Stop leak in radiator
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Thread: Stop leak in radiator

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    Northwoods's Avatar
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    Stop leak in radiator

    I acquired a ‘56 jd 60 several months ago in good shape for a decent price. I knew the core would eventually need to be replaced before I bought it. I was told by the seller that he had used a stop leak in the radiator.

    I drained and flushed the system with straight water and refilled with 50/50, and cleaned out the radiator fins. The tractor has always run at the very upper end of the normal range of the temp gauge and goes slightly into the red after shutdown. This is running it under no load, and it concerns me. I got a new thermostat but haven’t changed it yet, and it’s probably the original water pump on it.

    Is it possible the the stop leak could have plugged up something in the engine block or head? And if so what are my options to flush it out or something else? I asked the guy I bought it off of what he used and he said it was K-Seal HD and that he only used one bottle but left it in the system.

    Maybe I’m just being paranoid before I have gone over the thermostat and water pump.

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    Bulitt's Avatar
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    Is the radiator getting hot? Both upper and lower hoses hot? Sounds like the thermostat may have failed?
    Bob - 2011 2520

    2520 Mods - http://www.greentractortalk.com/foru...2520-mods.html
    Posted for general info only. Not suggesting you alter your tractor based upon my feeble minded posts. Do so at your own risk. Maintenance and mods should be performed by a JD Dealer, or refer to your owners and maintenance manuals for proper procedures.


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    Keeper of the GTT Cookies dieselshadow's Avatar
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    I hate that stop leak stuff. It always seems to plug up way more than you ask for.

    Do you have a radiator shop nearby? Those old school radiators are very easily repaired. You can get a new core and gaskets and do it yourself as well. Itís a heavy son of a gun.
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    Northwoods's Avatar
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    Yes, I have a really good radiator shop nearby and I already got a rough estimate from them. I haven’t checked the hoses yet but I will tomorrow. I’m thinking the thermostat might be bad too.

    My biggest concern is that the k-seal has plugged up a water passage. Is there anyway to check for this or flush all that residual junk out of the system?

    Also my 60 is a late serial #606 tractor. I’m pretty sure the thermostat is located at the top water tank. Do I have to take off the gas tank and sheet metal to to do this? If I do I will pull the radiator out and get everything done, core, pump, thermostat.
    BigJim55 and goat704! like this.

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    BigJim55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Northwoods View Post
    Yes, I have a really good radiator shop nearby and I already got a rough estimate from them. I havenít checked the hoses yet but I will tomorrow. Iím thinking the thermostat might be bad too.

    My biggest concern is that the k-seal has plugged up a water passage. Is there anyway to check for this or flush all that residual junk out of the system?

    Also my 60 is a late serial #606 tractor. Iím pretty sure the thermostat is located at the top water tank. Do I have to take off the gas tank and sheet metal to to do this? If I do I will pull the radiator out and get everything done, core, pump, thermostat.
    i have a model 50-and when i replaced my radiator yrs ago. i had to pull the steering rod, but not the gas tank. and watch what they replace ur rad with. they wanted to replace my original radiator with a 4 row instead of the 5 it had in originally. now this all happened at a jd dealer i was using near my work place back then. called my dealer i now use-and he was able to get me what it had in it.
    these radiators are quite heavy-and u need a million bolts and nuts to bolt it back together-good luck.

    p.s-i guess u know the grill needs to come off to pull the steering rod off.
    jim

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    2018 835R gas model gator-"aka" the Cadillac i say!! 6ft jd snow plow-which already has a dtac out on it. i got just about everything on it i could at the time

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    tlock0331's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dieselshadow View Post
    I hate that stop leak stuff. It always seems to plug up way more than you ask for.

    Do you have a radiator shop nearby? Those old school radiators are very easily repaired. You can get a new core and gaskets and do it yourself as well. Itís a heavy son of a gun.
    DieselShadow is 100% correct, get a new gasket and core and move on....because once the shop spends 3 or 4 hours trying to take the bolts out without breaking them, they will charge you for all the extra hours they have in it because of the tear down, plus the bolts they had to get to replace the rusted out and snapped off ones, then put it back together. and thats if they do a pressure test first with it together so they can actually see how bad it actually is.

    As cheap as cores are for them, buy a new one and move on, 250 ish bucks last i checked, heat the area before trying to take the bolts out before you snap them off, put in new cork gaskets. I built a template for the bolt holes, silicone or permatext, put it back together and move on.

    If the shop estimated 100-150 bucks, times that by 2 or 3 and figure thats what your really gonna pay....

    you can replace the core at home, in a morning and be done.

    I think the thermostat is located in the upper water pipe above the block, not in the tanks, but i could be wrong. I couldnt imagine the block ports being plugged up that bad from some stop leak, but whats to say a mouse nest didnt somehow get stuck in the upper or lower tank. I have had one rusted so bad that the lower tank was almost completely full of rust, blocking flow.

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    Northwoods's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the replies guys. The quote I got from the radiator shop was $600, and that was if they DIDNT have any trouble with broken bolts. I figure I’ll just do it myself, save money, and it will give me the chance to go over several other things with the sheet metal and gas tank off.

    I’m sure I’ll have more questions. Thanks again.

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