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    Bunk Dolly

    I recently added a pine needle rake from Everything Attachments to my implements. I will be using it for dethatching my natural grass areas and to clean up twigs and tumbleweeds. I like the rake, but it does pose a storage challenge. While I had the rake spread all over the garage during assembly, my wife commented that it didn't look like the garage was going to be big enough to eventually add a backhoe. Bad Karma. Must make rake disappear.

    Previously, I had built a dolly for my front blade which is similar in length to the rake. I build dollies for all of my implements and ballast. I don't have a place to store each piece. When there's a change-out on the tractor, whatever comes off it must fit into the space of whatever went onto it. This usually requires shuffling things around like a giant puzzle. And this is easy if they are all on wheels. I also like to design the dollies for smooth, direct loading and unloading on the tractor. This way the change-out process is fast and doesn't require a lot of lifting, wrestling, and dragging.

    So I set out to modify my existing dolly for my front blade to include an upper bunk for the rake. The challenge in this task was in the height of the new dolly. It must be tall enough to make room for moving the blade in and out of the lower bunk, yet short enough for the 3-point arms to connect to the rake when removing or placing it on the top bunk. My initial calculations showed that the 3-pt lower arms were a few inches short at their maximum lift height. I considered 3 options: (1) Reverse the ends of the lower 3-pt arms to increase the lift height. (2) Use a jack to lift the rear end of the tractor 3 inches. (3) Drive the rear of the tractor onto ramps to lift the back end. I was not sure #1 would provide enough increased height, and changing these arms out each time is tedious. I was leery of #2 because it might be unstable during an implement change. So I opted for #3. I had some 2" ramps that I tried, but the lower arm lift came up about 1/4" short to allow the dolly to move underneath the rake. I priced wide ramps (for trucks) at about $40 per pair, and ended up making my own out of 2 X 12 pieces for about $10. These new ramps are 3" high, and the dolly easily fits under the rake with at least 1 inch to spare. I also added slots on the final dolly so that the ramps could be stored on it with the blade and the rake.

    The original dolly had 2" steel wheels. Above about a hundred pounds on a dolly, these wheels get stuck in expansion joints on the driveway and garage floor. I had another dolly where I added weight and went to change from 2 inch wheels to 3 inches. I installed the 3 inch wheels before removing the 2 inch wheels and tested it. I learned that the height difference of these 2" and 3" wheels is exactly the depth of a 2 X 4. So all wheels are touching when both 2" and 3" are installed on a corner. I also noticed that these wheel pairs went over expansion joints very smoothly. This is because one wheel supports the load while the other one traverses the joint. I was concerned about this new dolly being top heavy with the rake up so high (especially when the blade was not in the lower bunk.) So having smooth movement across the joints in the concrete was important and worth the extra set of wheels on each corner. I also added stabilizer wheels for use during transport to minimize the chance of tipping sideways. My testing indicates that they are nice to have but maybe not a requirement. The rake sits firmly on the top bunk and I didn't sense any tipping tendency with or without the stabilizer.

    So, with the new dolly I have 2 implements stored in about the same footprint as one was stored in before. One new rake, no net increase in space required. Good Karma for the backhoe.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails bd1.jpg bd2.jpg bd3.jpg bd4.jpg bd5.jpg

    bd6.jpg bd7.jpg bd8.jpg bd9.jpg bd10.jpg

    RandyM, Gizmo2, North585 and 26 others like this.
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    1.5 X lift at 3-point

    For anyone interested, the attached diagram shows how lifting the rear axle gives you 1.5X in increased lift height at the 3-point lift arms.

    Keane
    Attached Files Attached Files
    RandyM, felixm22 and DeerePilot like this.
    1025R SCUT
    H120 FEL
    260 Backhoe
    54D MMM
    54 Snow Blower
    54 Front Blade
    JD I-match
    10P Dump Cart
    Heavy Hitch: Receiver hitch w/rack, 2" receiver 8-Weight Rack, 2" front & rear receivers, synthetic blade
    Ken's BOGH: Grab Hooks/ Clevis Mounts, Oblong Ring Slings, Differential Pedal, backhoe step, etc.
    Everything Attachments: Pine Needle Rake, Aerator
    Bxpanded: Ripper Claw, Trenching Bucket, Quick Change for 260 BH
    Artillian: 3K fork frame & 36" tines
    Miller Tire: R4 tire chains

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  8. Top | #4

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    Well thought out dolly.

    Quote Originally Posted by keane View Post
    I recently added a pine needle rake from Everything Attachments to my implements. I will be using it for dethatching my natural grass areas and to clean up twigs and tumbleweeds. I like the rake, but it does pose a storage challenge. While I had the rake spread all over the garage during assembly, my wife commented that it didn't look like the garage was going to be big enough to eventually add a backhoe. Bad Karma. Must make rake disappear.

    Previously, I had built a dolly for my front blade which is similar in length to the rake. I build dollies for all of my implements and ballast. I don't have a place to store each piece. When there's a change-out on the tractor, whatever comes off it must fit into the space of whatever went onto it. This usually requires shuffling things around like a giant puzzle. And this is easy if they are all on wheels. I also like to design the dollies for smooth, direct loading and unloading on the tractor. This way the change-out process is fast and doesn't require a lot of lifting, wrestling, and dragging.

    So I set out to modify my existing dolly for my front blade to include an upper bunk for the rake. The challenge in this task was in the height of the new dolly. It must be tall enough to make room for moving the blade in and out of the lower bunk, yet short enough for the 3-point arms to connect to the rake when removing or placing it on the top bunk. My initial calculations showed that the 3-pt lower arms were a few inches short at their maximum lift height. I considered 3 options: (1) Reverse the ends of the lower 3-pt arms to increase the lift height. (2) Use a jack to lift the rear end of the tractor 3 inches. (3) Drive the rear of the tractor onto ramps to lift the back end. I was not sure #1 would provide enough increased height, and changing these arms out each time is tedious. I was leery of #2 because it might be unstable during an implement change. So I opted for #3. I had some 2" ramps that I tried, but the lower arm lift came up about 1/4" short to allow the dolly to move underneath the rake. I priced wide ramps (for trucks) at about $40 per pair, and ended up making my own out of 2 X 12 pieces for about $10. These new ramps are 3" high, and the dolly easily fits under the rake with at least 1 inch to spare. I also added slots on the final dolly so that the ramps could be stored on it with the blade and the rake.

    The original dolly had 2" steel wheels. Above about a hundred pounds on a dolly, these wheels get stuck in expansion joints on the driveway and garage floor. I had another dolly where I added weight and went to change from 2 inch wheels to 3 inches. I installed the 3 inch wheels before removing the 2 inch wheels and tested it. I learned that the height difference of these 2" and 3" wheels is exactly the depth of a 2 X 4. So all wheels are touching when both 2" and 3" are installed on a corner. I also noticed that these wheel pairs went over expansion joints very smoothly. This is because one wheel supports the load while the other one traverses the joint. I was concerned about this new dolly being top heavy with the rake up so high (especially when the blade was not in the lower bunk.) So having smooth movement across the joints in the concrete was important and worth the extra set of wheels on each corner. I also added stabilizer wheels for use during transport to minimize the chance of tipping sideways. My testing indicates that they are nice to have but maybe not a requirement. The rake sits firmly on the top bunk and I didn't sense any tipping tendency with or without the stabilizer.

    So, with the new dolly I have 2 implements stored in about the same footprint as one was stored in before. One new rake, no net increase in space required. Good Karma for the backhoe.
    nicely done. Good balance is key to implement dollies.
    Rope_Chucker likes this.
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    I thought I was doing well when I got some pallets to set my implements on to keep them out of the dirt. You have taken it to a whole new level!
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    Bunk Dolly II

    At this point, adding implements requires that I figure out where Im going to put them before I buy them. On GTT I had seen a FEL dolly that also stored the forks with the bucket. As I looked into this, I became wary of adding that much weight to the FEL dolly. With everything on there, it would be in excess of 800 lbs. So I started looking for other options and I decided to bunk my forks with my snow blower.

    With the 6, 3-inch wheels, this dolly moves easily at about 400 lbs. The first time I loaded the forks on the dolly, it took a few minutes. But I marked the level bucket indicator so that I can easily get the forks level at the right elevation. This will make it much faster.

    The tine holders attached to the bottom of the dolly are barn door hardware. I found them at 3 different local farm and ranch supply stores. At one store they were half the price of the others.

    Stability is a big issue on this dolly. I did not want the forks to tip over when the snow blower was removed. The front middle wheel is positioned outside the center of gravity of the forks to prevent this from happening.

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    Kennyd, North585, Bubber and 2 others like this.
    1025R SCUT
    H120 FEL
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    54D MMM
    54 Snow Blower
    54 Front Blade
    JD I-match
    10P Dump Cart
    Heavy Hitch: Receiver hitch w/rack, 2" receiver 8-Weight Rack, 2" front & rear receivers, synthetic blade
    Ken's BOGH: Grab Hooks/ Clevis Mounts, Oblong Ring Slings, Differential Pedal, backhoe step, etc.
    Everything Attachments: Pine Needle Rake, Aerator
    Bxpanded: Ripper Claw, Trenching Bucket, Quick Change for 260 BH
    Artillian: 3K fork frame & 36" tines
    Miller Tire: R4 tire chains

  13. Top | #7

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    Storing the bunk dollies together

    The size and shape of the two bunk dollies permits them to be stored very tightly together, consuming less than 22 square feet of floor storage space. A small modification to the snow blower is required.

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    1025R SCUT
    H120 FEL
    260 Backhoe
    54D MMM
    54 Snow Blower
    54 Front Blade
    JD I-match
    10P Dump Cart
    Heavy Hitch: Receiver hitch w/rack, 2" receiver 8-Weight Rack, 2" front & rear receivers, synthetic blade
    Ken's BOGH: Grab Hooks/ Clevis Mounts, Oblong Ring Slings, Differential Pedal, backhoe step, etc.
    Everything Attachments: Pine Needle Rake, Aerator
    Bxpanded: Ripper Claw, Trenching Bucket, Quick Change for 260 BH
    Artillian: 3K fork frame & 36" tines
    Miller Tire: R4 tire chains

  14. Top | #8

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    Bunk Dolly 3 -- Storage for Fertilizer Spreader

    I've been trying to decide on a fertilizer spreader for over a year now. I've spent a lot of time looking at 3-point spreaders. Riding seemed like more fun than pushing a manual spreader. But I only have a little more than 1/2 acre that will be fertilized. The grass areas surround the house and the borders are irregular. I was having a tough time with the 30 foot spread width. I know you can lower the PTO speed and get a narrower spread, but it would all be trial and error. I couldn't find any specifics on this. And once you lower the throttle to change the PTO speed, you've changed the speed of the tractor which also affects the amount of material spread for a given area. By the time I figured all of this out, I think I could just walk the area with a manual spreader about 3 times. And by the next time I needed to fertilize, I'd have forgotten a lot of the tactical details. I also believed that it was impossible to create a spreading pattern that would not required the tractor to pass through areas that had already been fertilized. So then I'd have to thoroughly wash the tractor at the end of the job. Fertilizer is very corrosive. The manual spreader just kept looking better and better.

    The new spreader has bigger wheels and two handles. This is important for the rough ground where it must operate. The large hopper also will reduce the number of "reload" stops. The spread width is about 12 feet, which is twice that of the smaller spreader. Considering all the improved features, I'm expecting to cut the job time at least in half.

    New and old spreaders are shown below:

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    I also had to consider where to store it. My garage is getting tighter and tighter, so I can't add anything without a creative approach to storing it. I decided that my aerator dolly could be a candidate for a new bunk dolly. I was trying to figure out how to add structure to it to support the spreader up high. I concluded that the aerator itself was an adequate structure. It just needed a minor modification to properly secure the spreader sufficiently when the dolly is stationary and also when it is moving over joints in the concrete floor.


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    The spreader is not really heavy, so one person can get it up there and get it down. I taped a split piece of rubber hose (1" ID) to the point of the spreader's parking stand so that there is no paint-to-paint contact during storage or loading/unloading. With fertilizer around, keeping the paint in place is important.
    1025R SCUT
    H120 FEL
    260 Backhoe
    54D MMM
    54 Snow Blower
    54 Front Blade
    JD I-match
    10P Dump Cart
    Heavy Hitch: Receiver hitch w/rack, 2" receiver 8-Weight Rack, 2" front & rear receivers, synthetic blade
    Ken's BOGH: Grab Hooks/ Clevis Mounts, Oblong Ring Slings, Differential Pedal, backhoe step, etc.
    Everything Attachments: Pine Needle Rake, Aerator
    Bxpanded: Ripper Claw, Trenching Bucket, Quick Change for 260 BH
    Artillian: 3K fork frame & 36" tines
    Miller Tire: R4 tire chains

  15. Top | #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by keane View Post
    I've been trying to decide on a fertilizer spreader for over a year now. I've spent a lot of time looking at 3-point spreaders. Riding seemed like more fun than pushing a manual spreader. But I only have a little more than 1/2 acre that will be fertilized. The grass areas surround the house and the borders are irregular. I was having a tough time with the 30 foot spread width. I know you can lower the PTO speed and get a narrower spread, but it would all be trial and error. I couldn't find any specifics on this. And once you lower the throttle to change the PTO speed, you've changed the speed of the tractor which also affects the amount of material spread for a given area. By the time I figured all of this out, I think I could just walk the area with a manual spreader about 3 times. And by the next time I needed to fertilize, I'd have forgotten a lot of the tactical details. I also believed that it was impossible to create a spreading pattern that would not required the tractor to pass through areas that had already been fertilized. So then I'd have to thoroughly wash the tractor at the end of the job. Fertilizer is very corrosive. The manual spreader just kept looking better and better.

    The new spreader has bigger wheels and two handles. This is important for the rough ground where it must operate. The large hopper also will reduce the number of "reload" stops. The spread width is about 12 feet, which is twice that of the smaller spreader. Considering all the improved features, I'm expecting to cut the job time at least in half.

    New and old spreaders are shown below:

    Click image for larger version.

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    I also had to consider where to store it. My garage is getting tighter and tighter, so I can't add anything without a creative approach to storing it. I decided that my aerator dolly could be a candidate for a new bunk dolly. I was trying to figure out how to add structure to it to support the spreader up high. I concluded that the aerator itself was an adequate structure. It just needed a minor modification to properly secure the spreader sufficiently when the dolly is stationary and also when it is moving over joints in the concrete floor.


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    The spreader is not really heavy, so one person can get it up there and get it down. I taped a split piece of rubber hose (1" ID) to the point of the spreader's parking stand so that there is no paint-to-paint contact during storage or loading/unloading. With fertilizer around, keeping the paint in place is important.
    Keane, do you ever get time to use your tractor? With all the building of dollys. Just kidding. You have by far some of the best designs and best looking dollies I've seen. I'd bet your next favorite hobby is woodworking. Just out of curiosity, do you store any of your equipment on heavy duty shelving?
    Greg

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  17. Top | #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by jdforever View Post
    Keane, do you ever get time to use your tractor? With all the building of dollys. Just kidding. You have by far some of the best designs and best looking dollies I've seen. I'd bet your next favorite hobby is woodworking. Just out of curiosity, do you store any of your equipment on heavy duty shelving?
    I've never been accused of being a woodworker before. My wood projects are all garage related. I could only think of one thing in the house that I've done in wood, and that was to put up an oak hand railing for the stairway from the garage to the basement. I have some heavy duty shelving in the basement, but nothing as big as you are thinking. My garage does not really have space for it. I have the forks for my tractor. Someday I'm hoping for a separate tractor shed at the back of the property. If I do that, I like the idea of shelving. The shed would be primarily used for implements and maintenance. My wife doesn't like the smell of paint, so it would be a good place to spray paint. I think I'd still keep the tractor in the garage and do any winter maintenance in there. My garage is insulated and has a bedroom over it, so it rarely goes below 50 degrees even on the coldest of days. The shed wouldn't be insulated or have a heat source.

    I use my tractor a lot. I would love to have more than one so that I wasn't always re-configuring it for the next job. The dollies are my way of making changes quickly, efficiently, and without a lot of effort. It is frustrating if the changeover takes more time than the tractor project itself. Tempered with keeping it safe, I challenge myself to see how quickly I can make a change when it's needed.

    Thanks for the kind words.
    jdforever, wentonbrown and PJR832 like this.
    1025R SCUT
    H120 FEL
    260 Backhoe
    54D MMM
    54 Snow Blower
    54 Front Blade
    JD I-match
    10P Dump Cart
    Heavy Hitch: Receiver hitch w/rack, 2" receiver 8-Weight Rack, 2" front & rear receivers, synthetic blade
    Ken's BOGH: Grab Hooks/ Clevis Mounts, Oblong Ring Slings, Differential Pedal, backhoe step, etc.
    Everything Attachments: Pine Needle Rake, Aerator
    Bxpanded: Ripper Claw, Trenching Bucket, Quick Change for 260 BH
    Artillian: 3K fork frame & 36" tines
    Miller Tire: R4 tire chains

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