some up close shots of the Double D's
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    tlock0331's Avatar
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    some up close shots of the Double D's

    So i brought home a 29 and 31 d, both full steel with extensions, fenders, etc. The part that sucks is the 31, which is the one i would rather restore, is in bad shape, the 29, relatively good. the 31 has pto, 29 does not. I have not searched the parts books just yet, but the pto housing is not just a cover as it was in the later models, its actually a different casting coming out of the differential housing...so swapping that over MAY be more than i bargained for, plus i dont know how different the axle housing are, things like that. I am hoping that there is not a lot of difference in the rear end assemblies. If there are, i may be swapping all the good stuff over to the 31...ugh...

    The only reason i wanted the 31 is because my GP is a 31, kinda cool to me to have matching like that.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 29 D Flywheel.jpg   29 D Pully side.jpg   31 D flywheel.jpg   31 D pulley.jpg  

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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    Those are cool as heck but I sure am glad I did not have to farm with them.
    Keith

    JD 2320, 200CX FEL/61" bucket , 46 BH/16" bucket, Artillian Forks, 72" Snow Blade, Landscape Rake, Ballast Box, PHD,
    BX42 Chipper, XUV 560 Gator, Z915B ZTrak

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    tlock0331's Avatar
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    i was talking to an old fella the other day, we were reminiscing about his younger days, his first tractor was a GP on steel, and he made me laugh, he said, all you young guys that collect those damned ol gp's never had to run one. he also said the most cantankerous tractor john deere ever made. haha

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    Are the engines stuck in both, or free? If stuck, do you have them filled with anything to start them soaking?
    Andy B.

    1966 110 Lawn Tractor
    2012 2520 - DELIVERED 27APR2012!!!

    Tractor that I used to own - 1954 40 Utility
    KB3WPN

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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlock0331 View Post
    i was talking to an old fella the other day, we were reminiscing about his younger days, his first tractor was a GP on steel, and he made me laugh, he said, all you young guys that collect those damned ol gp's never had to run one. he also said the most cantankerous tractor john deere ever made. haha
    I heard my Father-in-Law say that many times about tractors and old cars.
    Keith

    JD 2320, 200CX FEL/61" bucket , 46 BH/16" bucket, Artillian Forks, 72" Snow Blade, Landscape Rake, Ballast Box, PHD,
    BX42 Chipper, XUV 560 Gator, Z915B ZTrak

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    tlock0331's Avatar
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    well, i searched the parts books and there are 3 major serial number breaks for the unstyled D's. 23 to 27, 28 to 30, and 31 to 38. So a lot of the major components carry different part numbers between a 29 & 31, so my plan of moving the pto onto the 29, or building the 31 out of the 29 probably wont work. wouldnt have THAT any other way haha

    The 31 had the transmission cover off, the bull gears had been apart and not completely put back on, set open and the block is not just cracked, but popped up and busted, at least its not stuck...because there arent any pistons in it..imagine that, but hey, at least the valve/tappet cover is rusted out

    AndyB , the 29 is in better shape, but yes its stuck. I normally just soak them in either diesel or 50/50 mix of atf and acetone. Ill let that soak a day or two and check for leaks. What i have found is if the head gasket leaks, water or moisture will normally get in, reeking havoc on the block. If i dont see any leaks ill start putting pressure on it. if that doesnt work, i just pull the block turn it upside down, try a couple more days of soaking and a 5 lbs sledge and if that doesnt work, i get the torch out and start warming the cylinder walls, and knocking it out, it doesnt normally take much with the torch. If they are that stuck, you normally need to clean the cylinder walls and check the rings anyway, so your not out much anyway.

    I have seen a lot of guys confuse a locked up tractor with the clutch being stuck. the clutch assembly on the waterloo 2 cylinders are a completely different animal because of the way they work. The sliding disks and disk driver are more apt to stick and ive seen guys just tear a lot of things up trying to free a tractor when it was the clutch that needed disassembled.

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    andy b. (09-01-2013)

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    If/when you start taking the '29 apart, I would be real interested in seeing photos of the process. The '29 I would like to someday restore is stuck and filled with kerosene at present. Maybe next spring I'll start playing around with it some more.
    Andy B.

    1966 110 Lawn Tractor
    2012 2520 - DELIVERED 27APR2012!!!

    Tractor that I used to own - 1954 40 Utility
    KB3WPN

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    felixm22's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy b. View Post
    If/when you start taking the '29 apart, I would be real interested in seeing photos of the process. The '29 I would like to someday restore is stuck and filled with kerosene at present. Maybe next spring I'll start playing around with it some more.
    I would love to see the process as well


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    wingrider's Avatar
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    Looks like you have your work cut out for you, but fun projects non the less.

    You will have to forgive me for asking, I have been around two cylinders a bit, but never did a lot of wrenching on them...when you talk about the clutch being froze up, would the engine not spin if you turned the flywheel?

    I have a B in storage that I assume is froze up, but now you have me wondering if it could be the clutch? This one sat outside for some time...

    Sorry for high jacking your thread.
    -1967 110 RF with 20 hp V-twin

    -1959 Wizard garden tractor

    - 1990 870 utility with 440 loader

    - 1950 B

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    tlock0331's Avatar
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    Right off the bat, i apologize now for telling you stuff you may already know, my intent is not to belittle or talk down, everything i say is meant to be helpful and ease pain in the future...that being said...read on!

    im kinda new to this forum so i am experimenting and poking around more and more when i have time, and i have noticed that in my profile section, there is an album section, if it works the way i think it does, i will try to create an album of the 29, add pics throughout and if someone asks for something specific, i will try to highlight it if possible. I think this could be a neat way to show off project status, but ill tell ya now, the d will be kinda low on the totem pole, the plan will be to pull in the GP and the D at the same time because both will be taken down to the bare casting, blasted and put back together with everything getting paint, but I have a 70 diesel standard that i need to get running so Ill probably try the album thing out on that and see how it works.

    For AndyB & Wingrider - I dont know if you guys know this or not, but on mother deeres website, you can download the parts manual for free, its will be one of your very best friends, however, the service manual and owners manual you have to buy, but its WELL worth the 30 bucks, i buy all my manuals on cd so i can print pages that i tear up or grease up, but thats just me. If you have one of those aftermarket IT manuals, you can use it for various things...like a replacement for toilet paper, level out a table, start a bonfire, etc, because thats about all they are worth, at least to me :-)

    Andyb, is yours on steel or cutoffs? if you end up needing parts or anything let me know, and while we are at it, post a pic of it!! It cant be any more embarrassing than mine, can you tell me how close your serial number is to mine? mine is 84xxx how cool would that be if ours were 1 number apart haha

    Wingrider, you to, post of pic of the B! Depending on the serial number of your B, 60000-200999 used 2 clutch facings and a disk driver, 2001000+ used 2 clutch facings, a disk driver, a sliding disk, and a bonded clutch. So, if you CAN NOT SNAP the clutch in or out, try loosening the 3 clutch bolts all the way and see if it will then, if not you may as well pull the clutch apart, it only takes about 20 minutes and lot of WD-40, then clean everything up. - AT this point if the motor is not stuck you should be able to turn the flywheel, but i warn you, if the tractor has set several years NOT stuck and you go moving the flywheel a couple inches to see, odds are it will stick in a week, with no oil in the holes, it moves to a "dry" spot and thats all she wrote, if it moves, make a note that once a week, spray a little wd-40 in the holes and turn it over a couple times, keep doing this until your ready to fire it up. - Now back to the clutch. The disk driver itself will probably require a little heat to pop off, there will be a V mark on it and the crank, thats the alignment for them. The metal disks may be pitted or crappy looking, but for just trying to get the clutch to just SNAP, dont lose any sleep over it, slap it back together and tighten the 3 nuts evenly, if you turn one nut a 1/4 turn, turn them all a 1/4 turn. the end result is to try and have them torqued all the same. Hopefully i made this more confusing....

    Sorry about making this post longer, but on the subject of clutches, John Deere 2 Cyl Tractor OLDJDFORYOU Parts has about the best deal on clutches ive seen around, and i normally order 4 because the shipping is the same if i buy 1 or 4, by the weight.

  14. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to tlock0331 For This Useful Post:

    farmgirl19 (09-03-2013), wingrider (09-02-2013)

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