Leveling land technique
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14
Like Tree4Likes

Thread: Leveling land technique

  1. Top | #1

    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Last Online
    06-03-2016 @ 09:54 AM
    Location
    Quincy MA.
    Posts
    115
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 50 Times in 14 Posts

    Leveling land technique

    Hi folks, I'm looking for some advice from the GTT army.

    I am eager to tackle a project that I have yet tried (to this large degree) yet. I have a piece of property up in Maine and want to level an area approx 8,000 sq. ft (80'x100') level to plant some grass seed.

    Picture a rectangular piece of property that is approx. 3' at the lowest point. Its highest point I'll need to fill approx 6". I have a box blade and york rake.

    My question is; How do I go about tackling this? do I start at the lowest point and work my way up? Any links or info. others with greater experience can offer will be greatly appreciated. Pic not to scale

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	level area.png 
Views:	78 
Size:	71.9 KB 
ID:	46440
    Last edited by Petron; 06-02-2015 at 04:17 PM.
    1996 John Deere 870

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. Top | #2
    Jim Timber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Last Online
    08-18-2019 @ 08:55 AM
    Location
    Brainerd/Metro, MN
    Posts
    2,965
    Thanks
    25
    Thanked 239 Times in 177 Posts
    First, you don't really want it level. You want some slope so water that won't soak into the ground has somewhere to go. You don't need much, but you do want some...

    Second, it's easiest to start from a level spot and expand it. I've found getting things level with just the bucket is a bit tricky without being able to approach from different directions to work over holes and hills. The areas I can get two different angles on aren't so bad because if you have a high spot next to a low spot, you just change how you aim at it and can push/pull the material into the low.
    5065E MFWD w/553 loader

  4. Top | #3

    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 12:13 PM
    Location
    West Michigan
    Posts
    1,921
    Thanks
    95
    Thanked 220 Times in 176 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Timber View Post
    First, you don't really want it level. You want some slope so water that won't soak into the ground has somewhere to go. You don't need much, but you do want some...

    Second, it's easiest to start from a level spot and expand it. I've found getting things level with just the bucket is a bit tricky without being able to approach from different directions to work over holes and hills. The areas I can get two different angles on aren't so bad because if you have a high spot next to a low spot, you just change how you aim at it and can push/pull the material into the low.
    2x!!!!
    2004-L130

    2013-2032r, Curtis Hard side cab (project), H130 FEL & 61"bucket, Artillian Modular Grapple on HD frame with Diverter, 2300# Artillian frame w/ 36" x 3" tines, 46BH 9" & 13" bucket, Frontier RB1060, HLA 1000 series 60" JDQA Snow plow, JD ballast box, RK QH, Homemade 3pt multi purpose hitch, 117W of extra LED lights on ROPS and side Brush guards, Ken's bolt on hooks-3x, Ideal Knife grooved R-4's.

  5. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. Top | #4

    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Last Online
    10-21-2019 @ 12:07 PM
    Location
    Calgary AB, Canada
    Posts
    730
    Thanks
    5
    Thanked 54 Times in 52 Posts
    How do you want to do it? Pull material from the top and move it down to average it out? Or pull material away from the top and make it all level with the bottom?

    For that big an area a roller would be handy to finish it off otherwise it will have settled and be lumpy next year. Do you plave to park vehicles/RVs on it? If so you'll definitely want to roller it.
    F932-gas with 72" mower deck(sold)
    2720-72" mower deck with hydraulic lift, 3 valve rear SCV, loader, bucket, forks, 84" RFM, blade, 74" snow blower, box blade, land grader........
    2305- sold
    Z915B

  7. Top | #5
    636mullet's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Last Online
    05-14-2019 @ 07:05 AM
    Location
    Council Bluffs, IA
    Posts
    1,626
    Thanks
    127
    Thanked 188 Times in 170 Posts
    I agree that some slope is nice to have as it helps drain water off. It doesn’t have to be anything major just enough to keep it from collecting water and killing your grass. If I were to do it I'd spray it to kill anything growing. Once it's all dead I'd get something to break up the soil. It could be a disk, cultivator, maybe even a tiller. What you want to do is break up the top layer of soil. With the box blade you can pull high spots into low spots and get everything "roughed" in. I love using an old time harrow for finish dirt work. It acts as a landplane to level out small high spots and breaks up clods into nice soil. Once you've got it all smoothed out you'll want to spread your grass seed evenly. Then I like to run my harrow over it to mix the seed into the ground. After that I run my roller over it and give everything a nice smooth finish. Then water it. I've never done a section that big, but my yard is a breeze to mow with my 60D deck now that I've fixed all my trouble spots. I've used this technique a bunch now and it works like a charm!


    -636
    Early 2012 1026R with H120 and 60" auto connect MMM

  8. Top | #6
    636mullet's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Last Online
    05-14-2019 @ 07:05 AM
    Location
    Council Bluffs, IA
    Posts
    1,626
    Thanks
    127
    Thanked 188 Times in 170 Posts
    I might have mis-read your post the first time. Are you looking to have truck loads of dirt brought in? I see you want to raise the area 6" on one side and 3' on the other. I see you have an 870, box blade, and york rake. Do you have a loader or skid loader available? If dump trucks bring in fill dirt or top soil you'll need something to spread the piles out.

    -636
    Early 2012 1026R with H120 and 60" auto connect MMM

  9. Top | #7

    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Last Online
    06-03-2016 @ 09:54 AM
    Location
    Quincy MA.
    Posts
    115
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 50 Times in 14 Posts
    Gentleman, great answers, that's what I was looking for as I have little experience leveling such a large area.

    I agree, my plan from day one was to have a slight slope away from the camp.

    Basically it'll be a flat area where I plan to build an outdoor pavilion later on.

    No vehicles will be parked here.

    Plan was to have several hundred yards dumped in all areas.

    I do have a 440 loader and 8B BH on my tractor as well
    1996 John Deere 870

  10. Top | #8

    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 09:16 PM
    Location
    Eastern Virginia, United States
    Posts
    4,558
    Thanks
    345
    Thanked 821 Times in 538 Posts

    Set some reference posts

    I think you will do yourself a favor by setting some reference posts at least in the corners and mark the level. On a large area, it's really easy to see a piece of land as flat and then find it's not level or worse, slopes the wrong way. The reference posts with a bright line across at the level area makes it relatively easy to get close to a final grade from the tractor seat.

    Treefarmer
    636mullet and Jim Timber like this.
    John Deere 790, 300 loader w Ken's Bolt on Hooks & Piranha tooth bar, grapple, back blade, box blade, Bush Hog mower, couple of red tractors, hay equipment, various old stuff some red, one orange, some I don't remember

  11. Top | #9
    636mullet's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Last Online
    05-14-2019 @ 07:05 AM
    Location
    Council Bluffs, IA
    Posts
    1,626
    Thanks
    127
    Thanked 188 Times in 170 Posts
    Beings you have to add the soil anyway, is there anything stopping you from putting down some tile just to help the water drain off? If you plan on making it a useable space having tile might make it same day usable during rainy seasons. That would really help eliminate squishy spots. When dealing with that big of an area you'll always have low spots that collect water worse than others... Just a thought. Once all that dirt is in place adding tile is just that much harder to do.

    -636
    Treefarmer likes this.
    Early 2012 1026R with H120 and 60" auto connect MMM

  12. Top | #10

    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Last Online
    06-03-2016 @ 09:54 AM
    Location
    Quincy MA.
    Posts
    115
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 50 Times in 14 Posts
    636 - I'm not familiar with the term tile? I'm getting the idea of what you're saying but not familiar with that term. Is it landscapers cloth? Thanks.
    1996 John Deere 870

  13. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •