2520 w/ Rotomec 200 PHD
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Thread: 2520 w/ Rotomec 200 PHD

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    lost in wisconsin's Avatar
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    2520 w/ Rotomec 200 PHD

    As I posted previously, we are in the process of enclosing our pasture (presently with 2" white tape) with a wooden fence. As we live on top of an old gravel pit, augering holes can be an experience. So far, I would say we have been lucky that we have only come across one large rock (about the size of a basketball) that was 6 inches from the surface and we were able to dig that one out.

    Augering the holes, setting the post and putting up the boards is a slow process as it is only myself right now and I try to tackle it for a couple hours when I get home from work. My routine is to auger a hole, set the post, repeat 2 more times and then screw on the boards. Since it is just me I back the auger over the mark (8 ft away from the previous post), lower the auger to the point where the bit or tip is just touching the ground, take tractor out of gear, set parking break and get off tractor to check plumbness of auger. I actually prefer the top of the auger to be leaning toward the tractor a little bit as when the PHD is lowered the auger will become plumb. I have it to the point where I only need to move the tractor once or twice and still end up with nice holes. Once I am satisfied with the placement and angle of the auger, I start the PTO. Note that at this point, I am off the tractor and standing on the right hand side of the tractor near the rear wheel with my hand on the 3 pt control. I monitor the augering process...ready to lift the auger if it starts digging too deep, moving the tractor ahead when the auger is no longer plumb or shutting off the PTO if I hit a large rock. This has worked well for me until last evening.

    Last night the last hole was augering was quite a bit of rock (2nd pic) everthing from golf ball to softball in size. I lower the auger a few inches, let it work the rocks loose, lower it a few inches, work the rocks loose then shut off the PTO and raise the auger hoping to take at least some of the rocks out and then dig the rest out by hand. I failed to mention previously that when augering, the throttle is set at idle. As I was doing this last evening and the auger was filling up with rocks, it actually choked the tractor. At which point I got on the seat, shut off the PTO, started the tractor and tried to lift the PHD but it would not come up. I then started the PTO while lifting the PHD at the same time. This did raise the auger out of the ground.

    My question is (and I apologize for the long winded intro) whether I should be concerned that the sheer pin, a grade 2 bolt did not break but instead the tractor choked. I recognize that the tractor was it idle and I have choked a tractor before when I was a kid. But that was on a much larger tractor when grinding ground ear corn (which nobody seems to do anymore) and fed too much corn into the hopper too fast.

    I know for a fact it is a grade 2 bolt as I had sheered one previously and had to puchase more within the last 3 weeks. I want to ensure I am not damaging the gears in the PHD or even worse...the 2520.

    Thank you in advance for your feedback,
    lost
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fence 6.jpg   Saukville-20120801-00066.jpg   Saukville-20120801-00067.jpg   Saukville-20120801-00068.jpg  
    2011 JD 2520, 200CX FEL, iMatch Quick Hitch, 48" JD Box Scraper, 54" JD FM Snowblower, Artillian 36" Forks w/Backrest, Frontier PHD200, Woods RM59 Finish Mower & Heavy Hitch

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    Brian's Avatar
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    I would say you did not sheer the pin because you were at idle. I have semi sheered a few PHD bolts and they seem to keep holing on and defying all sense of logic. Then you touch the bolt and they fall apart.

    Is your machine a turbo'ed machine? If so, you would need some boost to get the torque curve going.



    Brian

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    59ApacheDriver's Avatar
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    The PHD200 is good to 40hp, our 2520s only have 20.5hp to the PTO, you should never shear the pin at idle, and would need to lockup the auger at a good throttle, high up in the torque curve to shear of the pin .
    JD 2520, R4 Tires, 62D MMM, 200CX FEL w/61" bucket, JD I-Match, Ballast Box w/Hitch & 4" steel casters, Frontier RB1060L Blade, Frontier RR1072 Rake, Frontier Pallet Forks, Hardtop Canopy, ROPS Brushguard Kit, Aux Forward lights w/ Artillian glare shields, Rear work light, Rear wheel weights, JD Rec. Hitch w/Ball & Clevis draw bar, 3pt Carryall, Ken's Bolt-On Grab Hooks, & Bolt-On Clevis Blocks.

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    lost in wisconsin (08-03-2012)

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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    I would almost think you would stand the tractor up on it's rear wheels before you shear a pin. Been there done that.
    Keith

    JD 2320, 200CX FEL/61" bucket , 46 BH/16" bucket, Artillian Forks, 72" Snow Blade, Landscape Rake, Ballast Box, PHD,
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    glc
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    Holy cow lost,and I thought we had rocky ground. I can't turn a shovel without getting "prizes" with the dirt. Glad for ya that your machine is doing that back breaking work.


    Greg
    Greg from western pa



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    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo2 View Post
    I would almost think you would stand the tractor up on it's rear wheels before you shear a pin. Been there done that.
    I agree to that! I never sheared a pin in a PHD, but have stalled a tractor many times. I just bought an old Dan User from my neighbor and I think I'd shear the PTO shaft off before anything breaks on this baby.

    Also, I find it best to keep the PTO engaged when lifting the auger as it seems to fling the dirt out of the hole better. When I shut the PTO off and lift the auger it just seems to let most of the dirt and rocks fall back in the hole.
    Andy B.

    1966 110 Lawn Tractor
    2012 2520 - DELIVERED 27APR2012!!!

    Tractor that I used to own - 1954 40 Utility
    KB3WPN

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