M head gasket service
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    Evergreen's Avatar
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    M head gasket service

    The last few times I have gotten my M out, I have noticed white smoke coming out of the stack for the first minute or so. Not pouring out in clouds, just little puffs. If I warm it up with the lower radiator hose, the smoke is much worse. It definitely smells like coolant too. I haven't run it long or hard enough to notice if it is also burning coolant while operating.

    I am assuming a bad head gasket unless someone has any other ideas.

    I know none of the tractor's past history so while I'm in there I figured I could/should take care of anything else that could cause a problem later on while I already have it appart. I got a complete upper end gasket kit and a new exhaust manifold. But I've never had a Dubuque 2-cylinder opened up before and I was wondering if there was anything specific to the vertical 2-cylinder engine that I should be watching for? Other than needing its yearly changing of the spark plugs, it runs like a champ and pulls really strong.
    '50 Model M w/electronic ignition, 12v conversion, and a 3pt conversion plus a homemade snowplow, a Deere Model 51 trailer plow, a Woods RM59 finish mower, a Bark Buster splitter, and a few other toys.
    '69 Sears Suburban 14 48" deck and 42" back blade, an estate rake, and a sweeper.
    '07 F250 XL Powerstroke, crew cab, short box, 4x4.
    '85 F150... I finally sold my very first truck after racking up over half-a-million miles on the original drivetrain.

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    Evergreen's Avatar
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    What are your thoughts on polishing the passages on the inside of the intake/exhaust manifold?

    How about polishing the intake and exhaust passages in the head?

    Does my engine even turn fast enough for polishing anything to have any effect at all?

    This will never be a pulling tractor. The only competition it will ever be in is a constant struggle against the passage of time. Most of what my tractor gets used for is plowing snow, mowing grass, and cultivating the garden. Other than running the mower, it spends most of the time at half throttle or less.
    '50 Model M w/electronic ignition, 12v conversion, and a 3pt conversion plus a homemade snowplow, a Deere Model 51 trailer plow, a Woods RM59 finish mower, a Bark Buster splitter, and a few other toys.
    '69 Sears Suburban 14 48" deck and 42" back blade, an estate rake, and a sweeper.
    '07 F250 XL Powerstroke, crew cab, short box, 4x4.
    '85 F150... I finally sold my very first truck after racking up over half-a-million miles on the original drivetrain.

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    Keeper of the GTT Cookies dieselshadow's Avatar
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    I wouldn't do it. You actually benefit from some roughness in the intake manifold on a carbureted engine. It creates some turbulence which mixes the air/fuel mixture better. These engines turn at such a low RPM that you wouldn't really see any benefit anyway.
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    Evergreen's Avatar
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    That's what I was thinking too. Rough casting = more even fuel air mixture.

    The exhaust bore is as big as you'd expect to see on a 6,000 rpm v8... Except that it is on a 1,100 rpm two-cylinder. So I can't really see benefit there either especially since I'm ditching the baffled muffler in favor of a straight pipe.

    I just figured I would ask... Even a 5% power increase is significant when you only start with 20 horsepower! Not that I need the extra power, but more is usually better. I figure the chrome on the new stack will add at least one or two horsepower just based on how bright it shines.
    DRobinson and BigJim55 like this.
    '50 Model M w/electronic ignition, 12v conversion, and a 3pt conversion plus a homemade snowplow, a Deere Model 51 trailer plow, a Woods RM59 finish mower, a Bark Buster splitter, and a few other toys.
    '69 Sears Suburban 14 48" deck and 42" back blade, an estate rake, and a sweeper.
    '07 F250 XL Powerstroke, crew cab, short box, 4x4.
    '85 F150... I finally sold my very first truck after racking up over half-a-million miles on the original drivetrain.

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    89420's Avatar
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    while you have the head off why not shave it to raise compression some. even half a point would be good and cheap
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    Evergreen's Avatar
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    I've thought of that too. I don't think that I'll intentionally shave the head, but I will at least true it out. Any material removed should bump the compression up at least a little bit.

    Sometimes it seems like the compression of these old two-cylinders was limited more by that eras starter's ability to roll them over than anything else. Since I went to the 12volt system a few years ago, it has a lot more cranking power than before.


    Right now my biggest problem is that I can't find my shop manual which contains all of the torque specs needed for re-assembly. When we moved last fall I remember putting it in a box and then labeling the box "also contains tractor manuals". We have a few remaining boxes, but that one isn't one of them. When we un-packed we had a couple of friends over to help and I'm wondering if the manual ended up somewhere weird because whoever un-boxed it didn't know what else to do with it.
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    '50 Model M w/electronic ignition, 12v conversion, and a 3pt conversion plus a homemade snowplow, a Deere Model 51 trailer plow, a Woods RM59 finish mower, a Bark Buster splitter, and a few other toys.
    '69 Sears Suburban 14 48" deck and 42" back blade, an estate rake, and a sweeper.
    '07 F250 XL Powerstroke, crew cab, short box, 4x4.
    '85 F150... I finally sold my very first truck after racking up over half-a-million miles on the original drivetrain.

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    89420's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Evergreen View Post
    I've thought of that too. I don't think that I'll intentionally shave the head, but I will at least true it out. Any material removed should bump the compression up at least a little bit.

    Sometimes it seems like the compression of these old two-cylinders was limited more by that eras starter's ability to roll them over than anything else. Since I went to the 12volt system a few years ago, it has a lot more cranking power than before.


    Right now my biggest problem is that I can't find my shop manual which contains all of the torque specs needed for re-assembly. When we moved last fall I remember putting it in a box and then labeling the box "also contains tractor manuals". We have a few remaining boxes, but that one isn't one of them. When we un-packed we had a couple of friends over to help and I'm wondering if the manual ended up somewhere weird because whoever un-boxed it didn't know what else to do with it.

    have the head shaved and the combustion chambers smoothed out. you dont want any roughness in the combustion chamber or edges to create hot spots and cause detination at any ratio. i think those only had a 6:1 compression ratio anyway a 6.5:1 would be good and safe with a stock gasket and good head bolts would bump up the low end tourqe for not much coin
    Last edited by 89420; 04-02-2016 at 12:08 PM.
    BigJim55 and Evergreen like this.
    1935 jd model D
    65 110 rf
    77 jd 80 cart
    83 420 rear pto, 3 point hitch
    88 332 46"deck s
    89 420 60" deck
    89 318
    jd #8 chainsaw (remington)
    2)jd 35ev chainsaws (echo)
    jd 50v chainsaw (echo
    jd 60v chainsaw (echo)
    jd 70v chainsaw (echo) sold
    jd 80ev chainsaw (echo)
    jd cs40 chainsaw (efco 940)
    husqvarna 240 chainsaw
    husqvarna 372xp chainsaw
    husqvarna 455 chainsaw
    2)dolmar 117 chainsaws
    dolmar 100 chainsaw

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    According to JD Service manual 03-55 head bolts torqued 100-110 ft lbs.

    Sent from my GT-P5113 using Tapatalk
    BigJim55 likes this.

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    Evergreen (04-02-2016)

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    Evergreen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDB44 View Post
    According to JD Service manual 03-55 head bolts torqued 100-110 ft lbs.

    Sent from my GT-P5113 using Tapatalk
    Thank you! We had company over today so I was forced into being social and not allowed to run off to search in the basement.

    If you could also give me the specs on the intake/exhaust manifold, I'd really appreciate it! I don't think I'll have to take off the upper water pipe or anything else, but it might be handy to have on hand as well.

    Moving sucks. I don't recommend it unless it is completely necessary.
    BigJim55 likes this.
    '50 Model M w/electronic ignition, 12v conversion, and a 3pt conversion plus a homemade snowplow, a Deere Model 51 trailer plow, a Woods RM59 finish mower, a Bark Buster splitter, and a few other toys.
    '69 Sears Suburban 14 48" deck and 42" back blade, an estate rake, and a sweeper.
    '07 F250 XL Powerstroke, crew cab, short box, 4x4.
    '85 F150... I finally sold my very first truck after racking up over half-a-million miles on the original drivetrain.

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    No torque requirements noted in service manual for water manifold or intake/exhaust manifold. Only noted to tighten securely!

    Sent from my GT-P5113 using Tapatalk
    Evergreen likes this.

  14. The Following User Says Thank You to JDB44 For This Useful Post:

    Evergreen (04-03-2016)

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