380A front blade angle cylinder help
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    380A front blade angle cylinder help

    Looking for suggestions on replacement 380 front blade angling cylinders for my 755. Took in to have seals replaced and was told the barrel was very rusty. Deere price for barrel was $300+ each and complete cylinder was close to $600 each. Any non-Deere replacement recommendations or anyone have some for sale?

    Or any cross-reference help with Deere part number PT5130 either with another Deere part that could work or other supplier?

    Or help with specs of the angling cylinders to help with replacement options?

    Thank you!
    Last edited by hrududu; 09-23-2016 at 11:50 AM.

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    Drifterbike's Avatar
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    I see the angling cylinder and hoses for a 1025R on ebay for 169.00 new in box. when i bought mine from deere in july it was 185.00 Any way these can work. I dont think they would be too different. At deere often you can what you need through "Whole Goods" cheaper than the parts department. Good Luck
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    We will need specs on the cylinders. Retracted and extended length from the center of the eyes along with body and ram diameter. There may be an aftermarket option that will work.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 56FordGuy View Post
    We will need specs on the cylinders. Retracted and extended length from the center of the eyes along with body and ram diameter. There may be an aftermarket option that will work.
    Will see what I can find. No specs listed on JD parts website.

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    56FordGuy's Avatar
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    Measuring them might be the simplest. JD doesn't always make it easy to find detailed measurements in the books.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 56FordGuy View Post
    Measuring them might be the simplest. JD doesn't always make it easy to find detailed measurements in the books.
    Thanks. They are putting in a seal kit, but said they probably wouldn't last past this winter. Will try to measure when I get them back and let you know.

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    I believe these are the same items that are on a #74 Front Blade. If correct, they have a small (~1/16") hole, I assume for venting, near the ram end of the cylinder. I think this lets moisture in. I'm not an expert but leaving a vent hole in a cylinder intended for wet applications doesn't seem like the best idea.

    I bought a used #74 a few years ago, it had sat outside for quite a while and I assumed I could just rebuild the cylinders. Both were rusty inside. I honed them the best I could. One year later, one is holding and the other will leak a very small amount of oil out of the "vent" hole if I forget to relieve the pressure after use. It will leak out over a day and then stop so the amount leaking past is small. Relieving the pressure has eliminated the dripping.

    my strategy is to spend $90.00 for two rebuild kits when they start to leak again. I figure I can rebuild them 12 times and it will still be cheaper than buying new cylinders. Of course, the success of this plan likely inversely proportional to the amount of snowfall. One winter with lots of snow and I may be changing my mind.

    There is one other issue to be aware of - the design of the end of the cylinder creates a space for rust to build up outside of the "end cap". It can make them difficult to disassemble.
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    Quote Originally Posted by JAllen View Post
    I believe these are the same items that are on a #74 Front Blade. If correct, they have a small (~1/16") hole, I assume for venting, near the ram end of the cylinder. I think this lets moisture in. I'm not an expert but leaving a vent hole in a cylinder intended for wet applications doesn't seem like the best idea.

    I bought a used #74 a few years ago, it had sat outside for quite a while and I assumed I could just rebuild the cylinders. Both were rusty inside. I honed them the best I could. One year later, one is holding and the other will leak a very small amount of oil out of the "vent" hole if I forget to relieve the pressure after use. It will leak out over a day and then stop so the amount leaking past is small. Relieving the pressure has eliminated the dripping.

    my strategy is to spend $90.00 for two rebuild kits when they start to leak again. I figure I can rebuild them 12 times and it will still be cheaper than buying new cylinders. Of course, the success of this plan likely inversely proportional to the amount of snowfall. One winter with lots of snow and I may be changing my mind.

    There is one other issue to be aware of - the design of the end of the cylinder creates a space for rust to build up outside of the "end cap". It can make them difficult to disassemble.


    Thanks for the info and insight. They are at the dealer getting the seals replaced. I might have to learn how to do them myself. Will have to look at the "vent holes". I had wondered if "snow plow" angle cylinders could work in their place? Dealer referred me to "SurplusParts.com" and they have a variety of cylinders, but without the Deere specs, don't know what replacements might work.
    Was a surprise to learn how proud/scare new Deere replacements cost. Could almost buy another whole setup for the price of two, but of unknown condition.

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    I went through the very same issues years ago with my #380 blade, and everything JAllen has written is 100% correct. There are no direct replacement aftermarket cylinders available, some are close and could be made to fit with some modifications to the cylinders and/or the blade frame but still not that easy. I honed mine, replaced the seals and they have been OK since, I also remove the blade from the frame, and store it in the off season with both pistons extended so there is oil in both bores.

    It is indeed a very poor design
    Kenny

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kennyd View Post
    I went through the very same issues years ago with my #380 blade, and everything JAllen has written is 100% correct. There are no direct replacement aftermarket cylinders available, some are close and could be made to fit with some modifications to the cylinders and/or the blade frame but still not that easy. I honed mine, replaced the seals and they have been OK since, I also remove the blade from the frame, and store it in the off season with both pistons extended so there is oil in both bores.

    It is indeed a very poor design
    Ditto. Same here with my new to me 366 plow. When I purchased it there was one new cylinder and one leaky one. I purchased seals for the leaker but after pulling it apart decided that the bore was too far gone. Replaced the barrel, resealed it and called it a day. Also pulled the new replacement apart and was relieved that it was A-OK.

    I do like Kenny's idea about pulling the blade and extending both pistons to fill the bores with fluid. In the meantime it's stored inside prevent water intrusion.
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