Box Blade Recommendations and "How to" manage a non-paved driveway?
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 20
Like Tree3Likes

Thread: Box Blade Recommendations and "How to" manage a non-paved driveway?

  1. Top | #1

    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Last Online
    @
    Location
    Central CT
    Posts
    2,337
    Thanks
    6
    Thanked 220 Times in 174 Posts

    Box Blade Recommendations and "How to" manage a non-paved driveway?

    Hi, all.

    I have a driveway that's about 110' in length from garage door to the road. At the apron of the road, it's roughly 18-20' wide and continues like this about half its length. At that point, it sweeps out on one side, broadening to about 30' or so i width. It meets up with the cement pad of the two-car-wide garage and extends beyond it on one side by 10' or so.

    It's pretty beat at the road end and maybe for the first 15' of its length. In fact, it's mostly deteriorated down to the sub-material with most of the asphalt gone. I clear snow with the bucket on the loader, and have absolutely no interest in having it resurfaced as the cost is just ridiculous. I'm seriously considering ripping out the asphalt and having something like crushed limestone trucked in to surface it with.

    Here are my questions:

    - Aside from having the driveway paved or cemented, what options are available that would give a "reasonably" smooth and hard surface to work with? And, how would it need to be constructed if materials need to be put down in layers?

    - Assuming that I end up with some sort of stone/dirt material, would I be best suited to use a box blade for keeping it trimmed up nicely? If so, what width would make sense to drag behind my 2520 for this purpose?
    ---

    2011 JD 2520 with 200cx loader, 61" materials bucket, and Artillian JDQA Pallet Forks (42" forks). 62D MMM, ballast box, turfs, and loaded rears.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. Top | #2
    PaDave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Last Online
    10-06-2019 @ 06:29 PM
    Location
    NW.PA
    Posts
    432
    Thanks
    146
    Thanked 107 Times in 77 Posts
    I used 2RC limestone for decades on our drive. It packs in well and doesn't roll out of place like 2B.
    I never dressed it up once it was packed in place or had need to.
    3520, Sicma 74 tiller, 12Kw PTO gen, 72"auto connect deck, 300cx FEL, 61"HD w/JD toothbar & 6ft snow pusher, JD Ballast box w/Extension, Land Pride FDR-2584 finish mower,

  4. Top | #3

    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Last Online
    @
    Location
    Central CT
    Posts
    2,337
    Thanks
    6
    Thanked 220 Times in 174 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by PaDave View Post
    I used 2RC limestone for decades on our drive. It packs in well and doesn't roll out of place like 2B.
    I never dressed it up once it was packed in place or had need to.
    Thanks for the info. Did you put it in or have it done? And, if you put it in, what did you use to spread, level, and compact?
    ---

    2011 JD 2520 with 200cx loader, 61" materials bucket, and Artillian JDQA Pallet Forks (42" forks). 62D MMM, ballast box, turfs, and loaded rears.

  5. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. Top | #4
    glc
    glc is offline
    glc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Last Online
    Today @ 09:29 AM
    Location
    Big Beaver,Pa
    Posts
    5,244
    Thanks
    520
    Thanked 403 Times in 361 Posts
    Can't really tell you how to start from scratch as far as "building" a good base. As for maintaining,I pretty much took it upon myself to take care of our private drive (actually a farm field access road that us and 7 other homes use) which is a 3/10 of a mile gravel road. The owner/farmer keeps me stocked with a nice pile of 2RC (with powder) limestone. During the summer I usually just keep the potholes filled. I've only had to do it once this year,even with all the rain. It's going to need attended to for sure before winter though. Speaking of winter,that's what really tears it up. Springtime it's a real Ho Chi Minh trail. That's when I'll "remove" all the holes by running my box blade up and down the entire length. I'll do this while I still have my chains on,and it works awesome. I have a Woods GB65,and the 2520 has no problem pulling it.
    Last edited by glc; 10-06-2013 at 10:36 AM.
    Greg from western pa



    2009 2520
    FEL/61" HD bucket/replaceable cutting edge
    62D2 MMM
    IMatch Quick Hitch
    A "REAL" snow blade ---- JD 380A modded to fit
    Homemade 3PT Receiver
    Homemade Ballast Box
    Woods GB65 Box Blade

    2019 JOHN DEERE X390 with 48" ACCEL DEEP DECK

    MY 2520 SE SEAT MOD:

    https://www.greentractortalk.com/for...d-for-the-2520

    MY BALLAST BOX
    https://www.greentractortalk.com/for...llast-box.html

  7. Top | #5

    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Last Online
    @
    Location
    Central CT
    Posts
    2,337
    Thanks
    6
    Thanked 220 Times in 174 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by glc View Post
    Can't really tell you how to start from scratch as far as "building" a good base. As for maintaining,I pretty much took it upon myself to take care of our private drive (actually a farm field access road that us and 7 other homes use) which is a 3/10 of a mile gravel road. The owner/farmer keeps me stocked with a nice pile of 2RC (with powder) limestone. During the summer I usually just keep the potholes filled. I've only had to do it once this year,even with all the rain. It's going to need attended to for sure before winter though. Speaking of winter,that's what really tears it up. Springtime it's a real Ho Chi Minh trail. That's when I'll "remove" all the holes by running my box blade up and down the entire length. I'll do this while I still have my chains on,and it works awesome. I have a Woods GB60,and the 2520 has no problem pulling it.
    I'm guessing that part of the "damage" incurred in the winter is from snow clearing - do you plow with a blade, or use a loader? My machine has R3s and I don't use chains. How much of a headache would you imagine that would create?

    That's the second post showing 2RC, so I'll have to see what that will cost me to truck in. How deep do you have it set?
    ---

    2011 JD 2520 with 200cx loader, 61" materials bucket, and Artillian JDQA Pallet Forks (42" forks). 62D MMM, ballast box, turfs, and loaded rears.

  8. Top | #6
    glc
    glc is offline
    glc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Last Online
    Today @ 09:29 AM
    Location
    Big Beaver,Pa
    Posts
    5,244
    Thanks
    520
    Thanked 403 Times in 361 Posts
    I made a mistake on the box blade size. It's GB65.

    I'm guessing that part of the "damage" incurred in the winter is from snow clearing
    Actually no. It's from the vehicle traffic and a spring that constantly has water flowing along part of the road which causes some serious ice buildup and freezing/thawing cycle.
    I do use a snow blade. It's a JD 380A that was modded (thanks to help from kennyd) to fit the 2520. Now that is the blade that should be offered for these larger tractors. Not that dinky little sheet metal thing that they figure is supposed to work on all their models. I can still pull the box blade without chains. Just a bit more traction while they're on is all.

    How deep do you have it set?
    Not sure what you're asking.
    Last edited by glc; 08-23-2013 at 05:38 PM.
    Greg from western pa



    2009 2520
    FEL/61" HD bucket/replaceable cutting edge
    62D2 MMM
    IMatch Quick Hitch
    A "REAL" snow blade ---- JD 380A modded to fit
    Homemade 3PT Receiver
    Homemade Ballast Box
    Woods GB65 Box Blade

    2019 JOHN DEERE X390 with 48" ACCEL DEEP DECK

    MY 2520 SE SEAT MOD:

    https://www.greentractortalk.com/for...d-for-the-2520

    MY BALLAST BOX
    https://www.greentractortalk.com/for...llast-box.html

  9. Top | #7

    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Last Online
    @
    Location
    Central CT
    Posts
    2,337
    Thanks
    6
    Thanked 220 Times in 174 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by glc View Post
    I made a mistake on the box blade size. It's GB65.
    Would that indicate 65"? And the other would have been 60"? I'm thinking a 5' box blade would be about the right size for me, and yours would be slightly larger if that's what those numbers mean.

    Quote Originally Posted by glc View Post
    Actually no. It's from the vehicle traffic and a spring that constantly has water flowing along part of the road which causes some serious ice buildup and freezing/thawing cycle.
    I do use a snow blade. It's a JD 380A that was modded (thanks to help from kennyd) to fit the 2520. Now that is the blade that should be offered for these larger tractors. Not that dinky little sheet metal thing that they figure is supposed to work on all their models. I can still pull the box blade without chains. Just a bit more traction while they're on is all.
    My biggest concern with all of this is that I will lose the inherent ice melting quality of the asphalt since I will no longer have a very dark surface to attract bits of warmth from the sun. And, since it's a porous material (at least, more porous than what I have now), freeze / thaw could certainly make a mess of things.



    Quote Originally Posted by glc View Post
    Not sure what you're asking.
    How deep is the material you're working with in terms of a "base"? 2", 6", more? I'm wondering how much material I would need on top of the dirt and such underneath to provide the sort of durability I'm looking for.
    ---

    2011 JD 2520 with 200cx loader, 61" materials bucket, and Artillian JDQA Pallet Forks (42" forks). 62D MMM, ballast box, turfs, and loaded rears.

  10. Top | #8
    glc
    glc is offline
    glc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Last Online
    Today @ 09:29 AM
    Location
    Big Beaver,Pa
    Posts
    5,244
    Thanks
    520
    Thanked 403 Times in 361 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by meburdick View Post
    Would that indicate 65"? And the other would have been 60"? I'm thinking a 5' box blade would be about the right size for me, and yours would be slightly larger if that's what those numbers mean.

    Yes,it's 65"


    My biggest concern with all of this is that I will lose the inherent ice melting quality of the asphalt since I will no longer have a very dark surface to attract bits of warmth from the sun. And, since it's a porous material (at least, more porous than what I have now), freeze / thaw could certainly make a mess of things.

    Snow does linger longer on this type of surface for sure,and yes the months of cold,snow,and ice does a real number on it.




    How deep is the material you're working with in terms of a "base"? 2", 6", more? I'm wondering how much material I would need on top of the dirt and such underneath to provide the sort of durability I'm looking for.

    This road has been here for a long time. Over 70-80 years for sure. Not only the vehicles,but in the spring/summer it sees a good amount of large (6-7000 series JD's) farm equipment traffic too. I have the scarifers set all the way down,and I'll turn up 95% limestone,so it's probably a fairly deep base.
    Last edited by glc; 08-23-2013 at 06:56 PM.
    Greg from western pa



    2009 2520
    FEL/61" HD bucket/replaceable cutting edge
    62D2 MMM
    IMatch Quick Hitch
    A "REAL" snow blade ---- JD 380A modded to fit
    Homemade 3PT Receiver
    Homemade Ballast Box
    Woods GB65 Box Blade

    2019 JOHN DEERE X390 with 48" ACCEL DEEP DECK

    MY 2520 SE SEAT MOD:

    https://www.greentractortalk.com/for...d-for-the-2520

    MY BALLAST BOX
    https://www.greentractortalk.com/for...llast-box.html

  11. Top | #9

    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Last Online
    @
    Location
    Central CT
    Posts
    2,337
    Thanks
    6
    Thanked 220 Times in 174 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by glc View Post
    This road has been here for a long time. Over 70-80 years for sure. Not only the vehicles,but in the spring/summer it sees a good amount of large (6-7000 series JD's) farm equipment traffic too. I have the scarifers set all the way down,and I'll turn up 95% limestone,so it's probably a fairly deep base.
    That's kind of what I had thought might be the case. I suppose I could plan for about 2" of material to set the driveway and then bring more in if I need it.

    The other thing I'm considering is to only do a portion of the driveway. The section from the road in, for about the first 10-15', is very bad. The next 10' or so is poor, and the rest is fair. They're re-paving my street currently (they finished the grading today and may well put down the binder coat tomorrow). After the road deck is complete, the town will return to evaluate what portion of the apron they will replace to protect the new road. And, after they do that, I will have a much better idea of just how much of my driveway is "shot".

    Depending on the situation, I may only open up a portion of the driveway between the new apron they will put in and the portion of my driveway where it's cracked but not all heaved and broken. At least that way, the area where we park will have the potential to eventually be clear with some sun. The only problem with this plan is that it won't be enough to justify getting a box blade.
    ---

    2011 JD 2520 with 200cx loader, 61" materials bucket, and Artillian JDQA Pallet Forks (42" forks). 62D MMM, ballast box, turfs, and loaded rears.

  12. Top | #10
    arlen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Last Online
    Today @ 07:15 AM
    Location
    South East Minnesota
    Posts
    3,171
    Thanks
    337
    Thanked 419 Times in 315 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by meburdick View Post
    That's kind of what I had thought might be the case. I suppose I could plan for about 2" of material to set the driveway and then bring more in if I need it.

    The other thing I'm considering is to only do a portion of the driveway. The section from the road in, for about the first 10-15', is very bad. The next 10' or so is poor, and the rest is fair. They're re-paving my street currently (they finished the grading today and may well put down the binder coat tomorrow). After the road deck is complete, the town will return to evaluate what portion of the apron they will replace to protect the new road. And, after they do that, I will have a much better idea of just how much of my driveway is "shot".

    Depending on the situation, I may only open up a portion of the driveway between the new apron they will put in and the portion of my driveway where it's cracked but not all heaved and broken. At least that way, the area where we park will have the potential to eventually be clear with some sun. The only problem with this plan is that it won't be enough to justify getting a box blade.
    I would just fix and/or replace the asphalt. It would be hard to get used to not having it...once you've experienced a paved driveway. Of course, I've never had one. I can only dream about life in the "burbs" I bet a paved driveway is nice
    4720 66hp Open Station, Power Beyond, 3rd, 4th and 5th Rear SCV, iMatch, 400cx with SSQA, 3rd Loader Function, MX6, BoDozer Grapple
    JD 320D Skid Loader
    Gator 865r...Fully Pimped Out

    X748SE 24hp, 647 Tiller, 54" front blade, 47 Snow Blower, 62C deck, JD disk

    JD 997 Zero Turn

    Farmall B

    2 miniature donkeys, 1/8 hp (each)

  13. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 21
    Last Post: 10-25-2018, 02:19 PM
  2. "Distressed" KingKutter XB 4' Box Blade
    By Bubber in forum Implements & Attachments
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 11-26-2012, 03:28 PM
  3. Cool "box blade"
    By 56FordGuy in forum Implements & Attachments
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 10-12-2012, 05:38 AM
  4. Replies: 0
    Last Post: 04-25-2011, 06:31 PM
  5. "How I spent my summer vacation" or "How not to do a gravel driveway."
    By mjncad in forum Land Ownership, Landscaping, Lawn Care & Gardening
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 02-02-2011, 11:07 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •