Bad cam bearing
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Thread: Bad cam bearing

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    Bad cam bearing

    Well guys I was chasing oil leaks on my 46 to 47 model A. I removed the governor when I saw the remnants of a broken snap ring. I rebuilt the governor and the fan shaft. Then doing some looking and poking around I found a bad cam bearing. So I removed the crank and cam. I have decided to send the cam to josh blackburn to have it freshened up with a puller grind and have the holes in the end were it bolts to the gear slotted so it can be degreed to the engine. I am not looking to build a dedicated pulling tractor, but if anyone has any ideas to offer while the tractor is this far tore down I am all ears. I only pull at my local county fairs and want to keep the tractor stock appearing.
    Thanks in advance!
    Last edited by Afan; 07-06-2019 at 11:25 PM.
    1946 electric start A, and 1950 A

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    Machinist is trying to talk me into lengthening the con rods and decking the head, while also taking a small amount off of pistons. He says it will take some stress off of the rotating assembly and increase compression. Does anyone have an opinion on this?
    Last edited by Afan; 07-11-2019 at 09:25 AM.
    1946 electric start A, and 1950 A

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    Hmm, it should give you more compression which will be more power, but I'd be concerned with the crank. In the '40's & '50's I'm not sure if they had forced steel cranks. And what about bearings? Are they lead or babbitt? I'd also think about raising oil pressure...just a tad though so you don't "wash out" the bearings. Bob
    Toughsox likes this.
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
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    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

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    I hadn't given the bearings much thought. Mine are still babbit so I will be sure to bring it up before any work is done. I have already upped the oil pressure a bit, I can hold the gauge between med and hi so I would think I am good there. The tractor is an all fuel so compression is already lower than most everyone else at the county fair but he is talking 9 or 10 to one. I told him maybe better stay around 8 to 1 max, because I dont want to have to run aviation fuel. I like going down to the local gas station and getting 91 octane.
    DRobinson likes this.
    1946 electric start A, and 1950 A

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    I had the cam done like I said, but have decided to put the tractor back together as is. It takes a lot of trust in a welder to cut and reweld con rods, and I think it's kind of cool being able to run an all fuel tractor on diesel fuel or kerosene which I have done. If I raise the compression like he is talking I am afraid I will not be able to use different fuels any longer. Plus I am sure my late grandpa would be happy that I am not going to molest our project. Besides I have a 1950 model gas A that I can build up a little for pulling.
    Toughsox likes this.
    1946 electric start A, and 1950 A

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    Smart move on NOT re-welding the rods! If you have any thoughts of doing this to your '50 A, you NEED to do some research. First, what is the material of the rod...yeah, steel, but what type/grade of steel? Different grades of steel need different preheat temperatures prior to welding.

    Then, talk with the welder. Does he preheat and at what temp? How does he determine & hold crank to piston centerline dimension...tape measure, fixture? Does he wrap & slow cool after weld or just air cool? Does he precision weigh rods afterwards...to the nearest pound/ounce/gram/grain?

    These are just my very first thoughts involving welding an engine rod! Bob
    '80 317 w/18hp B&S and divert valve for rear hydraulics, 3 pt hitch, 5' york rake
    '82 314 w/rear PTO for tiller
    33 tiller
    49 thrower
    54 4 way blade
    Mod 48 deck & Mod 462 TracVac

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    Afan (08-10-2019)

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