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Thread: 4310 ehydro will not move

  1. Top | #11

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    The only way the light will be on all the time, that I can find is that the tractor is in calibration mode. This involves placing a 10a fuse in the f12 holder in the fuse box. When you do that it cleans out the memory of the controller and you have to follow a procedure for the controller to relearn the values from the potentiometers and relearn the voltages for the hydraulics. There is a long list of the values for the potentiometers and they have to be exactly on to go to the next step. You will need a Digital Volt Ohm Meter(dvom). Most of the specs are .4-.6v on the top of travel(tot) and 4.2-4.5v at Bottom of travel(BOT). I did the F12 fuse to mine and it was a PIA to get it recalibrated. The good news is it can be done at home. Most dealers have 0 experience or desire to help, from my experience.

    If you have taken some of the values already you can handle it. All the potentiometers are is a variable resistor. By reading the output of the potentiometers, the controller then knows what you are asking the tractor to do.
    Last edited by MFreund1; 04-11-2015 at 09:59 PM.
    Matt

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  3. Top | #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by MFreund1 View Post
    The only way the light will be on all the time, that I can find is that the tractor is in calibration mode. This involves placing a 10a fuse in the f12 holder in the fuse box. When you do that it cleans out the memory of the controller and you have to follow a procedure for the controller to relearn the values from the potentiometers and relearn the voltages for the hydraulics. There is a long list of the values for the potentiometers and they have to be exactly on to go to the next step. You will need a Digital Volt Ohm Meter(dvom). Most of the specs are .4-.6v on the top of travel(tot) and 4.2-4.5v at Bottom of travel(BOT). I did the F12 fuse to mine and it was a PIA to get it recalibrated. The good news is it can be done at home. Most dealers have 0 experience or desire to help, from my experience.

    If you have taken some of the values already you can handle it. All the potentiometers are is a variable resistor. By reading the output of the potentiometers, the controller then knows what you are asking the tractor to do.
    After consulting the manual and figuring out the layout of the fuse panel, I did discover that there IS (was) a fuse in F12. I removed it and the light went out, but still no codes. I disconnected the battery in a vain attempt to reboot and the light remains off at this time. Of course, the tractor is still stationary as well.
    After looking at the fuse application chart, it shows fuse F9 as being for "diagnostic." So I put the fuse in the F9 slot. This slot has both terminals installed to plug the fuse into but the light still did not come back on or flash codes. I left the tractor in this condition until another opportunity arises to work on it some more. There is a calibration procedure posted here somewhere that I skimmed through and noticed that the procedure involved removing a fuse from one position and putting it in another. If I remember correctly it said to put F9 in the F10 slot. As you may be able to see from the pics, there was a fuse in the F10 and the F12 slots, but nothing in F9 or F11.Click image for larger version. 

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  4. Top | #13

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    Just so you know (and before you put a gun to your head)....my dealer had to put my 4310 in calibration mode a couple years ago.
    The mechanic who was working on it (one of their best) said that it took him 6 hours to figure it out.
    MFreund1 and mtrmn like this.

  5. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to 4310 For This Useful Post:

    MFreund1 (04-13-2015), mtrmn (04-13-2015)

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    Quote Originally Posted by 4310 View Post
    Just so you know (and before you put a gun to your head)....my dealer had to put my 4310 in calibration mode a couple years ago.
    The mechanic who was working on it (one of their best) said that it took him 6 hours to figure it out.

    From what little info I have found, this is not a job for the faint of heart nor for anyone who has little/no knowledge of electronics. The models with the LCD readout sound like they are worlds ahead of this model that has dropped into my lap. I have determined so far that Mfreund1 was right--when the tractor came to me it was already in calibration mode. I have some information headed my way which should clear things up a bit, but as of now I'm just awaiting its arrival. I have realized that this thing is far more complicated than initially thought and my continuous tampering with it is useless until I get more education on how it's supposed to work.
    I worked in auto dealerships etc for years and I think I have enough experience/tools to work on it, but if it took a JD tech 6 hrs it'll probably take me 6 weeks.......

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    When someone put the fuse in the f12 slot it cleared all the data in the controller. You need to follow the procedure to allow the controller to relearn what it need to make the tractor work again.

    When I did mine it took me at least twice that time. What caused me trouble is in the beginning of the procedure it says to put range selector in N and release the brakes. I never put the park brake on and it would not start the calibration until ALL the steps are followed IN ORDER.
    Matt

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  9. Top | #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by mtrmn View Post
    From what little info I have found, this is not a job for the faint of heart nor for anyone who has little/no knowledge of electronics. The models with the LCD readout sound like they are worlds ahead of this model that has dropped into my lap. I have determined so far that Mfreund1 was right--when the tractor came to me it was already in calibration mode. I have some information headed my way which should clear things up a bit, but as of now I'm just awaiting its arrival. I have realized that this thing is far more complicated than initially thought and my continuous tampering with it is useless until I get more education on how it's supposed to work.
    I worked in auto dealerships etc for years and I think I have enough experience/tools to work on it, but if it took a JD tech 6 hrs it'll probably take me 6 weeks.......

    What I used a jumper kit from Matco to back probe at the potentiometers. I slid a fine wire down the wire in to the connector to read the values in real time. The potentiometer are easy to figure out, one end is 5v reference, other end is ground and output is the middle wire. You will do the calibration sequence until you find a potentiometer out of spec. You will stop the procedure and adjust the potentiometer. Then you will start procedure again. From the beginning. You will do that until all are in spec and read by the controller. Then you are done. Easy as pie! Lol
    Last edited by MFreund1; 04-13-2015 at 09:44 PM.
    Matt

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    Quote Originally Posted by MFreund1 View Post
    When someone put the fuse in the f12 slot it cleared all the data in the controller. You need to follow the procedure to allow the controller to relearn what it need to make the tractor work again.

    When I did mine it took me at least twice that time. What caused me trouble is in the beginning of the procedure it says to put range selector in N and release the brakes. I never put the park brake on and it would not start the calibration until ALL the steps are followed IN ORDER.
    So you are saying that I have to make sure I have the parking brake already applied when I put the range selector in N, then release the brakes. Am I interpreting your meaning correctly?
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  11. Top | #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by MFreund1 View Post
    What I used a jumper kit from Matco to back probe at the potentiometers. I slid a fine wire down the wire in to the connector to read the values in real time. The potentiometer are easy to figure out, one end is 5v reference, other end is ground and output is the middle wire. You will do the calibration sequence until you find a potentiometer out of spec. You will stop the procedure and adjust the potentiometer. Then you will start procedure again. You will do that until all are in spec and read by the controller. Then you are done. Easy as pie! Lol


    If it is possible to detect a sarcastic tone in a typed sentence, then something tells me it would be detected here...
    MFreund1 likes this.

  12. Top | #19
    Old Pa-pa Old Cajun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MFreund1 View Post
    When someone put the fuse in the f12 slot it cleared all the data in the controller. You need to follow the procedure to allow the controller to relearn what it need to make the tractor work again.

    When I did mine it took me at least twice that time. What caused me trouble is in the beginning of the procedure it says to put range selector in N and release the brakes. I never put the park brake on and it would not start the calibration until ALL the steps are followed IN ORDER.
    Sounds like you guys are reprograming an EPROM or EPROMS after the "f12 install" complete erasure procedure.
    Can't miss a step reprograming those, very exacting.

    Remember that from the "old days", hope Deere has progressed beyond that now days where you
    can just download an onboard controller/computer update by hooking up to a laptop via USB or
    even by Bluetooth.

    Just for my info, how old is the tractor?

    -Cajun-
    Neil

    2019 4066R with cab (aka Cooterpiller), 2014 997 Z Trak
    Other equip: 1982 IH 274 diesel, 1957 Farmall Cub, Woods Billy Goat 5 foot rotary cutter, Ford three point hitch 6 foot dozer blade,
    home brew dirt and gravel grader, dirt scoop, choppers, Woods six foot belly mount sickle bar, home brew 3PH 25 gallon sprayer, 1992 33 inch cut Snapper
    rear engine rider, 1984 30 inch cut Snapper rear engine rider.

  13. Top | #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Cajun View Post
    Sounds like you guys are reprograming an EPROM or EPROMS after the "f12 install" complete erasure procedure.
    Can't miss a step reprograming those, very exacting.

    Remember that from the "old days", hope Deere has progressed beyond that now days where you
    can just download an onboard controller/computer update by hooking up to a laptop via USB or
    even by Bluetooth.

    Just for my info, how old is the tractor?

    -Cajun-
    Sounds like you are experienced in this as well. Ex JD tech? I really have no idea what year model the tractor is, but the serial number was posted in a photo a few posts back. My guess would be late 80's early 90's???? I am in the Jena, La area--where are you?

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