KennyD's 3rd Function Kit
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    rtgt's Avatar
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    KennyD's 3rd Function Kit

    Contents:
    Rear Lines with connectors
    Front Lines with connectors and mounting block
    Rubber Pad for front mounting block
    Protective caps
    Zip Ties

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    All of the connectors were installed except the rear connectors where the 90's connected to the lines. These were shipped loose so that I could get the lines "clocked" before tightening them.

    The only physical difference I know of between the factory kit and Kenny's kit is the front lines. The factory kit has steel front lines and Kenny's are rubber. The factory kit has the connectors on the end of the steel lines. Kenny has a nice mounting block to hold the connectors.

    The biggest difference between Kenny's kit and JD's is cost. Since I don't know what Kenny is going to price this kit at I can't quote exact figures. I was a crash test dummy for Kenny so I might have gotten a little break in my price.
    What I do know is my dealer priced the third function at $569 when I was pricing out my tractor. Then I come to find out the third function is only available on the H165 loader which added another $1,000 to the bottom line. The H160 loader that was already on the tractor more than met my needs. With the dealer wanting to sell what he had in stock I was able to leverage a little better price since he couldn't add the third function to the H160. In the end, to get the factory third function, I would have paid about $2,000 for it.

    I started with the rear line set install.
    I didn't have to remove anything from the tractor. There is ample space to feed the lines under the seat platform.
    I did move the existing electrical mounting tab. I replaced the existing wire loom clamp with one I had on hand and "moved" the connection to the right side of the mounting bolt.

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    I then used a second clamp to hold the hoses and attached both clamps with the existing bolt.
    This could have just been zip tied as well, but I had the clamps so I used them.

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    This is how I setup the rear lines. I made this loop so that when the rockshaft was raised it would clear the lines

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    Next I routed the new lines following the existing steel lines for the SCV underneath the operators platform. I started by poking the connector end out between the existing SCV connector bracket and the loader frame. Then I mess around with routing until I was happy with where I wanted it. A couple loose zip ties will keep everything up in place while you pick your route. Then you can start snugging everything up working your way from the back of the floorboard to the front. There is plenty enough line length to allow you the route you like.

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    The rear lines end at the midpoint connection. I fished them in between the SCV connection bracket and the loader mount and kept them between a couple of the existing steel lines. One line is between the yellow and black ports, the other between the black and blue ports.

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    I removed the loader to install the front lines.

    With the loader off I removed the clamp that holds the line set to the side of the loader mast and then removed the zip tie that holds the line set to the clamp. There is also a zip tie holding the line set to the loader mast where the rubber lines connect to the steel lines and I removed that zip tie as well. The last zip tie is at the SCV connection point on the sheathing. All of these zip ties can be removed without cutting them. You just need a small flat blade screwdriver to release the locking tab in the zip tie. When you have the new lines installed, these zip ties can be re-used.

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    I started by loosely attaching the front mounting block on the cross tube of the loader. Leave the mounting block loose so that you can slide it left or right to adjust the line length as you need to.
    Then I fed the new lines up the loader mast following the existing steel lines. A couple loose zip ties helps to hold things while you find the route you like. Leave the zip ties loose so that you can still move the lines.

    When I got to where the steel lines connect to the rubber hoses, I straightened out the existing line set that is in the protective sheathing and then one line at a time I fed the new front lines through the sheathing.

    At this point you want to adjust the front mounting block so that the mid connection point couplers match the length of the existing couplers.

    With the connectors at the length I wanted them I started attaching the new lines to the existing steel lines starting from where the rubber lines connect to the steel lines and working my way toward the front mounting block.

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    Once I had the new lines secured to the existing steel lines on the loader mast I was able to establish where the front block was going to end up. Before zip tying the last length of the new lines, I removed the front mounting block and inserted the rubber pad between the middle two steel lines and the cross tube. I used a couple wooden shims to help lift the lines while I worked the rubber pad under the lines.

    With the rubber pad in place, I installed the front connector block and snugged up the hose clamp. There is another rubber pad on the bottom of the connector block and the middle two steel lines are sandwiched between the rubber pads. You only need to snug up the hose clamp enough to hold the mounting block in place. The hose clamp has a protective rubber sheath on it so there is no worries about scratching your new green paint on the cross tube.

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    The front mounting block ended up being about 12" - 14" inches from the side of the loader. It is easy to reach to connect and disconnect the lines and my Artillian grapple had plenty of line length to reach the connection point.

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    Now all that is left is to re-install the factory zip ties that you removed earlier.

    Re-attach the loader and you are ready to grapple! (or whatever you were going to use the third function for)

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    In the beginning I marked one line with a green zip tie so that I could keep track of which line was connected to which rear port. In the end I found out that wasn't necessary. Once I had everything setup I connected the grapple and pushed the upper button on the loader stick. The grapple didn't open. I swapped the connections at the front mounting block and like magic, when the top button was depressed the grapple opened. With the lines connected the way I wanted them to function, I installed the color coded caps.

    I also had Kenny install a restrictor in the front line set. He sent me a couple videos before he shipped the parts. One without the restrictor and one with the restrictor. Even with 1/4" lines there is plenty of flow to the front. Without the restrictor the grapple opened and closed pretty quickly so I opted for the restrictor. If you have more than one front implement using the third function and you want to customize the flow to each implement you could install the restrictor in the line on each implement.

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    All told, it took me two to three hours to install this kit. I wasn't in a hurry and took my time figuring out where I wanted everything routed. If you have a plan and just go do it, this kit could probably be installed in an hour.
    There are no special tools that you need and aside from removing the loader, nothing has to be removed from the tractor. Nothing needs to be modified on the tractor or the loader. You could remove this kit and no one would ever know it had been on the tractor.

    I have been using the third function now for about a month and it is working just like it should. Aside from the connectors on the back, in the middle, and on the front, you don't even notice it. However; every time I push the buttons on the loader stick using my grapple, I get a real big grin on my face.

    One last detail that I seemed to have forgotten: This kit was installed on an open station 3039R with a H160 Loader. The 3rd SCV was factory installed.
    Gizmo2, North585, fdmars and 22 others like this.
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    Official "Groovie" Dude
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    Very nice install and great write-up.

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    Thanks for the review. Looks like you did as good, or better/cleaner job routing the hoses, as JD.
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    Well done on the install and very well done on the description and photo's.

    Your directions and instructions were written well, clear and made sense. Not everyone can accomplish that, but you did.
    Gizmo2, rtgt, PJR832 and 1 others like this.

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    Hi Guys,
    Newbie here,

    I looked on Ken's site and there's no phone number that I could find.
    I just got a 2009 2520 with the 200CX loader and a belly mower. I'm getting a grapple, so I need to know if this is the right kit for operating the grapple cylinder?

    I've searched the forum for the topic and there's a lot of confusing information for someone new to the tractors. This should be fairly simple to make one extra hydraulic cylinder work.

    Thanks in advance for any help.
    PJR832 likes this.

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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    Welcome to GTT MCBB,
    Unless your used 2520 came with the optional 3rd SCV kit (a extra valve mounted on the ROPS) then no this kit will not help you at all. Your best bet to operate a grapple would be the Artillian Diverter Kit, it’s 100% plug and play and there is no mods to the tractor or loader.

    Fairly simple, yes...fairly cheap, no Nothing about hydraulics is cheap except o-rings and advice on GTT

    There are a few other options, but some cost more and some require knowledge of fittings and hydraulics.
    Kenny

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kennyd View Post
    Welcome to GTT MCBB,
    Unless your used 2520 came with the optional 3rd SCV kit (a extra valve mounted on the ROPS) then no this kit will not help you at all. Your best bet to operate a grapple would be the Artillian Diverter Kit, it’s 100% plug and play and there is no mods to the tractor or loader.

    Fairly simple, yes...fairly cheap, no Nothing about hydraulics is cheap except o-rings and advice on GTT

    There are a few other options, but some cost more and some require knowledge of fittings and hydraulics.
    OK. So true. Simple is not always cheap.
    Thanks for your help KennyD!
    2009 JD2520-200CX-Mower

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    Welcome to GTT, MotorCityBadBoy!!

    This hydraulics stuff is confusing. I'm actually going to start another thread in the next day or so with some pictures of the hydraulics on my tractor so smart guys like Kenny can tell me what I have on it.

    Kenny gave you some GREAT advice with regards to the Artillian diverter if you want to run a grapple. Hydraulic Products It is expensive and you're probably going to get some "you already spent $XXXXXX on that stupid tractor and now you need to spend more???" grief from your other half. I spent hours and hours reading stuff on diverters and dissecting threads from guys that have pieced systems together their own. As I type this, I'm even looking at a $229 aluminium paperweight (actually it's a diverter valve I bought from an online supply house) purchased with the intent of piecing together my own. Eventually, the reality of trying to figure out hose diameters, fitting types, hydraulic terminology, etc., etc., etc. all convinced me to just purchase the Artillian diverter and call it a day. I had it installed in a few hours (it should only take a couple of hours, but I'm an old-n-slow gray haired fat guy!) and it's worked great for me! This kit is not just for the Artillian Grapple (which I don't own) - mine powers a grapple thumb mounted on my bucket, a hydraulic tree puller and my newly acquired snow blade.

    The Artillian kit is designed specifically for your tractor / loader combination. The one for the 200CX loader doesn't even require drilling any holes. The toughest decision you're going to have to make is whether or not you have a cigarette lighter on the tractor to plug the power into or if you're going to have to tap into the fuse panel to power it.

    If your time is worth more than $3.00 / hour, you're going to be money ahead to just buy this kit.
    Kennyd likes this.
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    Ken, Any plans for a kit for an open station 5055E?

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