49 A Rock Shaft not moving
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    TGALX3's Avatar
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    Question 49 A Rock Shaft not moving

    I can't seem to get my rockshaft to go up and down on my model A. I have got the hydraulics working when the PTO is engaged. When I move the hydraulic lever to the left of the seat I have hear the hydraulic pump engage but for some reason I cant figure out how to move the rock shaft.

    As most know, I need the rockshaft to move attachments up and down.

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    Keeper of the GTT Cookies dieselshadow's Avatar
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    I'm assuming it has the Powr-Trol on the back of the tractor? Have you checked the fluid level? There's a large nut/cap on the side of it opposite of where the handle enters the unit.
    - Jason

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    TGALX3's Avatar
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    yea it has the power trol. No I haven't checked the fluid level.

    That would probably be a good place to start.

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    TGALX3's Avatar
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    There is definitely fluid in the power troll. I took both plugs out and fluid came out.

    I fear that the cylinder in the differential may be frozen. is that possible? if so, can I unstick it with out taking the entire back half apart?

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    Keeper of the GTT Cookies dieselshadow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TGALX3 View Post
    There is definitely fluid in the power troll. I took both plugs out and fluid came out.

    I fear that the cylinder in the differential may be frozen. is that possible? if so, can I unstick it with out taking the entire back half apart?
    The rockshaft cylinder sticks forward into the trans in between the final drive gears.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    These pics are of my 60, the later replacement for the A, so expect some differences, but they are very similar.

    To answer your question, no. You can't service the cylinder without removing the entire rear end cover. I would try a few things before going down that road. First make sure the rockshaft isn't already in the up position. Unless you have the lift arms installed and know they are clocked in the right position, you can't tell the position just by looking at the shaft. It's gravity lower, so put the lever into the forward position and try to lower or rotate the shaft down. The engine doesn't need to run to do this.

    Here's what the cylinder looks like with the Powr-Trol removed.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    As you can see, this one was badly rusted. The piston is still in the cylinder in these pics. There's only an o-ring for the piston seal so it won't take much to damage it.
    - Jason

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    2720 w/ 200CX FEL
    , Ken's weld-on hooks, Fit Rite Hydraulics Top and Tilt kit, Artillian forks.
    1954 60 - getting full restoration, 1964
    110 round fender in the shop for crustoration
    Ferris IS3200Zzero turn mower

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    TGALX3's Avatar
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    Those are great pictures. Ok. Ill give it a try.

    Thanks.

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    TGALX3's Avatar
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    I believe they are in the lower position. I don't really want to spend 800-1,000 for a 3 pt kit just to find out, yet. SO! I put the lever forward and put a huge wrench on it and put my body weight on it and it didn't lower.

    Bad news bears!?

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    Keeper of the GTT Cookies dieselshadow's Avatar
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    All isn't lost yet. I don't have a Powr-Trol manual, much less anything for the A. If you're careful you can remove the Powr-Trol without tearing the gasket (I would get a new one anyway). There's a spring that will come out with it, just watch out. Once that's off, you can examine the cylinder and piston. Be sure to drain the system first. The drain plug is on the very bottom of the rockshaft casting. Here's a picture of mine drooling from the drain plug. Notice the Powr-Trol is removed. You can see the rod and lever that moves the rockshaft. Mine had a ton of goo and slime in it. Maybe yours does too?

    Another thing to do, go to JDParts.com and download the PDF of your tractor's parts breakdown. It's free, and only the older equipment does JD let you copy the file (for free!). I have one in both PDF and a paper edition I bought.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails image.jpg  
    - Jason

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    2720 w/ 200CX FEL
    , Ken's weld-on hooks, Fit Rite Hydraulics Top and Tilt kit, Artillian forks.
    1954 60 - getting full restoration, 1964
    110 round fender in the shop for crustoration
    Ferris IS3200Zzero turn mower

    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo2 View Post
    Dieselshadow is my Hero.


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    TGALX3's Avatar
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    I just had a thought.

    If there is not enough fluid in the system that would keep the piston from moving. Right?

    Even though, I took the plugs out and fluid came out and there was only a little bit that could cause this problem?

    How much hydraulic fluid does the A need?

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    Keeper of the GTT Cookies dieselshadow's Avatar
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    The drain plug is on the bottom of the tractor. I thought the plug on the bottom of the Powr-Trol was the drain, it is, but only for the valve box. The fluid actually lives in the rear end cover. If you look closely at the last picture I posted, you'll see how the oil is inside the housing, not much in the Powr-Trol valve itself.

    I'm not sure of the capacity, but yes, low fluid could be the cause of your issue.
    - Jason

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    2720 w/ 200CX FEL
    , Ken's weld-on hooks, Fit Rite Hydraulics Top and Tilt kit, Artillian forks.
    1954 60 - getting full restoration, 1964
    110 round fender in the shop for crustoration
    Ferris IS3200Zzero turn mower

    Quote Originally Posted by Gizmo2 View Post
    Dieselshadow is my Hero.


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