Roller cart for a rotary cutter.. this for my mx6
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Thread: Roller cart for a rotary cutter.. this for my mx6

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    Brian's Avatar
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    Roller cart for a rotary cutter.. this for my mx6

    For a long time I have wanted to make my rotary cutter a bit more mobile in the barn. I have been back and forth with metal and wood, but this plan is for wood. I need to be able to support the full 1100 pounds as I do not want the tail wheel on the ground. I have tested it with moving carts and the tail wheel seems to fight you when rolling.

    So I was thinking 4x4's at first but bolting the 4" casters seemed to dictate a 6" wide structure. So my thought was to stack 2 2x6's on top of each other. This also allows me to stagger them to get more strength.

    Then i thought about running a 2x6 upright to create an edge to keep the rc on the roller. Maybe not needed, but also helps you set it on the cart square.

    My issue now is attaching the 4" rollers. I assume they would need to be bolted on. I also assume the nuts would be on top and maybe counter sunk into the top to allow for a flat surface. But I fear taking away strength.

    Please take a look at my poor drawings and let me know your ideas.



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    Brian

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    green and red man's Avatar
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    How about just building a wooden version of a car dolly? You could always clamp the cutter to the dollies. I built some out of 2x12's & casters to get an old car(55 Chevy) out of my shop. The top layer of 2x12's were run lengthwise and side by side once I had an idea of the length needed. Don't recall what the measurements were. The bottom layer of 2x12's were run perpendicular to the top. Both layers were screwed together using deck screws. If I hadn't been in a rush, I would have used countersunk bolts & nuts instead.

    If you have a gravel floor, well, then you'd need some sort of pneumatic casters of larger diameter than what I used.

    But, if your barn does have a cement floor, Northern Tool has some heavy duty pry levers with steel wheels. One has a 55" long handle and the other a 72". Item#14844-2206 and item#14849-2206. This idea would involve using the tail wheel to carry part of the weight. But after remembering what you said about having to fight it, then that idea might not work.




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    jenkinsph's Avatar
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    Brian I think your plan will work but I would suggest adding some 3/4" plywood triangles (gussets) layed flat to each corner. This would provide a better surface to fasten the dolly wheels to without splitting and would act to tie the 2x6 splices together too. Thinking the triangles need to be about 16x16 inches.
    Steve,


    4520, 110tlb, 820, X749
    Enough attachments. Why don't I realize this?

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    GTT Vendor Artillian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian View Post
    My issue now is attaching the 4" rollers. I assume they would need to be bolted on. I also assume the nuts would be on top and maybe counter sunk into the top to allow for a flat surface. But I fear taking away strength.
    Brian,

    Why do you need to c'sink screws? Just use carriage bolts, no? That's what I've done with wooden carts. The carriage bolt head is nearly flat when pulled into the wood by tightening the nut against the caster.
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    another tip for sinking carrage bolts is to run a spade bit in the drilled hole. just doing it a lil bit helps a lot when drawing them down.

    That is if you need them to be flush or below without totally crushing the wood.
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    mjncad's Avatar
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    Countersinking the bolt heads won't take that much wood away to impact strength. The biggest thing impacting strength in my opinion will be splits, checks, and knots in the wood. You'll be spreading the weight out over a large area, so point loads will just be where the casters meet the floor. Personally I would just lag-screw the casters to the wood. Figure four lags per caster, and you're spreading the load out quite evenly.

    Just build it and be done with it.
    I have more ideas than ambition.


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    Brian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Artillian View Post
    Brian,

    Why do you need to c'sink screws? Just use carriage bolts, no? That's what I've done with wooden carts. The carriage bolt head is nearly flat when pulled into the wood by tightening the nut against the caster.
    I was not sure I would have room for the nuts by the caster wheels so the carriage bolt head was going to be down there, but now i see I should have room. No need to counter sink.



    Brian

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    GTT Vendor Artillian's Avatar
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    Plenty of room. Just be sure to drill from the caster side of the wood assembly so the holes line up. Who cares where the carriage heads land.

    I know this is painfully obvious, but surprisingly counter intuitive so possibly forgotten when in the process of doing the work.
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    Brian's Avatar
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    Perfect, Thanks Chris



    Brian

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