This is what I came up with to get loader up/down control to the backhoe station on a 4066R cabbed version.
Really think Deere should offer a kit for cabbed tractors to do this so it is easy to put the bucket up and down as a front stabalizer
which also puts the stress on the subframe (where it should be) instead of on the front of the tractor.
Heck Ma Deere could probably get with $900 to a grand for a kit.
Ain't no fun climbing off the backhoe station (especially for old coots with bad knees) and into the cab just to put the bucket up
or down at every digging operation, especially when cleaning out or digging a ditch and using the dipper stick to propel forward.
Building it takes surprisingly few parts, no big deal.
Tools needed: Torch, welding machine, drill press, 4 1/2" angle grinder, tap set, files for putting the finishing "smooth" on built parts, jigsaw
with metal cutting blade and hacksaw.
Total of *BIG* cost items around $157, $110 for control handle (Marpac 7-0114) and $47 for control cable (Seastar *xtreme* CCX63308 - 8 feet length).
The Seastar control cable (formally Teleflex brand name) comes in 3 grades, the *Xtreme* is the best and well worth it for its' smoothness.
Know I could have gotten the control handle and cable cheaper online, but this was what the marine/boat dealer had on hand in town and
I wanted to get started.
The rest of the parts were nuts,bolts, washers, lock washers, 3/16" snap lock pins and just gereral hardware, maybe $20 worth.
A round 5/8" shaft used for as cable support arm and assorted pieces of 1/4" and 1/8" plate for control cable anchoring.
Works great, in cab cable connection to the Deere loader control takes 2 seconds to connect and disconnect (snap lock pins), no tools needed as designed.
The cable support arm even comes off by undoing 2 wing bolts, no tools needed.
The support arm bolts to a *Z* bracket I built which is held in place with a 1/4" bolt and nut.
This stays on tractor and doesn't interfere with anything
Used a pipe hanger clamp adapter (from Lowes) with 3/8" threads to attach to Deere loader control handle's shaft, used a cut 3/8" bolt
to connect cable end to pipe hanger.
The pipe hanger adapter stays on Deere loader control handle's shaft and doesn't interfere with anything.
Care was taken (bending to proper shape) that it aligns with the Deere loader control arm and also that it doesn't
interfere with the seat arm or switches on the console. (getting the *S* bend just right was the hardest part, had to heat it with the torch
several times to get it perfect.
The rear console hold down was a metric screw (around 3/16" diameter) which I found stripped out where
it went to the metal fender support.
Drilled it out to 1/4", used 1/4" bolt, nut, washer, lock washer to secure it now.
The cable is very responsive, with basically no lag between handle movement and output movement, smooth as silk, flexable, heavy duty .
Utilized Deere built in access hole behind seat for cable routing out of cab.
It was sealed with a rubber grommet that I replaced with a plate and hold down knobs, added an electrical box rubber compression fitting
to hold the cable secure.
The control handle on the backhoe end comes off by unscrewing 4 u-bolts.
The bracket for it was built from a piece of 1/4" plate welded to a piece of 3/8" plate, 3/8 plate used for u-bolts.
The cover box is an old, unused, plastic electrical connection box I had in my shop for years, fits great and prevents dirt, mud and crud from getting on the hoe end of the control cable.
Any*who*, this is how I done it, a little high end *Redneck engineering*, didn't even use any duct tape anywhere.