Back Blade
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    TruckFarmer55's Avatar
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    Back Blade

    Looking for a new implement. I'd buy a frontier but can't foot that bill right now. I have a 50 horse tractor and would use the blade to fill in holes in the driveway and keep it level. Also to grade away grass and topsoil to level the ground. Is there a king kutter or other brand that is a few hundred dollars that I won't trash?

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    Firemark's Avatar
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    I would defiantly check Craig's list. I would look every night and sure enough, I found a good deal on a 60" woods blade for $250
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    jgayman's Avatar
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    You can get a CountyLine 6-foot blade from TSC for $380 that is rated for 45HP. It should work fine if you do not abuse it. I second what the other poster mentioned, keep an eye on Craig's list. There are some deals once in a while. Be aware you will also see a lot of rusted hulks that look like they've been salvaged from the Titanic for ridiculously high prices.
    2012 2720 -- 200CX Loader -- 54" Quick Attach Snow Blower -- Frontier LR5060 Rake -- Land Pride RB1660 Blade (Hydraulic Angle) -- Artillian 42" Forks -- Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks -- Fit Rite Hydraulic top-link -- 2013 X500 for mowing duties

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    56FordGuy's Avatar
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    What tractor are you using, and what class hitch does it have? I'd agree with the others, keep an eye on Craigslist and buy used.
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    Fit Rite Hydraulics MtnViewRanch's Avatar
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    For any 50hp tractor that I am aware of, you need to have at a minimum of a 500lb rear blade to do ANYTHING worth while. Anything lighter and besides that it won't do much, your tractor will end up destroying it. You aren't going to find a new one that would be a good match for your tractor for a few hundred $$$.

    To be perfectly honest with you, you should have a nice 8' wide blade that weighs 800lbs or more and that is going to cost upwards of $2000.

    I know that that is not what you wanted to hear, but it is what it is.
    Brian

    Manufacturer of Fit Rite Hydraulics

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    coaltrain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MtnViewRanch View Post
    For any 50hp tractor that I am aware of, you need to have at a minimum of a 500lb rear blade to do ANYTHING worth while. Anything lighter and besides that it won't do much, your tractor will end up destroying it. You aren't going to find a new one that would be a good match for your tractor for a few hundred $$$.

    To be perfectly honest with you, you should have a nice 8' wide blade that weighs 800lbs or more and that is going to cost upwards of $2000.

    I know that that is not what you wanted to hear, but it is what it is.
    Listen to this ^^^.

    I bought one of those Tractor Supply blades for my 2010 (47HP) and destroyed it in a matter of months fixing and plowing my road.

    Buy it right - buy it once.
    ~Stan~
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    ddinham's Avatar
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    For a 50HP tractor, you are going to need an 8ft blade. Is it cat 1 or cat 2. Cat 2 blades are heavier. You may need to hang some weights off of it to make it dig better. Do you have any rear remotes? You might want to consider a hydraulic angle rear blade. I have a Frontier 8ft hydraulic angle blade and the hydraulics come pretty handy at times. Check Craigs List daily. That is where I get most of my stuff. Not all blades are created equal. Last year I bought a 8ft tandem disk at an auction. It came with a very light duty 8ft rear blade that I could nearly pick up myself. I can't do that with my Frontier blade and it probably is only classified as medium duty. Remember that when you angle the blade it becomes more narrow. My tractor is 6ft wide and with the blade fully angled, it barely covers the width of the tractor.

    You might want to also consider a box blade.

    Dave
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    Evergreen's Avatar
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    I agree with everyone who has said to go used and get something as heavy duty as your budget will allow.

    I had (had being the key word in this situation) an 82" tractor supply back blade I had been using to grade my driveway with my little old model M (2750 pounds and barely 20 horsepower. For just skimming gravel topcoat, it worked great. One day I got the bright idea to switch out the pins to Cat 2, put the thing on my big old model G (double the weight and double the horsepower), and use it to push back the snow banks along the driveway. I should have snapped a few photos of the carnage because it was spectacular. I simultaneously snagged a stump and hit a really dense pack of snow which bent or broke everything except the 3pt pins and the bolts holding on the cutting edge. It probably didn't help that the reverse gear in a G is really fast, but I think momentum would have done the trick even if I had managed to get to the clutch before impact.

    Ground engaging equipment should always have a certain degree of overkill built into it. I got a heavy duty rhino brand blade, removed the stump, and never had another issue. Yes, you could argue that the stump was the real culprit, but 'obstacles' happen.
    '50 Model M w/electronic ignition, 12v conversion, and a 3pt conversion plus a homemade snowplow, a Deere Model 51 trailer plow, a Woods RM59 finish mower, a Bark Buster splitter, and a few other toys.
    '69 Sears Suburban 14 48" deck and 42" back blade, an estate rake, and a sweeper.
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    Years ago my older brother bought 2 cat1 rear blades. After wrecking them in less than 2 yrs he finally bought a cat2 it is now guessing 25 maybe 30 yrs old. Yes he has broken a few welds on it ,unlike bending the 6' blade on one and totally destroying the frame of the other .
    Gene

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    Rope_Chucker's Avatar
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    I bought a J- Bar 7-ft class 2 blade and have had to do repair on the diagonal brace to keep it from bending under load. Not sure I would recommend J-Bar. This was about $650. Tilting feature is nice.

    I have an old 2440 and it's rated at 60hp, I believe.

    j-bar blade.pdf
    Last edited by Rope_Chucker; 02-27-2017 at 08:05 AM.
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