4310, Curtis Cab, and non-working "work" light
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Thread: 4310, Curtis Cab, and non-working "work" light

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    FredSG's Avatar
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    4310, Curtis Cab, and non-working "work" light

    Hello,

    I need some guidance. I need some help. I need some trouble shooting ideas.

    My 4310 runs just fine mechanically. I have no issues with it.

    Going back a few weeks or so ago, when I was snow blowing, my Curtis Cab roof work lights stopped working, and then a short time later my rear work light, and my roof mounted beacon emergency light also stopped working. I thought it must be a fuse, but changing to a new fuse did not resolve the issue.

    Now all of the wires from the above mentioned lights are connected to the Off/ON heater switch that operates my Curtis Cab Heater. Th lights and heater were installed by a John Deere technician. The heater works just fine. BUT NOW, when I toggle the roof work and rear lights, or toggle the beacon light they don't come on. I have a separate toggle switch for the roof & rear light (they come on together), and another toggle switch for the beacon light.

    I replaced both toggle switches. I replaced the Curtis Heater switch. I checked and re-crimped all the wire connections. I have power coming from the fuse box to the heater switch . . . the Curtis Heater turns on and off with no issues. The wire connectors from the lights are attached to the prongs on the back of the heater switch, as they were years ago. And the lights always worked just fine when connected in this manner.

    I find it hard to believe that my three work lights, and the beacon light just stopped working within just a short time of each other.

    Is there a way to test the lights without removing them from the tractor?

    Have I overlooked something when trouble shooting my lighting problem?

    Any suggestions on what else I can do to fix my lighting problem?

    Can you suggest a new set of working lights for my 4310?

    Thanks for reading this.

    FredSG
    Last edited by FredSG; 04-03-2019 at 06:07 PM.

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    Fred,

    Have you tried checking the grounds at these lights? I had replaced the headliner in my Curtis Cab last fall, and replaced the lights. I had a problem with the beacon, and realized that I had a poor ground. Once I figured it out, I was able to put the beacon back into service.

    I had installed a new fuse block, and ran dedicated ground wires to each lamp from the block. I have the older syle Curtis Cab, so I can't tell you how your cab is grounded.

    Dave
    1990 955
    Curtis Cab
    Model 59 2 stage snowblower
    72" mid mount mower
    Model 70A loader with Edge Tamers and Edge Extenders

    1990 420 repowered with V Twin Honda
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    FredSG's Avatar
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    Hi Town Manager,

    I checked the ground and they seem OK. I purchased the 4310 and the soft Curtis Cab at the same time back in 2003.

    Thanks for the reply,

    FredSG

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    You can test incandescent bulbs with an ohm meter. Pull the bulb and check for power and ground to it at the socket and test the bulb for continuity.
    John Deere 4310 tractor, New Holland 575E backhoe, John Deere F725 mower

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    FredSG's Avatar
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    This is the rear of the Curtis Switch. It works fine Right now, the spliced 18 gauge wire lights are connected to the L prong. Should all the prongs be "hot"? Maybe the spliced light wires should be connected to the B prong . . . just thinking out loud.



    FredSG

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    Unless I'm reading this all wrong, your "L" prong is just your LOW speed of the switch, and the "H" would be the HIGH speed. As you rotate your switch, you are taking power off the L and moving it to the H. So that alone would tell me your lights should only be working when you have one speed or the other. However, I am making an assuption as to the exact way that switch is working.

    As you mentioned your lights are now on separate toggle switches, there is no reason this switch you are showing should even be in the system. However, those other toggle switches do in fact need power so yes, if you were tapping into any of the wires on that switch, it would be off of your 'B' wire.

    The wire on 'B" is your power coming from your fuse box / battery and is either key hot, or always hot, depending on how it was wired. Thus, the wire coming to 'B' is where you want one part of it going to your rotary switch, and to each of your toggle switches.

    I truly suck at making pictures but I will attempt to make a diagram and post it here as to how I would wire your configuration. Gimme a few minutes and let me get some more coffee.

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Ok, remember, I said my drawing skills are not up to industry standards so please bear with my crude drawing.

    At the end of the day, the easiest way to check the wiring is at the back of the switches. A test light should have power on both ends of the toggle switch when you have the switches in the 'ON" position. Naturally they will only have power on one terminal when in the 'OFF' position. So my first plan of attack would be to check there.
    There is no reason to have the power for the toggles going through the heater switch, which is why you want to have your splices before they get to the rotary switch.

    If you have power coming out of the switches then its in the wiring between the switches to the light, or as already mentioned, your grounds.

    Also, before you go nuts, if there is power coming off the switches, then just take one of the work lights out and check to make sure the power is making its way to the actual bulbs. If it is, then the ground is bad.

    I hope any of this helps and if theres anything more I can add to this, by all means let me know.
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    FredSG's Avatar
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    Toughsox,

    Really appreciate your comments and what a "fine" drawing. Went out to the 4310 and tried again to figure it out.

    Maybe I've got it figured out . . . there are two red wires coming from the fuse box. One is "hot" the other is ?? dead ??. Using the "hot" wire and re-doing my crimps and connections I am able to get everything to work - the heater, the beacon light and the work lights. I got them to work SEPARATELY when connected to the "hot" wire. Can I hook the beacon and work lights to the "hot" wire going directly to the heater switch tab, letter B as shown on the back of the switch? Would I be over-loading the fuse, 20 amp?

    Any idea why the other red wire is "dead" coming from the fuse box? Originally, this "dead" red wire was attached somewhere, but I don't know where. Any thoughts?

    Thanks for your help and diagram . . .

    FredSG
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    The other red wire may not be battery hot. It may be switch hot, meaning it only comes on if you turn the key on.
    As for whether your fuse can handle the load, that would depend on how much the blower, the beacon and the work lights are taking. While I have no doubt the lights would overload the circuit, the blower by itself is usually the heavy hitter when it comes to power. Personally Id have the blower on its own circuit. 20 amps is low for a car/truck but I dont know how small or big the one in your cab is.

    But the fact that the entire system was installed by JD (if I read your original post correctly) then I would have to guess that 20 amps would be sufficient.

    If I had a doubt that the circuit was overloaded or borderline, I would install inline fuses BEFORE the other inline fuse, something like this.....
    and yes, another industry standard drawing.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    And by all means, please keep us informed how this is going for you.
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    Oh, forgot your other question.....where does the other red wire go? For that, Im sorry but I have no idea. If it is hot when the key comes on, my guess is that it was possibly meant for the lights. You mentioned you redid your connections so Im wondering, did that one wire come off to begin with? If so, then Id only wire the heater to one and the lights to the other, naturally making sure they had inline fuses to protect your tractor.

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