Skid Steer Pallet Forks
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    Johndeere3720's Avatar
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    Skid Steer Pallet Forks

    It's been a long time in the waiting but yesterday I picked up my custom made skid steer pallet forks. They are very well built, 48" long forks with holes cut at the end (great for a trailer ball), and an extra wide heavy duty frame. :D I snapped a few pictures after I picked them up, I am gonna paint them myself to save some $$. They had some rust on them, the frame overall was really pretty clean, just a few spots I needed to touch up. This morning i got the wire brush out and went to town on them, they looked so good that if rust didn't exist I would have left them bare. Once I had them cleaned to my liking I set them on some saw horses and laid down a coat of primer. Now I am in the waiting interval before I can start painting. More to come later!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 054.JPG   053.JPG   002.JPG   003.JPG   006.JPG  

    007.JPG   010.JPG  
    2004 John Deere 317
    66" bucket, forks, imatch adapter plate, Bobcat 72" Landplane, 60" 4 in 1 tooth bucket
    2005 John Deere L118
    42" deck, bagger
    2004 Bobcat 430
    4 buckets, brush rake, ripper, concrete breaker

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    robpm's Avatar
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    they look nice. They will look real nice with that final coat as well especially once you can start to use them.
    Rob

    second owner of '05' John Deere 990 CUT with the following:
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    Zebrafive's Avatar
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    Normally there is a notch in the center of the bottom rail so you can take the forks off. You might want to add that before you get to far in painting them. Nice forks they look longer than 48"
    J
    John Deere 2030 w/245SL Loader
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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zebrafive View Post
    Normally there is a notch in the center of the bottom rail so you can take the forks off. You might want to add that before you get to far in painting them. Nice forks they look longer than 48"
    X1...You want want to be able to remove the forks...
    Kenny

    -John Deere 3720 Deluxe Cab TLB
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    Johndeere3720's Avatar
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    Thanks guys! I was thinking about cutting a notch out of the middle but I didn't because the lock on top of each fork was removed so they slide side to side indefinitely. We'll see how that goes, I can always cut the bottom notch as well as a few in the top if they slide too bad however as they sit they seem to be a pretty tight fit. I also just came in from giving it the second coat of black paint. It looks great, but it will look better attached to my Deere. Now it's back to waiting for paint to dry, hopefully I can get the forks on my 317 in the next day or two. More to come!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 011.JPG   012.JPG   014.JPG  
    2004 John Deere 317
    66" bucket, forks, imatch adapter plate, Bobcat 72" Landplane, 60" 4 in 1 tooth bucket
    2005 John Deere L118
    42" deck, bagger
    2004 Bobcat 430
    4 buckets, brush rake, ripper, concrete breaker

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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    Nice paint job Jake, what are you using (brand/process)?

    If you do add the notch, you can always make a bolt in "stop" to keep them from coming off accidentally.
    Kenny

    -John Deere 3720 Deluxe Cab TLB
    FEL, MMM, Artillian 42" Forks and Modular Grapple, I-Match, Ballast Box, and lots of other STUFF.
    -John Deere 455 w/60" MMM


    Bolt on Grab Hooks and other cool stuff are now for sale!!

    Visit our YouTube Channel

    My Equipment:
    John Deere 3720 Deluxe Cab, 300cx FEL, 366 Front Blade, 59" Front Snowblower, Ballast Box
    Artillian 3K Forks, Grapple, Front-Hoe Bucket
    John Deere 455, 60" MMM

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    Johndeere3720's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kennyd View Post
    Nice paint job Jake, what are you using (brand/process)?

    If you do add the notch, you can always make a bolt in "stop" to keep them from coming off accidentally.
    I used Valspar high gloss implement paint. I did 2 coats, 1st was light where you could still see some primer, second just covered up the rest of the primer. The instructions stated "additional coats must be applied before 4 hours or after 36 hours". So I gave the first coat about an hour to sit in the sun, I checked to see if the paint was still tacky before laying down the second coat. I cant say I am the greatest painter in the world, but I think it came out okay, much better than some of the things I have painted in the past. Kenny I really like the idea of a bolt on stop in the middle, I may look into that in the near future.
    2004 John Deere 317
    66" bucket, forks, imatch adapter plate, Bobcat 72" Landplane, 60" 4 in 1 tooth bucket
    2005 John Deere L118
    42" deck, bagger
    2004 Bobcat 430
    4 buckets, brush rake, ripper, concrete breaker

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    Johndeere3720's Avatar
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    I finally finished the forks! They looked so dull with nothing on them, so I grabbed an "American Made" decal I use for my rakes and my white marker to fix that. The decal looks great in the center, it gives the forks some color but since it is only 1 sticker it still shows their simplicity. American Made just states the quality that went in to making these forks. I also wrote today's date on the back of the forks in the lower right corner, now I can track their age through the years of use. And finally, I checked a couple measurements, the forks max out at 54" wide and (I double checked) the forks themselves are 48" long. Now I just need to get them on my machine and put them to work.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 015.JPG   022.JPG   017.JPG   018.JPG  
    2004 John Deere 317
    66" bucket, forks, imatch adapter plate, Bobcat 72" Landplane, 60" 4 in 1 tooth bucket
    2005 John Deere L118
    42" deck, bagger
    2004 Bobcat 430
    4 buckets, brush rake, ripper, concrete breaker

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    jd1023epro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johndeere3720 View Post
    I finally finished the forks! They looked so dull with nothing on them, so I grabbed an "American Made" decal I use for my rakes and my white marker to fix that. The decal looks great in the center, it gives the forks some color but since it is only 1 sticker it still shows their simplicity. American Made just states the quality that went in to making these forks. I also wrote today's date on the back of the forks in the lower right corner, now I can track their age through the years of use. And finally, I checked a couple measurements, the forks max out at 54" wide and (I double checked) the forks themselves are 48" long. Now I just need to get them on my machine and put them to work.
    where did you get the sticker from?

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    56FordGuy's Avatar
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    Jake, the forks look great. You're off to a mighty impressive start.

    I just want to chime in on the fork notch the others have mentioned. As it sits now, you have no way to remove the forks. Most commercial forklifts are set up just like yours are, but the difference is the very bottom rail that the fork hanger fits around has a 3-4" wide notch somewhere close to the center. You slide the fork over that notch, lift the bottom out and then the top hanger off.

    It's uncommon for the forks to come off accidentally. The forks themselves would have to be worn out, or the carriage/ fork frame to be damaged. I certainly wouldn't worry about them shifting over and falling off because you added a removal notch. When in use, the weight of the load usually puts enough pressure on them to keep from shifting. The stress is concentrated on the thick part of the fork upright that hits the front of the bottom bar, and the top hook. If you do find the forks sliding around when you're driving along empty, you can notch out the top rail in different places and install fork pins. They would go through the hole you see when looking down at the top hangers, and are spring loaded to stay in place.

    You certainly could drill and tap a hole in the center of the bottom bar, above your removal notch if you wanted the extra security. A bolt in that hole would prevent the fork from being fully over the removal notch, so there would be no possibility of it coming off. Some particular applications of commercial lifts have these, though they're really unnecessary. If you go that route, be sure to use at least a 1/2" diameter Allen head bolt. If you use a normal hex head, the forks pushing up against it as you adjust them over time will round off the corners and make it difficult if not impossible to remove when you want to. The internal fit of Allen heads prevents that.

    The extra security bolt isn't necessary, but certainly won't hurt. The only downside to it is that you can't slide both forks to one side without removing it.

    One last note, I would advise against using the holes in your forks for anything but very, very light work. It sounds hard to believe, but those forks can bend or the tips can break off at the hole. Always use both forks together if you can, even if it means sliding them right up against each other. A safer approach would be to build a hitch ball plate to slide onto the forks or fit directly onto the fork carriage, and you could even put a receiver tube on it instead of a ball so you could swap hitch balls or other things into it.

    Overall, you've got a really good looking set of forks that you should be very happy with!
    -Blake

    Your mileage may vary.

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