Operating temp JD50
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    Operating temp JD50

    Ok, now that I own this machine it's time to figure some things out. I bought a 6' brush hog which the manufacturer said my tractor could handle and so far it seems to have plenty of power to run it. But...... The previous owner said the temp gauge didn't work. Turns out that it does and once I mow about 15-25 minutes it starts getting up there. Anyone have any idea what the normal operating temp shod be. I have also been blowing water out the overflow tube.at first I thought I may be overheating it but now I am not sure. Maybe I over filled the radiator? Maybe the cap is bad? Or maybe the thermostat is not opening the shutters? Any thoughts?
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhillipS View Post
    Ok, now that I own this machine it's time to figure some things out. I bought a 6' brush hog which the manufacturer said my tractor could handle and so far it seems to have plenty of power to run it. But...... The previous owner said the temp gauge didn't work. Turns out that it does and once I mow about 15-25 minutes it starts getting up there. Anyone have any idea what the normal operating temp shod be. I have also been blowing water out the overflow tube.at first I thought I may be overheating it but now I am not sure. Maybe I over filled the radiator? Maybe the cap is bad? Or maybe the thermostat is not opening the shutters? Any thoughts?



    could be any of these items not working right. my late uncle who used my step paps 50, who had kept it after his farm sell. anyways his was running warm, found out it was the shutters. hold on to ur wallet-when u ask about the price. he just unhooked them. and somehow tied em open-i guess. i wasn't around to see what eh did-thou he did it in my garage-which was my dad's before mine.

    my 50 is just a yr or so newer than his-and i don't have shutters on it. my head gasket leaks a little bit-when i first fire it up in the spring-- i put a little bit of good black pepper in, helped for the band aid fix.been like that for yrs now.
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    jim

    2006 2520 mcut, 2004 x475, 1953 model 50, 1985 318-was my Dad's,
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    I don't have enough experience with the 50 tractor to give you a straight answer. There may be some info in the owners manual as far as proper and safe operating temperatures for your tractor.

    Nearly all my farm time was done with Dad's '49 B. It did not have a coolant pump, thermostat controlled shutters, a pressurized system, and no "winter/summer" valve in the manifold. The manually operated shutters were used to warm the engine a little sooner in cold weather but we seldom had them closed for any other reason. They are more necessary if the tractor is an "all fuel" model. Is your 50 and all fuel or only gasolene type?

    The instructions Dad gave me was to not let the temp. go beyond 200 when pulling hard such as plowing or disking, 180-190 was best. If it started to go past 190, dropping down one gear usually brought the temp. down in 10 or so minutes. Lastly, after working it hard in the field, "do not shut off the engine until it cooled down to at least to 180. Just let it idle until it is cooled". I don't know if he got all this from a book or dealer advise. I did what he said and it served us well, no cracked head or warped valves during our ownership. It was a good tractor.

    So, maybe you or someone else can find info more accurate for the 50, but I don't think it would vary much from the old thermo-siphon system for operating temperature. The original gages seemed to be accurate, so if it is getting hot, you are thinking right to start looking for the cause.

    tommyhawk
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    thanks, going to start with the cap and then move on to the shutters.

    I am thinking if water turns into steam at 212 than any thing over 200 is probably not good. gauge runs up to 220.
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    Are you using a coolant/water mix, or are you using straight water?

    The first things to check are the positions of the radiator shutters and intake manifold heat diverter. It is quite possible that these are either set incorrectly or stuck in the wrong position. If those check out, move on to the radiator cap and thermostat. There is also the possibility that your water pump is worn out; sand left over from casting the engine can erode the pump's impeller over time and decrease its effectiveness.

    My old G had radiator shutters on it when I got it, but they were stuck closed. I removed them and simply wrapped a heavy canvas tarp around the grille in the winter months.
    '50 Model M w/electronic ignition, 12v conversion, and a 3pt conversion plus a homemade snowplow, a Deere Model 51 trailer plow, a Woods RM59 finish mower, a Bark Buster splitter, and a few other toys.
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhillipS View Post
    thanks, going to start with the cap and then move on to the shutters.

    I am thinking if water turns into steam at 212 than any thing over 200 is probably not good. gauge runs up to 220.
    im have a D and it uses a totally different cooling system and its all fuel. not working it barely gets to 130f with radiator curtian fully closed in summer full load summer work with radiator unrestricted should be 180f or less... back then they just used straight water so yes boiling point is much lower then with aintfreeze but its higher then 212f because with the cap the water is pressurized so it boiling point is higher.
    but these tractors were meant to work all day in summer conditions at full load and not overheat on plain water so i would say 200f or less. check with a good temp tool at the very top of the radiator were the water first enters the radiator and check the temp there. thats the hottest point then goes down the radiator to be cooled so check temp at bottom of radiator to see how cool it is leaving the radiator headed back to the engine. that will tell u condition of the radiator . flow,plugged up and cooling effeciancy of the radiator. ((cap,air flow,volume,pressure ect)
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    thanks, this helps. I have a hunch that it is actually operating properly. The first time it happened it was spewing out of the cap. after I tightened it down It started coming out of the overflow. The cap does not do anything to prevent water getting to the overflow based on pressure unless I am missing a part. Anyway, I wonder If I fill it up with Anti-Freeze and it stays under 200 if I might be fine. I also want to play it safe until I figure it out.

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    keep in mind nothing cools better then plain water.... heat transfer is greater for plain water so adding antifreeze ect will make it worse.
    1935 jd model D
    65 110 rf
    77 jd 80 cart
    83 420 rear pto, 3 point hitch
    88 332 46"deck s
    89 420 60" deck
    89 318
    jd #8 chainsaw (remington)
    2)jd 35ev chainsaws (echo)
    jd 50v chainsaw (echo
    jd 60v chainsaw (echo)
    jd 70v chainsaw (echo) sold
    jd 80ev chainsaw (echo)
    jd cs40 chainsaw (efco 940)
    husqvarna 240 chainsaw
    husqvarna 372xp chainsaw
    husqvarna 455 chainsaw
    2)dolmar 117 chainsaws
    dolmar 100 chainsaw

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    I was trying to figure out what radiator cap to get and couldn't find one that matched my Serial #. I called Steiner and they told me that my system is not pressurized even though my manual says it is. This would explain why I have no overflow tube. He told me that I most likely have to much water in it. I guess those manual re-prints are general over many years.

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