Wanting to add hydraulic top link to 4200 HST
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Thread: Wanting to add hydraulic top link to 4200 HST

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    ctuinstra's Avatar
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    Wanting to add hydraulic top link to 4200 HST

    I have a 4200 HST that has the optional rear hydraulics that is operated by the lever on the fender that uses the third spool of the 3-spool unit. Is this an open neutral system, I figured it was closed, but I'm not sure? Do I need to have a double lock valve on the hydraulic top link or can I use a less expensive top link without the lock valve?

    Is there anything else to be concerned about other than the open and closed stroke of the top link?

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    Captain Hook Kennyd's Avatar
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    Your tractor has a OC (Open Center) hydraulic system, but that does not matter since you already have the valve. Whether or not a DPOCV (Double Pilot Operated Check Valve) is "needed" a tough question that I will not answer for you-there are good arguments on both sides of that debate. Brian at Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com can make you a custom setup without the valves, or the Surplus Center sells them with...


    I PM'ed Brian to let him know about your thread...
    Kenny

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    ctuinstra's Avatar
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    So the spool valve itself will "hold" the cyclinder for the most part. And the check valves will "lock" the cyclinder from creeping and incase a hose should break, etc.? I've been reading a lot on this site and I think I'm getting the hang of it now. I think I may just stick with the check valves because of the creep issue. I don't change the top link length often, mostly when changing implements and I don't change them everyday. But I am sick of the hard-to-turn manual top link with all the dirt lodged in the threads.

    Thanks for the info.

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    Fran_K's Avatar
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    Binding would be my first concern. Generally there is only so much room at either end. Often I see there is kind of a stand off between the cylinder and the hemi/ball joint with the pin hole. I have one I might order but really would like to find a 2 1/2 inch diameter one. The pull will only have pressure on the bore area minus the rod area.

    Unlike most on internet forums I would only use it occasionally and when on it would most likely be operated a lot. The standard threaded top links work quite well if they maintained. IF it doesn't turn easily take it apart and clean it with wire brush and solvent both internal and external thread. The tractor supply kind with the bar to turn in the middle I use a bolt and nut which I turn with a big adjustable wrench I generally carry and use on the draft link sideways turnbuckle things.

    Surely there is more risk of squish injury with a heavier top link which won't latch in the up position like the original.

    Fran

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    Fit Rite Hydraulics MtnViewRanch's Avatar
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    Thanks Kenny for the heads up.

    ctuinstra, one of the things to be concerned with is your top link retainer. Either you need to get a top link that has the hydraulic ports on the side which is what I recommend for you, or remove the retainer, or run the std type type links that everyone else sells with the ports turned down and I believe that that proposes another set of clearance problems in itself. For your circumstances either type of top link, plain or one with the check valves should work fine for you. I personally don't feel that the check valves are needed, but many people argue that they are a must.

    Best way to get the right length for your uses is to get what I call the true mid stroke length. That is the pin-pin measurement when attached to an implement with the implement flat on the ground, level front to back and side to side. Then get a top link that is closest to that measurement when it is at its' mid stroke and you will be all set. If need be I can build one that matches your needs. I build them all anyway, no big deal to build what you need.

    Good luck with your decisions.

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    Fit Rite Hydraulics MtnViewRanch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fran...k. View Post
    Binding would be my first concern. Generally there is only so much room at either end. Often I see there is kind of a stand off between the cylinder and the hemi/ball joint with the pin hole. I have one I might order but really would like to find a 2 1/2 inch diameter one. The pull will only have pressure on the bore area minus the rod area.

    Unlike most on internet forums I would only use it occasionally and when on it would most likely be operated a lot. The standard threaded top links work quite well if they maintained. IF it doesn't turn easily take it apart and clean it with wire brush and solvent both internal and external thread. The tractor supply kind with the bar to turn in the middle I use a bolt and nut which I turn with a big adjustable wrench I generally carry and use on the draft link sideways turnbuckle things.

    Surely there is more risk of squish injury with a heavier top link which won't latch in the up position like the original.

    Fran
    No problem with the 2 1/2" dia cylinder and no problem building a link that can make use of all the pin locations if that is what is needed. What size tractor do you have?

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    Fran_K's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MtnViewRanch View Post
    No problem with the 2 1/2" dia cylinder and no problem building a link that can make use of all the pin locations if that is what is needed. What size tractor do you have?

    I found your website. I only found one customer pictures in the new section.
    At this time all my tractors with three point hitches are pretty close in size, 5000 pounds or so with a one inch diameter hole for the top link. I have one with a front three point and an extra hydraulic line. I will send a private message as they are not compact or related to this thread title.

    fran
    Last edited by Fran_K; 12-28-2012 at 11:34 PM.

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    Fit Rite Hydraulics MtnViewRanch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fran...k. View Post
    I found your website. I only found one customer pictures in the new section.
    At this time all my tractors with three point hitches are pretty close in size, 5000 pounds or so with a one inch diameter hole for the top link. Let's discuss a Deere 5410 with the smallest Buckeye front hitch can't recall his model #. I figured it could be mounted either way, rod or cylinder toward tractor depending on whether the implement or the tractor had more metal in the way. I think 20 inches closed was a bit longer than ideal for what I have in mind, think forks and dumping.
    Normally on any tractor above 60hp I use 3" dia cylinders, but that is for the rear 3pt hitch hydraulics. You say that you want to dump, but if you go shorter which is easily done, just not listed, isn't that going to make it so that you will not be able to dump as far. Tell me what you want and need and I will tell you what I can do to get what you want.

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    Fran_K's Avatar
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    I edited to stay out of the compact section and go private but wasn't fast enough.

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    mjncad's Avatar
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    Welcome to the OP, and I have the same tractor as you do. Here is my hydraulic top-link set up.


    https://picasaweb.google.com/1101061...91002/TopNTilt#
    I have more ideas than ambition.


  13. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to mjncad For This Useful Post:

    ctuinstra(12-29-2012), Imaybail(08-24-2016)

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