4044 M/R drawbar size
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Thread: 4044 M/R drawbar size

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    4044 M/R drawbar size

    I am not near my tractor, nor will i see it for 2 months

    I tried the Parts websites and it *seems* the 4M/R share a drawbar but the 52 and 66 may use a different one as the part number only listed 4M/R....

    Anyway, I need the size of the large hole in the end - I want to get a shackle for it and want to know what size pin I can use - if you have the thickness that would be awesome as well

    Has anyone tried one of the twisted shackle mounts? Never seen one before i was googling trying to get this dimension - they look pretty cool - do they work?

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    ddinham's Avatar
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    It is bigger than 1 inch. Just get a 1 inch pin and be done with it.

    Dave
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    I have used a twisted shackle for 30 years,, but, only with under 20 HP tractors,,
    That twisted shackle looks wimpy,,, to me,,

    I got a new truck, the receiver was a different size,, so I purchased some new hitches,, and a shackle,,

    I think this shackle could easily lift a 3/4 ton truck,,,

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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    Some of the tractors include JD 4105, JD 855, JD 650,,,, and,,, the IH 584 4WD
    My favorite attachment is the homemade landplane,,, EVERYONE needs one of those!!

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    My 4066R has a drawbar that is 1-1/2” thick and the hole is 1-5/16” diameter. I think the 4044 and 4052 drawbars are identical to the 4066.
    4066R open station

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    Quote Originally Posted by ddinham View Post
    It is bigger than 1 inch. Just get a 1 inch pin and be done with it.

    Dave
    If the hole in the drawbar is 1 5/16, I'd get a 1 .25" pin to have closer tolerance and lessen the chance of "wobbling/warbling" the hole
    Old Cajun likes this.
    Chris


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    ddinham's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spectre View Post
    If the hole in the drawbar is 1 5/16, I'd get a 1 .25" pin to have closer tolerance and lessen the chance of "wobbling/warbling" the hole

    The problem with getting too big of a pin, is that you lose the capability of being able to twist the attachment separate from the tractor, unless the attachment has a much bigger hole in the tongue. One of them needs a bigger hole to allow rotational twisting.


    Dave
    Old Cajun and Ortimber like this.
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    48" pallet forks, KK 3pt Boom Pole, Northern Tool 3pt middle buster, 2 bottom Dearborn plow
    County Line post hole digger, Rhino 3pt 10ft brush hog, Land Pride 8ft rock rake
    Fit Rite Hydraulics 3pt Top Link, front 3pt adapter for SSQA, 7 1/2 ft Field Roller, 8ft Dearborn tandem disk

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    Spectre's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ddinham View Post
    The problem with getting too big of a pin, is that you lose the capability of being able to twist the attachment separate from the tractor, unless the attachment has a much bigger hole in the tongue. One of them needs a bigger hole to allow rotational twisting.


    Dave
    Most big implements I used to pull quite a few years back always had large line up tongues for drawbar pulling, hence when operating them they bang forward and aft against the pin. So having a loose pin is not good IMHO.
    Chris


    2019 4052R/Cab, iMatch QH, 440R Loader w/BW16358 Bucket(Got Loops) , Frontier RB5072 Blade, Frontier LP1184 Land Plane, Front moveable fenders, Rear fender extensions, Dual Exterior mirrors,Ballast Box BW15073, Dual rear work lights(LVB24853), JD Hammerstrap, R2 4" Edge Tamers, (coming soon: Weather radar,FLIR,HUD, Chocolate bar & "Manpon" dispensers)

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    ddinham's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spectre View Post
    Most big implements I used to pull quite a few years back always had large line up tongues for drawbar pulling, hence when operating them they bang forward and aft against the pin. So having a loose pin is not good IMHO.

    I fully understand that, but usually they are pulling against the slack. You still need to allow for the rotational forces.

    Dave
    JD 4066R CAB
    JD H180 FEL with SSQA brackets, JD iMatch, JD Ballast Box & ext, JD pull behind seed spreader
    Frontier RB2196H 8 ft rear blade/hyd angle, Frontier BB1065 Box Blade, Befco 3pt 110 inch RFM
    48" pallet forks, KK 3pt Boom Pole, Northern Tool 3pt middle buster, 2 bottom Dearborn plow
    County Line post hole digger, Rhino 3pt 10ft brush hog, Land Pride 8ft rock rake
    Fit Rite Hydraulics 3pt Top Link, front 3pt adapter for SSQA, 7 1/2 ft Field Roller, 8ft Dearborn tandem disk

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    xZH
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    Quote Originally Posted by CADplans View Post
    I have used a twisted shackle for 30 years,, but, only with under 20 HP tractors,,
    That twisted shackle looks wimpy,,, to me,,
    I purchased this twisted shackle (7/8" version) for my 3046R. It looks suspiciously similar to the JD PM18290 twisted shackle. It's heavy and definitely plenty strong. While not a big deal, it is nice being able to just drop a chain straight down through the shackle opening.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Quote Originally Posted by xZH View Post
    I purchased this twisted shackle (7/8" version) for my 3046R. It looks suspiciously similar to the JD PM18290 twisted shackle. It's heavy and definitely plenty strong. While not a big deal, it is nice being able to just drop a chain straight down through the shackle opening.
    That is the exact one I was looking at, just the 1" version, the JD version is $75 and the Koch version $21 - both rated at 25K

    I am not sure but 25,000# WLL might be overkill for the guy using the 20HP tractor and if I ever tested that type of load on my 4 series i would probably destroy a TON of tractor parts long before that clevis

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