Fuse Tap and My 4310
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 19
Like Tree19Likes

Thread: Fuse Tap and My 4310

  1. Top | #1
    FredSG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Last Online
    Today @ 06:04 AM
    Location
    Northern Maine
    Posts
    124
    Thanks
    66
    Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts

    Fuse Tap and My 4310

    Hello,

    I was looking at my 4310 fuse box and I have several 30 amp fuse slots that are empty. Just wondering if I could use a fuse tap in one of those empty fuse slots to add another circuit line, maybe to add a 12 volt power outlet? I think I understand that the fuse slot I use would be one that is controlled (on/off) by the ignition turning on and off with a key.

    Any comments, or advice on this electrical option.

    FredSG
    Vietnam Combat Veteran '68-'69
    mark02tj, JD4044M and Toughsox like this.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. Top | #2

    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 11:12 PM
    Location
    North New Jersey
    Posts
    429
    Thanks
    198
    Thanked 170 Times in 83 Posts
    When you say empty. Do you mean there is a fuse in it and only one side is being utilized? Or its just an open hole and its marked '30 amps"?

    And, HOWDY FRED
    JD4044M likes this.

  4. Top | #3
    FredSG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Last Online
    Today @ 06:04 AM
    Location
    Northern Maine
    Posts
    124
    Thanks
    66
    Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts
    Hi Toughsox,

    I think you and Town Manager created a monster . . . the fuse slots are empty, nothing in them and marked 30 amps.

    FredSG
    Toughsox likes this.

  5. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. Top | #4

    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 11:12 PM
    Location
    North New Jersey
    Posts
    429
    Thanks
    198
    Thanked 170 Times in 83 Posts
    LOL...... my OCD is rubbing off on you.

    Ok, if there are no metal tabs in either hole for the fuse, then its dead. You would have to get the proper connectors that would slide into the back of the fuse box. Overall, not a hard job but at the same time, a much easier way would be to use a fuse tap.

    I did a quickie google search and this looks like it should be your fuse box. Please correct me if Im wrong.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	LK7zGU0.png 
Views:	84 
Size:	516.2 KB 
ID:	680438
    If so, you simply take one of the existing fuses out and slap this in its place - Click image for larger version. 

Name:	N9pUGYr.png 
Views:	89 
Size:	119.4 KB 
ID:	680442
    Then, your existing fuse goes into the 1 slot and your new fuse goes into the second slot. Then its just a matter of connecting that blue pigtail to whatever you want power to go to.

    So yep, your on the right track but you just cant use the empty slots you currently have if there are no metal tabs in either side of the fuse hole.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 295ynkT.png  
    Last edited by Toughsox; 04-08-2019 at 09:40 PM. Reason: fixed picture for correct tap needed

  7. Top | #5
    FredSG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Last Online
    Today @ 06:04 AM
    Location
    Northern Maine
    Posts
    124
    Thanks
    66
    Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts
    Gotcha, so if the fuse slot is marked "never used" then it's not a "working" (hot) fuse slot even if a fuse is inserted. How could you make them a "working" (hot) fuse slot? I seem to have too many of these fuse slots that are marked "never used".

    Thanks again, Toughsox

    FredSG

  8. Top | #6

    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 11:12 PM
    Location
    North New Jersey
    Posts
    429
    Thanks
    198
    Thanked 170 Times in 83 Posts
    Manufacturers often use parts such as this across many lines of vehicles. But they only put wiring where its needed based on that particular vehicle. Im sure somewhere there is a John Deere tractor with that exact fusebox but.....every single hole is being used by factory wiring.

    To make them work as a factory fuse, you would need to know exactly what type of terminal JD is using in that box. You are familiar with blue stak-on terminals such as this - Click image for larger version. 

Name:	oyIotcE.png 
Views:	80 
Size:	120.9 KB 
ID:	680444
    A fusebox has a variation of this terminal, without the plastic jacket like this - Click image for larger version. 

Name:	NgUGpap.png 
Views:	81 
Size:	18.9 KB 
ID:	680446
    The problem here is, the unshielding one will have a metal locking tab that sticks out, and there are literally dozens upon dozens of different types available. Thats why you would have to know exactly which one JD uses.
    Having said that, then you would have to find out where all the other fuses get their power, and tie one end into that, and the other end would then go to your new 12 volt outlet.

    If that picture I showed is close to what your fusebox looks like, Id imagine it would be a couple of hours to do that job. Using the fusetap would take literally 5 minutes.

    So, not saying using the factory fusebox isnt do-able, it just doesnt seem practical in my eyes.

    Another quickie way to tap into fuses (which is where I usually pick up power for hourmeters where I work) is to use a fuse piggy back tab, such as this - Click image for larger version. 

Name:	LJLtsCc.png 
Views:	81 
Size:	24.7 KB 
ID:	680450 You simply take an existing fuse out of its place, tuck this behind it and you have a place to add your new wire. Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1bd8Af2.png 
Views:	80 
Size:	36.2 KB 
ID:	680452

    The only problem I have found is......those little metal tabs I show in the last 2 pictures.....I havent seen those in stores in ages. And when I do, you have to buy 100 at a time.

    BUT WAIT, THERES MORE !!!!!! If you do happen to want to go the route of the metal tab, and you can wait a couple of days, shoot me your address. I do believe I have half a coffee container filled with them. Id have no problem sending you a few, which should keep you wiring stuff up for the next few years.
    mark02tj and FredSG like this.

  9. Top | #7

    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 04:37 PM
    Location
    N. FL
    Posts
    187
    Thanks
    4
    Thanked 30 Times in 26 Posts
    The only two I found that were live and not in use were hot all the time, not switched. I used the trailer option slot with a fuse tap because it didn't have a relay over it. I used a blade tap in the top right unused fuse slot and added an inline fuse. It had a relay over it so the fuse tap like you stick a fuse in the top of wouldn't fit. The never used slots in the bottom were not live on mine.

    Make sure you don't stick a fuse in slot #12.
    Toughsox and FredSG like this.
    John Deere 4310 tractor, New Holland 575E backhoe, John Deere F725 mower

  10. Top | #8
    FredSG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Last Online
    Today @ 06:04 AM
    Location
    Northern Maine
    Posts
    124
    Thanks
    66
    Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts
    Hi Old Machinist,

    Are there any other fuses controlled by the switch key that you could tap onto to use the fuse tap method . . . I want to add a 12 volt power adapter/USB connector? Or if the fuse is a "continuous on" fuse is there a way to wire in an on/off switch so the power adapter doesn't drain the battery when the tractor is not running?

    FredSG
    Toughsox likes this.

  11. Top | #9
    FredSG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Last Online
    Today @ 06:04 AM
    Location
    Northern Maine
    Posts
    124
    Thanks
    66
    Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts
    Old Machinist,

    Would you know what this single wire is for? Comes out of the rear of the fuse panel . . . is it some kind of diagnostic testing wire? Any idea?



    This is the view of my fuse panel and fuse & relay information. Looking for the best place to use a fuse tap.





    FredSG

  12. Top | #10

    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Last Online
    Yesterday @ 11:12 PM
    Location
    North New Jersey
    Posts
    429
    Thanks
    198
    Thanked 170 Times in 83 Posts
    Fred. Thanks for posting the picture of your actual fuse box. From what it appears, you do have a tab in the right side of F2 and F4.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	LGD031B.png 
Views:	59 
Size:	393.8 KB 
ID:	680564
    Have you checked them to see if they have power when the tractor is running?

    As for that loose wire, what does the end of it look like? That looks to be like a bullet connector, and the other end would have this type of connector Click image for larger version. 

Name:	K7r8ago.png 
Views:	59 
Size:	22.5 KB 
ID:	680560 From the looks of it, it is a simple quick disconnect connector.....but alas, what DOES it go to.
    I'd be curious if that has power as well, but Im sure @Old Machinist can tell you for sure what it goes to.
    FredSG likes this.

  13. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. 2720 switched power, where to tap in?
    By klunker in forum Medium Frame Compact Utility Tractors (MCUT)
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 09-20-2018, 10:43 PM
  2. 3038e - Driveline/Driveshaft coupler- drill and tap for grease zerk?
    By placer in forum Large Frame Compact Utility Tractors (LCUT)
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 05-30-2018, 04:30 PM
  3. Fuse Tap piggy back?
    By Titleist1 in forum Off Topic
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 11-25-2017, 10:08 PM
  4. 10 amp connection, where to tap?
    By dodgetimes2 in forum Sub Compact Utility Tractors (SCUT)
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 06-18-2015, 09:21 AM
  5. Tap a talk blank thread?
    By Sawdust in forum Forum Help & Suggestions
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 07-19-2013, 10:00 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •