Mower blades
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    Mower blades

    Im thinking I am needing to replace my rotary mower blades but wonder if they could be sharpen? Also I mow in the woods thus I run into limbs and stumps sometimes.

    My problem stems from when I am in some thick grass the mower wants to clog up..but this tractor is a 5205 and should cut through it with no problem at 2000 rpms.

    Any opinions
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    Blades aren't that hard to sharpen. I've used a grinding wheel for years to sharpen mine. (You have to take them off the mower to do this.) If you keep up with sharpening them regularly, there are sharpening tools on Amazon that work well. Type "Smith's mower blade sharpener" into Amazon's search box.

    But if you have a really rough edge and dents from hitting things, it may be best to replace them. Use a block of wood jammed in one blade to keep them all from turning when you are bolting or unbolting them. Note which way they go on before you take them off. I put an X on the side I can see from the bottom so that I'm sure to get them back on right. And make sure you look up the torque spec for your blades and use it to torque them back on. Under-torquing them or over-torquing them can make them come off and create a hazard.
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    meyerld's Avatar
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    I raise the mower up with the 3 point hitch hydraulics then block it and sharpen the blades with a battery operated angle grinder and a metal grinding wheel. It is very quick and doing it this way avoids the need for removing the blades. It takes me longer to carefully block all four corners of the mower for safety than the actual blade sharpening. The problem I have is judging how much to sharpen them because the new blades are actually not sharp at all, but blunt.

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    56Nine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by keane View Post
    .... Under-torquing them or over-torquing them can make them come off and create a hazard.
    Under-torquing I get, but over? We removed the blades to sharpen them all the time and when replacing them we NEVER torqued the bolts (I know now this was bad) but would tighten them with a cheater on a 3/4" drive socket. Our torque spec was "as tight as we could". Over torquing causing failure on this set up is something we never considered.
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    If you take a fastner past it's maximum point of elasticity you weaken it and reduce it's clamping force.

    A bolt is like a spring, as a kid did you ever stretch out the spring in a click pen. When you put the pen back together the spring was weaker.

    In factory setting critical fasteners like those on a mower blade are often torque to yield. The DC tool tracks the force curve and when it flattens just before The force to turn it drops it stops. That level point just before yield is maximum clamp force. In the field most torque to yields are translated to a torque plus angle.
    Last edited by MeagerHair; 07-24-2016 at 07:32 AM.
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    I am thinking it would be difficult to over torque a blade bolt. Aren't they ususally grade 8?
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    Good point Randy. You are upwards of 600 ft pounds. So maybe the Rock on the end of a 6 ft cheater, if the cheater didn't bend first.
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    Quote Originally Posted by RandyM View Post
    I am thinking it would be difficult to over torque a blade bolt. Aren't they ususally grade 8?
    This is a valid point. But I suspect that most people who "field modify" specifications like blade bolt torque aren't doing it because they have the engineering knowledge of the components to make that decision. The other question to be considered: What "grade" are the metal threads that the bolt is fastened into? This metal would be under the same stress, and it would make sense in the design for it to be of comparable strength. But I've seen similar oversights in designs before, and I'm not aware of any markings on the female threads to help a guy like me make this call.
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    Quote Originally Posted by keane View Post
    This is a valid point. But I suspect that most people who "field modify" specifications like blade bolt torque aren't doing it because they have the engineering knowledge of the components to make that decision. The other question to be considered: What "grade" are the metal threads that the bolt is fastened into? This metal would be under the same stress, and it would make sense in the design for it to be of comparable strength. But I've seen similar oversights in designs before, and I'm not aware of any markings on the female threads to help a guy like me make this call.
    All reasons to just torque to spec. I always put a torque wrench to all the important stuff.
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    Reminds me of the boom arm mower I used to run for the state. It was a brush hog style head with 2 blades - just like a regular brush hog but hydraulically driven.

    600 ft lbs of torque for the blades which needed to be checked every day before running.
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