A New Tooth Bar Question
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Thread: A New Tooth Bar Question

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    Neb
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    A New Tooth Bar Question

    I've been researching tooth bars for a while now, and I think that the Piranha most closely fits my needs. However, there is one small thing that I'm curious about. I think that I'd like to leave the tooth bar on the bucket all the time. But when I remove the loader, the teeth will be contacting the floor during the loader removal process. That in itself is not a big deal; I can put a 2 X 8 under the tooth bar to protect the concrete from the teeth and the teeth from the concrete. But when I look at the design of the Piranha's interface with the bucket, it doesn't appear that it's designed to accept vertical loading like that. Or at least that's my perception. Anyone know if this is an issue or not?
    2007 3320 with 300CX Loader
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neb View Post
    But when I remove the loader, the teeth will be contacting the floor during the loader removal process.
    I'm not clear on why this would be so. When I take my loader off I curl my bucket all the way up/back. The bucket cutting edge ends up sitting off the floor by a good 3". Is that not the case with the 300CX loader as well?
    D160 Mower/Bagger.
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    HydroHarold's Avatar
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    I think that my Piranha toothbar will stand up to anything that the loader can possibly do. Offing and onning the loader doesn't put much strain on the front edge at all compared to some of the stuff I've done working it.

    One suggestion for installation: File/grind down any major dings in the original cutting edge. This is where you want to get the most tight fit all the way across to spread out weight/shock loads. Fit the bar on into the slots as far as you can (a bit of hammer applied if necessary), clamp it in and mark the drill holes. You'll LOVE it!!
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    Quote Originally Posted by HydroHarold View Post
    One suggestion for installation: File/grind down any major dings in the original cutting edge. This is where you want to get the most tight fit all the way across to spread out weight/shock loads. Fit the bar on into the slots as far as you can (a bit of hammer applied if necessary), clamp it in and mark the drill holes. You'll LOVE it!!
    And DON'T follow the instructions and drill the specified 3/4" hole for the provided 5/8" bolt.
    Last edited by TheOtherChris; 04-25-2016 at 03:00 AM.
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    Nothing to worry about at all. I also have a 3320 w. 300 CX loader. When the loader is removed my toothbar is raised off the deck. Additionally, these toothbars are very rugged. The material is heavier than that used to build the bucket.
    John Deere 3320
    eHydro, R4's, 300CX Loader, 61" HD Bucket
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    Neb
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    Thanks, guys, for the input. Just for further clarification on what I was trying to say with words, here is an image from the 300CX owners manual showing the position that they say the bucket should be in for loader removal:
    And the partial text for their instructions:
    2. Be sure loader is equipped with a materials bucket.

    3. Start tractor engine.

    4. Release parking brake and/or place transmission in NEUTRAL.

    5. Dump bucket 10°-20° and lower to ground.

    6. Retract lift cylinders raising front wheels 25-50 mm (1-2 in.) off ground. (Do not retract lift cylinders completely.)


    With your input I'm more comfortable with the procedure now. I'm still planning on using a board to pad the concrete though.

    Thanks!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails loader.gif  
    rtgt likes this.
    2007 3320 with 300CX Loader
    Piranha tooth bar
    Ken's Hooks
    5' box blade
    Forks
    Greens-Machine 'thumb'
    Titan 42" forks
    7.5 foot Meyer truck plow, loader mounted w/Ken's crossover relief valve
    72" 7 iron mid mounted deck
    Kubota post auger
    X485 with 62" deck and Ken's seat spring upgrade

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