Yet ANOTHER touch-o-matic question!
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    Evergreen's Avatar
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    Yet ANOTHER touch-o-matic question!

    I seem to fight the same issue with this darn thing every year: Working on a really hot summer day causes the gasket between the TOM body and the rockshaft to blow out. Because this is also the gasket for the hydraulic fluid reservoir, it makes a terrible mess. When it happened this year, I parked the tractor and moved on to other projects which in hind sight was a mistake because the garden isn't tilled, the property I'm caretaker of isn't mowed, it is December in Michigan and I can't plow snow without it.

    Maybe this will illustrate the design flaw I'm fighting:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I think the root of the problem is that there are no bolts across the bottom of the TOM/rockshaft because this is where it blows out every time. Due to the tight fit between the rear axle and belt drive pully, there is no way another fastener can be added. I've been fixing it with OEM gaskets and running OEM specified 10w hydraulic fluid; same as iso 32 spec light hydraulic fluid.

    This time I'm determined to fix it once and for all. Clearly fixing it the right way isn't working so it's time to try something else. Before I reveal my plan and taint any ideas yous guys might have, I'd like to hear some of your options.
    BigJim55 likes this.
    '50 Model M w/electronic ignition, 12v conversion, and a 3pt conversion plus a homemade snowplow, a Deere Model 51 trailer plow, a Woods RM59 finish mower, a Bark Buster splitter, and a few other toys.
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    Keeper of the GTT Cookies dieselshadow's Avatar
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    I would stone the mating surfaces to make sure they are as flat as possible. Are you making a gasket? The gasket in this scenario needs to be pretty thin. A thicker one will allow pressure to blow it out. The thinner one has less surface are to push against.
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    Evergreen's Avatar
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    The OEM gasket is a very thin paper gasket, but it shouldn't be under much pressure as all it is sealing is the reservoir. I hadn't considered the two surfaces to be out of spec with each other since they are both machined castings... but that might make sense.
    Superglidesport and BigJim55 like this.
    '50 Model M w/electronic ignition, 12v conversion, and a 3pt conversion plus a homemade snowplow, a Deere Model 51 trailer plow, a Woods RM59 finish mower, a Bark Buster splitter, and a few other toys.
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    '07 F250 XL Powerstroke, crew cab, short box, 4x4.
    '85 F150... I finally sold my very first truck after racking up over half-a-million miles on the original drivetrain.

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    Keeper of the GTT Cookies dieselshadow's Avatar
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    I would also use a proper gasket sealant such as this Permatex Aviation Sealant. It's my go-to for many gaskets that I want to insure don't leak. Be aware though, this stuff is tough. If you use it (lightly) on both side of your gasket, expect the gasket to be very hard to remove from both surfaces upon disassembly. In some cases I only use it on the one surface that will be easier to clean later.

    I don't always use Permatex Aviation Sealant, but when I do, I know I'll have a leak-free gasket.

    You can get this at NAPA or Amazon.
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    Evergreen's Avatar
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    I think I will go that route. It sounds like it might work better than what I was planning.

    Using a OEM gasket as a template, I cut a pair of copies out of a really heavy manila file folder. In between them I planned on running a piece of .035 welding wire pressed into a thin bead of black rtv. I was then going to spray the outside of the sandwich with copperkote.
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    '07 F250 XL Powerstroke, crew cab, short box, 4x4.
    '85 F150... I finally sold my very first truck after racking up over half-a-million miles on the original drivetrain.

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    I am with dieselshadow on this one. Lay a straight edge on the mating surface to see how flat they are.
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    Quote Originally Posted by dieselshadow View Post
    Permatex Aviation Sealant. It's my go-to for many gaskets that I want to insure don't leak. Be aware though, this stuff is tough. If you use it (lightly) on both side of your gasket, expect the gasket to be very hard to remove from both surfaces upon disassembly. In some cases I only use it on the one surface that will be easier to clean later.

    I don't always use Permatex Aviation Sealant, but when I do, I know I'll have a leak-free gasket.

    You can get this at NAPA or Amazon.
    I agree with Dieselshadow's recommendation about making sure the mating surfaces are flat and also using a good sealant.

    I might suggest you consider using a piece of thin aluminum flashing as a replacement for the paper gasket. The aluminum sheeting should seal adequately when used along with a good sealant. It would be a bit of work to fabricate the seal but using some gasket punches should do the trick.
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    Evergreen's Avatar
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    I found some of that aviation grade permatex and I'll be putting it back together tomorrow after work... Here's to hoping!

    Now, about the fluid itself; I'm using the stuff specified in the JD manual (Straight 10w, iso32 hydraulic fluid). Would going to a different viscosity fluid help this problem? I'm quite sure that the reservoir itself is not under pressure. Because the seal always blows out after heavy use on a hot day, I think temperature has more to do with the seal rupturing than brute force. It could also be a coincidence because it happens at the same time each year.
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    '69 Sears Suburban 14 48" deck and 42" back blade, an estate rake, and a sweeper.
    '07 F250 XL Powerstroke, crew cab, short box, 4x4.
    '85 F150... I finally sold my very first truck after racking up over half-a-million miles on the original drivetrain.

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    I bet if you take a piece of sand paper laid it on a small sheet of glass, then rub the face of the housing on the sand paper you will find some imperfections in the mating surface. I use glass as it is usually flat and does not bow much. I kept one from a shelf from a refrigerator we used to have just for this purpose. Sanding objects flat, carburators get uneven for many reasons among other items. Then use a thin gasket . Must be thin as hydralics will push thick gasket material out and blow. That's my story, and I am sticking to it.
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    Have you ever tried to re-torque the cover bolts once the unit gets up to operating temp?
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