How to shutdown a classic tractor
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    Evergreen's Avatar
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    How to shutdown a classic tractor

    I got into a debate yesterday regarding the proper way to shut down an old tractor at the end of the day. I'm not going to tell whose side is whose so that your answers will be impartial.

    Option 1: Turn the tractor's fuel off at the sediment bowl or other pre-carburetor shut-off point, and let the machine run the carb out of gas before switching off the ignition.

    Option 2: Turn off the tractor's ignition, and then shut off the fuel at the sediment bowl or other pre-carburetor shut-off point.

    Option 3: Does it really matter? Please note that this opinion was given by my wife and was dripping with sarcasm... however, in spite of her best efforts, I think it also raises a valid point.


    Basically this debate boils down to leaving the carburetor full of gas for extended periods of time. What are your thoughts?
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    I always turn the sediment bowl valve off and let my BO run out of fuel. Since it has a magneto it has no switch to turn off.
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    I would shut it down with fuel in it. Having no fuel in it can cause the carb gaskets and rubber diaphragms to dry out or crack. I had a dual fuel truck(propane/gas) that had this issue. If I didn't run it on gas every week or so the carb gaskets dried out and fuel pump diaphram would crack.

    If leaving it more than 2 months I would add some stabilizer to the fuel. I would also run only premium fuel in it so that it doesn't get exposed to ethanol, but thats a whole other topic!
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    I'd say option 3, it doesn't really matter. That being said, I'd run it out of fuel for extended storage periods, leave it full for shorter periods of time.
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    Quote Originally Posted by clayh View Post
    I would shut it down with fuel in it. Having no fuel in it can cause the carb gaskets and rubber diaphragms to dry out or crack. I had a dual fuel truck(propane/gas) that had this issue. If I didn't run it on gas every week or so the carb gaskets dried out and fuel pump diaphram would crack.

    If leaving it more than 2 months I would add some stabilizer to the fuel. I would also run only premium fuel in it so that it doesn't get exposed to ethanol, but thats a whole other topic!
    please elaborate. im interested
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    The '40 B Dad had we had to shift into 4th gear (of 4 speeds) and engage the clutch at idle to stall the engine. That stupid thing would run for at least 5 minutes on the gas in the fuel lines & carb.

    All the other tractors had ignition switches to shut them off, even the ones with magnetos.
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    my dads 38 --b, we also put in 4th gear stalled the motor and then got off tractor, and then shut the gas off. we coasted it to start it all the time if possible.

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    Back in the day?

    Kill the ignition, shut off the fuel. Gas was Gas, and might varnish after 6 months, but that wasn't a huge headache to fix.

    Now?
    Shut off the fuel, and let it burn through everything in the carb.

    Stuff changes.

    The Ethanol in the Gas, is many times more destructive, than a dried out Carb gasket.
    Carb gaskets nowdays don't "Dry out" like they used to either.
    Ethanol eats and etches brass,steel, and pot metal.

    I just had our 300 Gallon skid tank re-filled with Non Ethanol Rec. 90.
    It's worth every dime to avoid Ethanol damage.
    rtgt, mtrmn, flyweight and 1 others like this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dingeryote View Post


    I just had our 300 Gallon skid tank re-filled with Non Ethanol Rec. 90.
    It's worth every dime to avoid Ethanol damage.
    one question I ask but no one know for sure. if no ethanol do you go back to adding the old stabil, or use the new enzyme treatments for ethanol gas to preserve it
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