John deere AR crank splines and bearings
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Thread: John deere AR crank splines and bearings

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    John deere AR crank splines and bearings

    Hey Guys, just picked up a 1952 styled AR. serial number 279226


    Much to my disappointment a few weeks after getting it, I found the crank splines that mate with the clutch drive disk have been repaired, poorly. Gave it a wiggle prior to purchasing anyway wasnt noticable, more noticeable after the 25 km ride home! None the less a good drive!

    So my options appear to be try to find a good crank or repair what I have, to me it looks like a poor repair, sloppy welds, which may make repairing harder now. Who ever worked on it reassembled the clutch drive didnt allign the timing dots oviously because of the poor fit....

    Anyone know of a reputable welder/ machine shop in Ontario, Canada with this type of repair? I'd consider sending it to the states?

    Many cranks I have found have been machined and would require .020 bearings.
    Are there aftermarket crank bearings available for the AR? I see shims in the parts diagram, I've never torn a two cylinder down, I can't imagine these shims adjust for .020" ??

    It appears to be different bearings compared to an A, is this correct or can I use A model crank bearings?

    The crank is a A3322R

    Unfortunately my motor has the babbit rods (A2344 casting number) so if I gets new crank that has been machined I will need new used rods with the inserts, I believe the A5350?

    Any and all advice interns of tearing it down and swapping crank is welcome, I'd like to make it right! It's in reasonably good condition, newer paint, starts and runs nice. I had bought expecting some electrical work etc but wasn't counting on the crank splines being chewed! Ill attach a photo later of the splines.

    I'm new to the 2 cylinders but have a decent mechanical knowledge

    Thanks guys
    Brendan

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    44JohnDeereBR (12-25-2016)

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    coalminer16's Avatar
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    Two-cylinders are an easy fix. The crank-just some aluminum or tin cans will help for shimming the clutch up. The majority of our collection has that done. It is just a tappered shaft and the shim brings things back to normal is all.

    The bearings-rarely do you need to machine them. These things were made to run forever and aren't high compression or RPM. If it has the flat top cast iron pistons from the original all fuel engine then it is around 4:1 compression. The bearings if they wear have shims. Take the crank out and rods. Put the rods on the crank and put some of the feelygauge in there and tighten down. Pull back apart and see the spred. Take shims out as needed to get proper tollerance afterwards.
    "Travis" on WFM
    First year 332 with H3 added X 2, JD 3 pt, JD factory delux seat with flip pan. 430 rear diff. 430 fender deck(have two that are mirror copies of themselves). 420, two more 332's.
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  5. Top | #3

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    Thank you for the info, do you just slide the drive disk on over your shims? I doubt any epoxy would really hold up with the shims? Should I be concerned about the shims moving? I'd hate to have one get into the clutch bearing!

    I Recieved my used john deere crank with good splines, its standard size but has rust. Talked to a guy at a local shop, he feels it needs to be ground down ten thou.

    Are the. Factory mains babbit? I believe the rod bearings are from what I understand but I understand I can go to newer rods with an oversized insert.

    Anyone know anything more about the mains? Can they be rebabbited oversized, the fella thought so at the shop, is this common practice, To fit crank after grinding?
    Anyone know of Ontario local shops that are familiar with the JDs or if anyone has an oversized bearing for the AR?

    Thanks again just want my facts straight!


    JohndeereAR

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    44JohnDeereBR (12-25-2016)

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