I need some specifics for a successful engine swap? Intek to Kohler
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    I need some specifics for a successful engine swap? Intek to Kohler

    Newb here,
    Great site !

    Beware - You may wanna knock back a few before embarking on this endeavor :D



    Ok , so I picked up a 2005 (Non Deere ) L111 hydro 42 today for a $100. It's not running, full bagger, really decent condition where it matters . Definitely worth fixing. Seeing that these models are pretty much Craftsman,.I feel somewhat confident tinkering with it.

    Existing engine(Briggs)
    I honestly don't even want to tinker with the briggs 20 hp.


    However I do have , a Kohler cv730 25 pro v ...from a craftsman gt5000. The Kohler runs sweet. ELE PTO operates perfectly.

    So after confusing myself with way too many facts, I'm just going to ask straight forward.

    Kohler 25 hp cv730 is going to replace original Intek 20 hp.

    Kohler has electronic PTO.
    Briggs is manual PTO * dash lever?

    Do I ,

    just get a manual pulley set up for a kohler shaft ?

    or ,

    Do I get a electronic JD PTO toggle to run whats on the Kohler ele pto?

    Or,

    Do I run the Kohler with the ELE PTO unplugged....if that even works like that?

    From what Ive read Kohler shaft is longer and 1/8 thicker than briggs? Does the length matter in this application?

    Id be ok with the manual engagement, do I just get a new manual pulley for the Kohler? Seeing that the briggs isn't interchangeablewith Kohler


    Ridiculous questions,...but I don't want to confuse myself more than I already am.

    Ps, The less expensive way is better.

    Any info is greatly appreciated

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    xcopterdoc's Avatar
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    First off.. The L111 is a Deere mower. Made by Deere.
    The shaft length is going to be a problem regarding belt alignment.
    What's wrong with the Briggs engine?
    Seems like a lot of work and expense for what you'll end up with.

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
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    Quote Originally Posted by xcopterdoc View Post
    First off.. The L111 is a Deere mower. Made by Deere.
    The shaft length is going to be a problem regarding belt alignment.
    What's wrong with the Briggs engine?
    Seems like a lot of work and expense for what you'll end up with.

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk




    I had the Kohler Command 25 pro on hand, and it runs well. I thought that I could just drop it in and wire it . I now realize how ridiculous the shaft and pulley nonsense is for every application.
    Last edited by zxhollywood; 04-24-2017 at 06:29 AM.
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    xcopterdoc's Avatar
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    I haven't done the swap as I am only a lowly JD tech. I am sure someone has.. Keep searching

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk

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    So I tried to start Intek today

    Popping out the carb badly,......didnt seem like the timing/broken key, so I took the valve covers off.

    Left side looked and cycled normally, a little sloppy .

    Right side was missing the exhaust pushrod (steel )
    aluminum one was bent in place.

    Pulled the heads- head gaskets looked fine-no visible breaches.
    Pistons looked fine -carbon was even-both sides.
    Valves looked good, although the right exhaust was stuck closed,....but it freed up easily enough.

    Pistons cycled properly, and sounded quiet /normal.

    Unfortunately now I have to pull the engine, and remove the pulley and sump cover to retrieve the pust rod ;( Hopefully it didnt destroy the crankcase mechanicals , but of course it had to be the steel rod??

    Looks like I will need to reset the valve guides, and punch edges, hopefully they willl stay.

    Once I inspect the crankcase , that will dictate ordering 4 new pushrods & complete gasket set.

    Partslist:

    Complete oem gasket set $ 55
    2 steel rods $ 13
    2 aluminum rods $ 13

    Evidently , youtube is full of the EXACT same scenario. Mouse nest over the right side-= smoked pushrods ?

    Whats funny about these motors, is that the repairs are fairly easy ,and quick......, even for a novice. However getting all the ridiculous covers and shrouds off consumes most of the time

    Do these inteks lift right up and out?

    Or do I need to remove the pulley off the shaft in order to lift out?

    thanks guys
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    xcopterdoc's Avatar
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    Remove the crank pulley, undo the usual stuff and lift er out.

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
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    Quote Originally Posted by xcopterdoc View Post
    First off.. The L111 is a Deere mower. Made by Deere.
    The shaft length is going to be a problem regarding belt alignment.
    What's wrong with the Briggs engine?
    Seems like a lot of work and expense for what you'll end up with.

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk

    Back in 2005 my local dealer (not a BBS) had a brand new L111 sitting on the showroom floor. Ended up buying a limited edition/availability L108 (according to the owner) that just came in. The L108 wasn't even in the regular catalog. He printed me out the specks from the JD website. Only difference was a single cylinder vs a V-twin and $200 less. Also no cruise control.

    After 9 years of way more use and abuse than JD ever intended. I thought that I finally had killed it. Turns out it was just a blown head gasket.
    Last edited by H-D dealer dude; 04-25-2017 at 07:42 PM.
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    Alrighty ,

    The saga continues.


    Removed the pulley,...came right off.
    I removed engine. Funny how the hole in the frame is about 1/2 " smaller than the drive/deck pulley.

    I inspected the sump area,......found the pushrod

    Everything looked great actually, no damage, everything operated normally, no cracks, oil pump all good., and very clean to begin with.
    Cleaned the gasket area , and got both halves ready for gaskets, and pushrods, camshaft lopes are perfect...like new

    Ill order 4 rods and full gasket set , and in the meantime ....I ll reset the valve guides .

    I hope this goes well, seems straight fwd. Id hate to drop $ 85 on parts for something Ive overlooked

    Its nice to know that all the gaskets -seals and torque tolerances will be set correctly...by me. Peace of mind is nice when youre waiting for the ticking timebomb to state otherwise.
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    xcopterdoc's Avatar
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    Good deal.

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    While, the engine is apart, I decided to clean the shellac from the fuel tank,...and whatever those chunks were. Needless to say , the tank is spotless, and doesnt leak
    But you have to remove the entire dash console-steering pinion gear- and the entire body, just to get the fuel tank out. Who knew? I also took the blades off too, theres an hour of my life that I won't ever get back . I seriously dont think they were ever taken off to be sharpened ? A big shout out to map gas and pb blaster , and a BF adjustable wrench. I powerwasheed the snot out of this thing. Stood her up on her tail like a Snapper to get the underside :o
    I really need a big compressor and impact tools.

    For a used $ 100 beater, other than some flakey paint.........the unit is very clean mechanically, and cosmetically under the body. Even the rolling chassis looks new.
    Though I think i need to put a through bolt for the steering magiggy. Maybe some washers so I can still keep it floating,..but snug. I may even drain and refill the transaxle while Im at it this weekend? At least I can work on it now without getting dirty :P

    Buying a non running mower is tricky, even though the motor was bad, the rest still looked decent. hopefully when the motors reinstalled ,...it operates as a unit.

    PS, Theres a lot of un neccessary nonsense on these mowers , purposely done just to pump up the service work hours/labor . If I had to have a shop go through this unit , Id be broke. I dont know how you guys have the dealers diagnose /repair the real JD tractors and farm equip.

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