Water Drain Line
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    rakane's Avatar
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    Water Drain Line

    My impending drain line installation will need some protection from my truck towing a heavy boat to the shop.

    I was planning on installing 4" schedule 40 perforated pipe with some side channels. I will need to drive my truck over this line in two places. Heavy diesel truck with heavier boat.

    Have you any ideas on how to protect the drain line?

    I was planning on sand in the bottom, with cloth and river rock. The area turns into mush now, so I need to carry that water to a ditch to access my shop. Minimal dirt over clay. Surface channeling is not an option (faux stream).

    Any help will be appreciated. I have a big ditch witch reserved for June 27.

    Randy



    Meanwhile is a 30' Grady White.

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    Can you go solid wall where you'll drive over the line? FWIW, my septic line is inside a Sched 80 sleeve under the driveway. Installer said we should be able to run a loaded concrete truck over it.
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    If you are running that pipe 2' or more deep I wouldn't worry about it. The weight of anything going over the pipe gets disbursed by the soil itself. The deeper you bury, the less weight the pipe sees.
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    rakane's Avatar
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    I could do a couple sticks of solid schedule 80. The depth will be controlled by the needed drop. I will measure the drop tomorrow to see how deep I need to be.

    Meanwhile is a 30' Grady White.

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    Our septic line depth under the driveway isn't very deep.

    Looking from house

    Looking to house after covered
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Septic line under drive.jpg   Septic line under drive covered.jpg  
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    Are you planning on a french drain arrangement or are you installing a drain line to carry away water from a downspout? You indicated you are thinking about perforated pipe so I assuming a french drain arrangement.

    If installing a french drain, depending on how wet the area is, you will want a ditch about 18" to 2' deep. The wetter the area is, the deeper your ditch should be. Put a 3" layer in the bottom, then lay your pipe, then cover with 2B stone, cover stone with geotex and then cover with 6" of topsoil. If you are going this deep with the pipe, the kind of pipe you use is less important.

    Concerning what pipe to use. With 12" - 15" of cover, you could use SDR35 gasketed (I like this stuff) or schedule 40 perforated under the area you are going to drive.
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    I'm planning a french drain, 250' plus to ditch, 2 x 20' side branches into the 250 line.

    So for a fair flow, how much should I drop in every 50'?

    Oh, after web research, divide the distance by 8 to get the drop. Not gonna happen. I think I have 2.5' over 250'. Living in the flatlands.

    First project like this. Wish I'd added a backhoe. But at $240 per day for a nice rider DitchWitch I'll pay per day.

    Meanwhile is a 30' Grady White.
    Last edited by rakane; 06-23-2018 at 08:54 PM.
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    Why worry with pipe? Just filling 1 foot deep trench with clean rock would be plenty to filter the water away.
    I would use railroad rock in the traffic area.

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    Ray_PA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rakane View Post
    I'm planning a french drain, 250' plus to ditch, 2 x 20' side branches into the 250 line.

    So for a fair flow, how much should I drop in every 50'?

    Oh, after web research, divide the distance by 8 to get the drop. Not gonna happen. I think I have 2.5' over 250'. Living in the flatlands.

    First project like this. Wish I'd added a backhoe. But at $240 per day for a nice rider DitchWitch I'll pay per day.

    Meanwhile is a 30' Grady White.
    Yes, for french drains it is generally recommended the minimum pipe slope is 1/8" per foot. As you said, in your 250' run, that would be a minimum of about 2-1/2' of drop.

    Essentially, you create the required slope by digging the trench the appropriate depth and taper and then create the fine tuned taper by grading the layer of stone in the bottom of the trench to match the required taper.

    If you use 4" pipe, with about 3" of 2B stone below the pipe, 12" of 2B stone over the pipe and 4" of top soil, you will start your trench at about 24" deep. This would make the end of your trench about 4 - 1/2' deep. Trying to run water downhill in a 250' long trench takes taper. As you know, water will not run uphill.

    I know you say you are in "flat land" but the only way to know for sure is to shoot your grade before you start.

    You need one of these. https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...w0j038n_e_p37A A tripod with a rotary laser mounted to it along with a grade post and audible receiver. Set up and shoot the existing grade to determine the existing slope, if any, then you know how much taper you have now and how much you will need.

    The first thing to determine is, what is the elevation at the beginning end of the drain line and what is the elevation of the drainage ditch. This will show you it you have enough taper to even start this project.

    If you do not have enough taper, you may consider a dry well. You would create the french drain system in the area that is wet, then direct this pipe into the dry well. This may be a better solution than trying to carry water 250' though a pipe.

    When I installed my drainage system, I buried a 3' diameter x 16' long ADS perforated drain pipe in a pit lined with number 4 rock. My main drain line runs into the top of the underground drain pipe. I run all of my spoutings and driveway drains into this underground drainage pit. The capacity of my pit is about 1000 gallons. Now, this is extreme compared to what you need, although, the concept will most likely work.

    Here are some links that show dry wells and how to install.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMrPnyz6rdI

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WieGD8Zvo5A

    https://www.amazon.com/NDS-FWAS24-28...48147297&psc=1

    https://www.ndspro.com/
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    rakane's Avatar
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    Where I live I would need a pump on any drywell.

    We spoke to the county inspector and my only option is to put some water in the county ditch.

    The only reason the builders were allowed a drain field for septic was the installation of a two stage system with pumps. So the septic field is under pressure when it pumps effluent. I still am amazed it passed any perc test.

    Thanks for the assistance. It makes sense. I'm using the hard pipe so I can more easily measure the slope. It would be more difficult with the corrugated flex pipe.

    I'll look at renting a visible laser system tomorrow. The line level is not cutting it.

    Meanwhile is a 30' Grady White.

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