarmer
    John Deere 790, 300 loader w Ken's Bolt on Hooks & Piranha tooth bar, grapple, back blade, box blade, Bush Hog mower, couple of red tractors, hay equipment, various old stuff some red, one orange, some I don't remember

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    coaltrain's Avatar
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    If it is in fact cutting into a hillside and 1000 yards+ I would entertain hiring a bulldozer to carve out the initial road. Then a box blade/rear blade will be great for maintaining it.

    When working on a hillside you have to remember the need to provide proper drainage also which an initial run through with a dozer can easily provide.
    dieselshadow, rtgt, BigCSS and 3 others like this.
    ~Stan~
    It is what it is
    Knowledge is power, ignorance is bliss
    2520 w/200CX w/62D2

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