Snow and gravel drives
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    Neb
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    Snow and gravel drives

    Now that the last snowfall has melted here in central Illinois, I can see that the pipe that I put on the edge of the Meyer truck plow didn't prevent all the gravel from being picked up and deposited in the grass. I used some 1.5" diameter pipe and tack welded it to the blade. I'm sure that the pipe helped, but since there was still some gravel that I'll have to put back into the driveway, I'd like to get some advice on how to reduce that. The ground was pretty well frozen when I bladed the 4 - 5" snow, but perhaps the issue was operator technique. I tried to keep some of the weight off the blade, but I found it hard to find a balance of plowing effectiveness vs digging in a little. What is the best diameter of pipe to use? Would a rubber edge work better? I have about 1000 feet of gravel drive, and only a small area of concrete.
    Here's a photo of the setup.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 3320 with plow.JPG  
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    2007 3320 with 300CX Loader
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    Superglidesport's Avatar
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    You'll probably get differing opinions from folks using a "pipe-edge" VS those using a rubber edge on the plow. It's probably inevitable that some gravel is loosened and moved off the drive. Does your plow have skid shoes to keep the blade edge lifted slightly off the surface? In my opinion, unless you want to scrape down to the surface your blade edge should be ~1/4" to 1/2" high. Only way to do this is with skid shoes.

    In my case I use a snowblower and follow-up with a blade in float position to get my paved surface as clean as possible. Then follow-up with ice-melt. I have a hill that likes to ice over.
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    Having the blade out front is great for your neck,,, but,,,

    The position control of the three point hitch does a MUCH better job of not moving gravel,,,
    That is EXACTLY the design intent of the three point,,,

    No pipe, no skids, just careful positioning of the blade stops gravel plowing for me,,


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    Neb
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    Quote Originally Posted by Superglidesport View Post
    You'll probably get differing opinions from folks using a "pipe-edge" VS those using a rubber edge on the plow. It's probably inevitable that some gravel is loosened and moved off the drive. Does your plow have skid shoes to keep the blade edge lifted slightly off the surface? In my opinion, unless you want to scrape down to the surface your blade edge should be ~1/4" to 1/2" high. Only way to do this is with skid shoes.

    In my case I use a snowblower and follow-up with a blade in float position to get my paved surface as clean as possible. Then follow-up with ice-melt. I have a hill that likes to ice over.
    Good point. No, I don't have skid shoes. The brackets are there but I was hoping that I wouldn't need them. My former tractor was an IH 404 and I used a rear blade with skid shoes on it. The skid shoes worked well but I didn't like driving on the snow first.
    pcabe5 and BigJim55 like this.
    2007 3320 with 300CX Loader
    Piranha tooth bar
    Ken's Hooks
    5' box blade
    Forks
    Greens-Machine 'thumb'
    Titan 42" forks
    7.5 foot Meyer truck plow, loader mounted w/Ken's crossover relief valve
    72" 7 iron mid mounted deck
    Kubota post auger
    X485 with 62" deck and Ken's seat spring upgrade

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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    Plow shoes can be your friend. I could be wrong but I would think the added weight of the FEL mount is adding to your dilemma in float mode.
    Keith

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    Neb
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo2 View Post
    Plow shoes can be your friend. I could be wrong but I would think the added weight of the FEL mount is adding to your dilemma in float mode.
    I tried float mode at first but you're right, it was too heavy. That's when I decided to try to manage the blade weight by taking some off using the loader lift. It's beginning to look like I need to think about adding shoes. The used blade that I bought didn't come with them, so I'd also welcome some suggestions on how to make them.
    pcabe5 and BigJim55 like this.
    2007 3320 with 300CX Loader
    Piranha tooth bar
    Ken's Hooks
    5' box blade
    Forks
    Greens-Machine 'thumb'
    Titan 42" forks
    7.5 foot Meyer truck plow, loader mounted w/Ken's crossover relief valve
    72" 7 iron mid mounted deck
    Kubota post auger
    X485 with 62" deck and Ken's seat spring upgrade

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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    Neb, I know you have posted pictures of your plow setup but could you post some/them here also?
    Back of moldboard to the black frame would be good also.
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    Keith

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    BX42 Chipper, XUV 560 Gator, Z915B ZTrak

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    Quote Originally Posted by Neb View Post
    I tried float mode at first but you're right, it was too heavy. That's when I decided to try to manage the blade weight by taking some off using the loader lift. It's beginning to look like I need to think about adding shoes. The used blade that I bought didn't come with them, so I'd also welcome some suggestions on how to make them.
    It's a Meyer blade so you can order the shoe brackets and shoes from any Meyer dealer. You can find shoes all over the net as well. Or you can scan Craigslist for an old beat-up blade and cut the mounts off of it and reuse them. Not sure if you have one near you but there is a local metal scrapyard up here that always has junk plows and they'll let you go in an torch stuff off of them for a few $$.
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    Down & dirty fix? You could weld a couple of skids to the bottom of your pipe edge to set it off the bottom by ~ 1/2"

    Maybe a couple of lengths of 3" wide x 6" long x 3/8" thick bar stock with the front angled up to prevent digging.
    Last edited by Superglidesport; 01-30-2016 at 09:53 AM.
    John Deere 3320
    eHydro, R4's, 300CX Loader, 61" HD Bucket
    JD Tooth Bar, Deluxe Hood Guard, Ken's Bolt-on Hooks
    485 Backhoe w. 18" HD Bucket
    Mid-PTO, Front 3 Point Hitch, 366 Front Blade
    Tarter 5' 3PH Tiller
    Frontier AP12F Forks

    John Deere 2032R
    R3's, 220R Loader, 57" HD Bucket
    Curtis Hard Side Cab & Heater
    62D Deck, iMatch Quick Hitch
    54 Snowblower
    Super HeavyHitch
    Little Wonder "Optimax" & JRCO Blower Buggy
    Fimco 60 Gallon 3PH Boomless Sprayer w. PTO Pump

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    Neb
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo2 View Post
    Neb, I know you have posted pictures of your plow setup but could you post some/them here also?
    Back of moldboard to the black frame would be good also.
    Here is one photo from the operator seat. It shows the unused shoe bracket. It doesn't show the Meyer mechanism very well, but I can find one of that area too.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Blade 2.JPG  
    Gizmo2 and pcabe5 like this.
    2007 3320 with 300CX Loader
    Piranha tooth bar
    Ken's Hooks
    5' box blade
    Forks
    Greens-Machine 'thumb'
    Titan 42" forks
    7.5 foot Meyer truck plow, loader mounted w/Ken's crossover relief valve
    72" 7 iron mid mounted deck
    Kubota post auger
    X485 with 62" deck and Ken's seat spring upgrade

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