Stuck 620
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    Stuck 620

    I am fairly new to working on old tractors and need some help.
    I have a 620 that has been sitting indoors for 25 years but the motor is stuck.
    For a couple of weeks I have been squirting the sparkplug hole with PB blaster.
    I have been trying to move the flywheel back and forth with a bar I made that goes in the casting holes.
    No movement so I have been taking parts off, I tried to take the head off this weekend.
    I had 4 full studs come out pretty easily, the other 3 studs are still in the head but the nuts came off easily.
    The head is really stuck to the block. I tried to put small bottle jacks between the block and the head.
    I tried gently beating on it with a soft hammer. None of this worked either. Any ideas?
    I was thinking the three remaining bolts are hanging me up and maybe I need to heat them up with a torch.
    Also I see some people fill the spark plug hole with penetrating oil, maybe that is something that I should do,
    it makes sense that the fluid isn't getting completely around the cylinder.
    Any help would be much appreciated.

    FYI the oil was black but looked good, not cloudy. The antifreeze looked good too, just a little rusty, still had some green in it.
    johnH123 likes this.

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    Daveb's Avatar
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    My B John Deere was stuck and I filled the cylinders with diesel fuel and left it for about a month. Then I used a bar to bump forward and back on the flywheel and was able to get it to break loose. It had been sitting for over 30 years in a quanset.

    Best of luck to you.
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    Keeper of the GTT Cookies dieselshadow's Avatar
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    Filling the cylinders with some sort of light oil like diesel fuel is a good bet. A little acetone mixed in will allow it to migrate a little further. Patience is key here.
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    JB 80----like PB blaster on steroids. Best I've used in over 35 yrs mechanicing. HERE (central Louisiana) it's available at most NAPA and Carquest stores.
    https://www.justicebrothers.com/products_specialty.htm

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    If one of the cylinders has the valves closed,,,
    put a grease fitting in the spark plug hole with adapter fittings.

    Pump in grease with a grease gun,
    You will develop way over 100,000 pounds of force,,, something will move.
    fdmars likes this.

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    Still Stuck

    I'm letting it sit for a while with some Kroil penetrating fluid in it, still seems partially full in the spark plug holes.
    I have heard of the grease technique, it just seems messy, but it might come to that.
    Has anyone ever tried pumping air into the sparkplug hole? The though process is that the air pressure forces the penetrating fluid through and around the rings. I assume I would have to make a plate to seal off the intake to hold air?
    I can tell that the piston is closest to the spark plug on the right side of the tractor,
    I assume that's the side I want to start with?

    I really appreciate all your help, it makes me feel like I'm on the right track.
    BigJim55 likes this.

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    56FordGuy's Avatar
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    Kroil is possibly the best penetrating oil on the market. I would give that some time, maybe even a week or two if you can.
    BigJim55 likes this.
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    Hiya,

    When dealing with rusted together components and trying to get oil to get into all the areas to work, it's best to heat cycle the components as the thermal changes cause the metal to expand and contract with heating and cooling thus wicking the oil deeper than just sitting there.

    Simplest was is to get a torpedo heater, aim it at the block and let it run for about 45 minutes, get that puppy about 200 degrees then turn it off and let it cool on it's own, repeat this a few times and things should come apart a lot easier.
    fdmars, BigJim55 and johnH123 like this.
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    I second the heat and cool approach. The expansion will happen at difderent rates for the cylinder vs. the rings vs. The pistons if you heat it externally. While in the heating mode I would be bumping the flywheel to encourage some movement.

    As far as using air, you will only be able to make shop air pressures, use the grease method. If you are worried about the mess of grease, first fill the cylinder with oil then apply the grease gun. Oil can't be compressed so adding the grease will put the pressure on the oil. This will either move the piston in the cylinder or push the oil past the rings. You can pick the viscosity of the oil to accomplish what you want. If you want to press oil past the rings use a low viz oil. If you want to use pressure to move the piston you should choose a higher viz oil.

    If your valves aren't closed you can remove the rocker arms to lift the valves to their seats. Be careful as the compressed valve springs will provide rapid lift when the last thread comes off - can ruin lights in the garage ceiling or take out an eye...use caution here.

    If you are working the grease gun in one cylinder make sure the valves are open or the spark plugs are out on the other cylinders or you will break connecting rods.

    I would also drop the oil pan if you can so you can see what is happening with the oil in the cylider. If oil begins to gush but the piston doesn't move I would switch cyliders as the rings have given up their hold on that hole meaning that is not the siezed cylider or a portion of the ring has let go/deteriorated beyond it's ability to make a seal.

    Good luck, keep us posted.

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    Last edited by BBarn; 08-31-2016 at 12:19 PM.
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    I vote against pressurizing it in any way.
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