Land clearing for pole barn construction.
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    Land clearing for pole barn construction.

    So I recently purchased 30 ac and will be building a home and pole barn on-site, the problem is that the current clearing in the trees isn't big enough for both, so I need to do some clearing in the woods for the pole barn.

    I'm assuming that any stumps, roots, etc. MUST be removed from the soil rather than buried, correct?

    Plan is a 30x48' with 14' walls and a 4 or 6" concrete floor (Class A motorhome to be stored inside.)

    Recommendations? I'm thinking i need to bring in a crew to perform this type of clearing. Mostly 6" dia and smaller trees, but a couple fairly large ones as well (12-15" dia)
    mjncad, etcallhome, rtgt and 3 others like this.
    -Scott-

    2014 1025R - 60D 7-Iron MMM, H120 53" FEL/Ballast Box, Ken's hooks and Piranha toothbar, BB2048L Boxblade, 54" snowblade Quick-tatch w/full hydraulic lift/tilt.

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    coaltrain's Avatar
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    Around here the common way they clear trees for a building site is to use a good size dozer and push the trees over. This way the stump comes up as the tree goes down and can all be moved or disposed of.

    When I had a driveway pushed in through the woods I asked the contractor if I should cut the trees first to save some money. He said it will cost more that way for all the time it will take to dig the stumps out.

    These were all 60’-80’ / 12”-14” diameter cherry and maple trees.
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    Quote Originally Posted by coaltrain View Post
    Around here the common way they clear trees for a building site is to use a good size dozer and push the trees over. This way the stump comes up as the tree goes down and can all be moved or disposed of.

    When I had a driveway pushed in through the woods I asked the contractor if I should cut the trees first to save some money. He said it will cost more that way for all the time it will take to dig the stumps out.

    These were all 60’-80’ / 12”-14” diameter cherry and maple trees.
    Just what I was wanting to hear. I'm hoping if I hit it early enough in the spring the ground will still be a little wet and allow for easier removal.

    Thanks coaltrain.
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    -Scott-

    2014 1025R - 60D 7-Iron MMM, H120 53" FEL/Ballast Box, Ken's hooks and Piranha toothbar, BB2048L Boxblade, 54" snowblade Quick-tatch w/full hydraulic lift/tilt.

    You don't have to outrun the bear......just the other campers

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    my brother-in law (contractor) and his buddy (excavator) used a small trackhoe to push over all of my trees that were in the way. Only a few gave em problems that needed dug out, but most just pushed right over.
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    Yes, absolutely remove the stumps and roots prior to your build. Once they rot they’ll leave voids and you’ll have potential for all sorts of issues later on down the road.
    2004-L130

    2013-2032r, Curtis Hard side cab (project), H130 FEL & 61"bucket, Artillian Modular Grapple on HD frame with Diverter, 2300# Artillian frame w/ 36" x 3" tines, 46BH 9" & 13" bucket, Frontier RB1060, HLA 1000 series 60" JDQA Snow plow, JD ballast box, RK QH, Homemade 3pt multi purpose hitch, 117W of extra LED lights on ROPS and side Brush guards, Ken's bolt on hooks-3x, Ideal Knife grooved R-4's.

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    When I had a couple of acres cleared for my lot I had a guy come in with a track hoe and a dozer. They pushed over the trees and then stacked up a debris pile in one place. I should have them do it in a couple of spots to make it easier to either pick off and burn or burn in place. I have been picking at my pile now off/on now for about 2 years slowly burning it up.

    You have a couple of decisions to make, do you want the debris hauled off or do you want to save some money and just have them pile it some place? Also if you need fire wood do you want to be there to salvage the hard woods?

    Now, whoever clears it, is not going to get all the roots or even all of the stumps. It will depend on what type of foundation you have if this is a problem. I had a slab poured for both the house and my shop. For the house they removed any big lingering root systems but they had no issues leaving small stuff.

    For my shop the crew had to remove one buried stump since it was where they were doing the footings.

    For the rest of the lot, I was picking roots for most of the first year. I still have a bunch buried but they are much easier to remove now they have been dead for quite some times. You will never get rid of them totally, at least not down here in NC. Just remember if you pull up big stumps they leave a hole/void that needs backfilling.

    Bottom line this not a task I would consider doing on my own. A couple of big pieces of equipment will make short work of it. It took my guys about 3 working days to make the lot presentable. I had about 2 acres cleared and I harvested the hard woods.
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    Recommend a 5" slab, five bag mix. Rebar on 18" centers. I have my 32,000 pound coach on part of my shop slab. 5" slab is thick enough for a vehicle lift. I have a 10,500 pound two post lift in the shop part of the slab.
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    Senior GTT Super Slacker Gizmo2's Avatar
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    As others have said, bring in a dozer. Do all the landscaping now before you build anything.
    Give yourself plenty of treeless ground around the area where buildings will be. Trees grow and eventually most come down.
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    You should offer supervisory services Giz
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    Quote Originally Posted by johncanfield View Post
    Recommend a 5" slab, five bag mix. Rebar on 18" centers. I have my 32,000 pound coach on part of my shop slab. 5" slab is thick enough for a vehicle lift. I have a 10,500 pound two post lift in the shop part of the slab.
    Do you think a 4" slab would suffice? My coach is only about 16,000lb (28' Safari Trek) - and I'll most likely be selling that anyway (along with a 26' Class C i also have) to help fund this endeavor.
    -Scott-

    2014 1025R - 60D 7-Iron MMM, H120 53" FEL/Ballast Box, Ken's hooks and Piranha toothbar, BB2048L Boxblade, 54" snowblade Quick-tatch w/full hydraulic lift/tilt.

    You don't have to outrun the bear......just the other campers

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