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    JD X495 considering putchase

    I am seeking advice. I am not a mechanic and have never owner or operated a diesel anything. I am contemplating purchase of a 514 hour 2002 X495 but it is 4.5 hour trip one way. Asking price is $3750. Hood is missing the middle piece on the bottom and the mid mount pto shaft, the round collar at the end of the shaft has 3 ball bearings that sit in the groove of the pto shaft and keep it attached. When u pull back on the collar the ball bearings are supposed to release and free the driveshaft. One of them is stuck and won't let the driveshaft free. I assume these will not be to expensive to fix. My main concern is what do I look for? I have read about radiator screens plugged and overheating and the deck pto not engaging. Not sure yet if the dash all functions. Not knowing much about the tractor or diesel's, etc I really would appreciate any and all advice. Feel free to pm and I will share pics,ad and correspondence. Thanks, Paul

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    Chuckv's Avatar
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    I really liked my 2004 X495 and it had over 2500 hours on it when I sold the large property we used to have. I bought the tractor used from a local cemetery and it had a lot of hours already. The 24 HP Yanmar diesel is really robust and never gave me any trouble, always started easily and was smooth and powerful.

    The shaft to the mowing deck is a bit tricky to release, but the one issue you describe should be an easy fix/adjustment/lube. Does the tractor have the 62 inch deck or a smaller one? What other attachments does it have.

    Mine had the 3-pt hitch, but with the high hours I was able to buy it for only $1800 (what the dealer was going to give as a trade-in) If I still had the large property, I would still have this tractor...it is a good unit. Here are some pictures of mine:

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    Chuck
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    TJR345's Avatar
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    There a good powerful tractor.The collar on the pto deck they have a replacement kit.I tried cleaning and lubing and one time I couldn't get it off.I have to use an air hammer to get it off.The kit was worth every penny.
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    Tom

    2019 X590 with power mulch control and PF bagger
    30" mechanical tiller
    02 X595 with 62" deck,front thatcher and powerflow PTO kit
    3pt hitch with Heavy Hitch 45 JD loader
    12 JD suitcase weights
    JD/Brinly 3pt plow
    Frontier SS1036 3pt pto spreader
    (2) JS63C walk behind mowers
    TS 105 JD weed wacker
    tow behind 15 gal. sprayer
    Turftime 60" lawn roller
    Turftime 54" 3pt core aerator

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    JD285, not trying to steal your thunder here but I felt silly starting another thread asking for advice on a X495 within 24hrs of your post.

    I'm starting my own hunt for my first GT. Little over a 1/4 acre of property with a slightly wet backyard due to improper run off, however it is fairly smooth. The tree roots on the surface will be removed in the next few weeks. Front yard has a 15deg slope towards the curb but flattens 4-5' before the curb. Driveway is being handled with an Ariens EFI 28 Platinum so I won't be purchasing a front mount blower. We will be listing this house for sale spring of 2018 and moving to one with 2-5 acres. I don't need to bag but prefer to so my dogs don't track all the grass inside the house. Since the back lawn often has wet spots and my intention to haul dirt, mulch and some sod to the backyard I figured a diff is a smart move. My pickup cannot easily access by backyard at all so the cart would be very beneficial. I cannot justify a 1026R. I'd rather have a GT and then add a 2 family when I get my next property.

    I found a used 2004 X495 with 1625 hours fairly local for $4,000 and the triple powerflow bagger and 10cu cart is $500.

    https://worcester.craigslist.org/grd/6134606170.html


    I have been researching the X390 54" with powerflow as well as the X590 54" with powerflow from local dealers. I understand these are a tier or two below the X495 which is essentially a X740 today.

    X390 54" bare $5699
    X590 54" bare $7399

    X390 w/ 7bu powerflow $8570
    X590 w/ 14bu powerflow $9120

    I would likely be financing for the 48 months at 0% and hit with 6.35% tax. Any advice is appreciated.

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    Chuckv's Avatar
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    nastorino,

    That 2004 is the same year as the one I had at my last larger property (2.4 acres) and it was a sweet machine. If you have 1/4 acre now and the house and drive take some of that -- this might be more tractor than you need. The 54 inch deck is a bit more of a fit than the 62 inch I had of course.

    I would seriously consider the x495 for your "now and later" use when you get onto acreage... The price is not bad at all (sold mine for more than that a couple of years ago...) and you can always make a lower offer when you 'bundle' in the cart and power-flo.

    Chuck
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    No problem tagging on as we are all trying to learn.

    Quote Originally Posted by nastorino View Post
    JD285, not trying to steal your thunder here but I felt silly starting another thread asking for advice on a X495 within 24hrs of your post.

    I'm starting my own hunt for my first GT. Little over a 1/4 acre of property with a slightly wet backyard due to improper run off, however it is fairly smooth. The tree roots on the surface will be removed in the next few weeks. Front yard has a 15deg slope towards the curb but flattens 4-5' before the curb. Driveway is being handled with an Ariens EFI 28 Platinum so I won't be purchasing a front mount blower. We will be listing this house for sale spring of 2018 and moving to one with 2-5 acres. I don't need to bag but prefer to so my dogs don't track all the grass inside the house. Since the back lawn often has wet spots and my intention to haul dirt, mulch and some sod to the backyard I figured a diff is a smart move. My pickup cannot easily access by backyard at all so the cart would be very beneficial. I cannot justify a 1026R. I'd rather have a GT and then add a 2 family when I get my next property.

    I found a used 2004 X495 with 1625 hours fairly local for $4,000 and the triple powerflow bagger and 10cu cart is $500.

    https://worcester.craigslist.org/grd/6134606170.html


    I have been researching the X390 54" with powerflow as well as the X590 54" with powerflow from local dealers. I understand these are a tier or two below the X495 which is essentially a X740 today.

    X390 54" bare $5699
    X590 54" bare $7399

    X390 w/ 7bu powerflow $8570
    X590 w/ 14bu powerflow $9120

    I would likely be financing for the 48 months at 0% and hit with 6.35% tax. Any advice is appreciated.
    BigJim55, SulleyBear and TJR345 like this.

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    Thank you kindly


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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    2017 John Deere x758 w/54" HC mower, 14bu powerflow, 4-way QH, FM dethatcher, 18 steel cart, CTA 66" blade
    2018 Ariens Hydro Pro EFI 28" #313 926068 - SOLD
    2017 Ariens 24" Platinum SHO EFI 921053 - SOLD

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuckv View Post
    nastorino,

    That 2004 is the same year as the one I had at my last larger property (2.4 acres) and it was a sweet machine. If you have 1/4 acre now and the house and drive take some of that -- this might be more tractor than you need. The 54 inch deck is a bit more of a fit than the 62 inch I had of course.

    I would seriously consider the x495 for your "now and later" use when you get onto acreage... The price is not bad at all (sold mine for more than that a couple of years ago...) and you can always make a lower offer when you 'bundle' in the cart and power-flo.

    Chuck
    The year and the hour count isn't a figure that would scare you away from the machine?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    BigJim55 likes this.
    2017 John Deere x758 w/54" HC mower, 14bu powerflow, 4-way QH, FM dethatcher, 18 steel cart, CTA 66" blade
    2018 Ariens Hydro Pro EFI 28" #313 926068 - SOLD
    2017 Ariens 24" Platinum SHO EFI 921053 - SOLD

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    Nastorino,

    Everything about the value of a Deere garden tractor hinges mostly on condition and how it was maintained over its lifetime. This is as true of the diesels (which are much longer engine life and should go 4000+ hours with no issues) for the rest of the tractor systems. The biggest issues I find in used and vintage Deere garden tractors is that the electrics get hacked by owners that both don't understand how these simple systems are intended to work and have never bothered to acquire/read the readily available technical information and wiring diagrams.

    I had no qualms purchasing my x495 from a semi-commercial use at a local cemetery with nearly 2400 hours on the clock at the time. I looked it over, saw that it needed tires, seat, and some deck work -- but was in well maintained mechanical condition.

    You will be able to tell when you drive this tractor you are contemplating buying how it runs and how it was maintained...

    Chuck
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    I wouldn't hesitate to buy a X495 Yanmar Diesel AS LONG AS IT SEEMS TO HAVE BEEN PROPERLY MAINTAINED.


    Some municipalities are very studious in their maintenance and others run the crap out of their machines until they break. Our two local municipalities represent both sides of this spectrum.

    The older tractors, such as the x495 are made better than the new tractors (in my humble opinion). They have heavier components and even the decks are built heavier. Just like many things in our economy, in the pursuit to keep the prices down, metal items became plastic and American made items became replaced with lower priced and often lower quality imports. I am not saying the new machines are junk, far from it. They just aren't built as they used to be.

    The issues which you are likely to face with a used machine are as follows;

    1. Look for leaks from the rear of the tractor, the hydrostatic drive area. Seals are known to wear and require replacement. Pull the hydrostatic drive dipstick and look at the fluid. Is it filthy and smell burn? If so, run.......as far and as fast as you can unless the tractor is really cheap and you have very good mechanical skills. Same with the engine area of the tractor. Leaks can mean anything from merely tightening something to a complete overhaul. A tractor which has an accumulation of grass and crug stuck to it is likely leaking fluid, which is why the crud sticks. The dirtier the tractor, the more concerned I would be about fluid leaks, etc.

    2. On the Tuff Torq rear drive axles, it's not uncommon to need seals, etc. Depending upon the unit and needs, it can be anywhere from a few hundred dollars and a few thousand dollars. I will tell you that a unit with 2,000 hours is likely to be nearing the point where it going to need the PTO clutch replaced. Parts alone are about $400 and the labor will depend upon the specific model and other needs. But a machine which has been mowed extensively (like a municipal machine) will have wear on it's PTO clutch assembly. This isn't a deal breaker, just negotiate accordingly.

    3. Municipal machines are often operated during the summer by students off from school or college. Youth often equals exuberance and They may not drive the machine with the same care and concern that usually accompanies the natural aging / maturity process. Just keep this in mind.

    4. Broken and missing items mean lack of maintenance, generally. When I see a machine which has duct taped items, I know that it is generally only fixed when it won't run. Hoods and side panels on these machines are very expensive and known to become broken or damaged from use. Just keep in mind that hoods can cost up to $800 depending upon the machine and model.

    5. If there have been electrical items added to the tractor, look to see if they are "spliced in" with Scotch Lock connectors or if they were added correctly. Electrical gremlins can be both expensive and frustrating. If it looks like a "cobb job", it likely will be a problem.

    6. It's not uncommon for the alternators and the starters on these machines with 2,000 hours to need replacing. If the machine has the original starter and alternator, plan on replacing them during your ownership. The John Deere 20 amp alternator for the Yanmar engine sells for $375. I just bought one on Amazon for $70 NEW, including shipping. It pays to now what you are looking for and to shop around BUT DO NOT BUY JUNK IMPORTED ITEMS THAT ARE A COMPROMISE TO FIT........they are nothing but a future headache waiting to happen.

    7. Ask the seller how often they grease their machine. he more often, the better (generally). If they say "Once or twice a year" you are likely looking at deck spindle replacements, etc. When properly greased, quality bearings will last a long time. When infrequently greased, they won't.

    8. If the machine is clean under the hood and underneath, it is someone who likely takes care of it. If the machine is filthy, it's likely to overheat when the radiator screen plugs and that's just unnecessarily hard on equipment. It only takes a minute to use a leaf blower and clean the machine after use.

    9. Cracked seats are common on these tractors because people lean on them when getting on and off. A new seat is around $150 to $200, depending upon the model. A worn seat isn't a warning sign, just the sign of a well used tractor.

    10. I personally wouldn't buy a used machine which was operated with "Comparable" hydro fluid or "less expensive' engine oil and filter. John Deere Low Viscosity Hydro Fluid is engineered EXACTLY for the best operation of the machine. Just because something is "comparable" doesn't mean it's the same. Cheaper fluids can cause very expensive internal damage. Note i said CAN, but they don't always. I have rebuilt numerous rear end assemblies of the Tuff Torq rear drive assemblies and the machines which use the proper fluid and were serviced as they should be didn't have any excessive wear on gears, bearings, etc. Some of them which used "cheaper fluid" did have problems and signs of wear. Some of the internal drive line pieces on the X495, and similar machines are expensive. For example, a gear set for one of these can cost $800 just in parts.

    These machines are well made and will run and run if taken care of. If you have the tools and skills to make many of the repairs yourself, then I wouldn't hesitate to purchase a machine with 2,000 or more hours.

    I have seen machines beaten to snot with 500 hours on them and I have seen well maintained machines with 3,800 hours which looked like new. Something which is clean and well maintained is likely to give you fewer problems.

    But just keep in mind, all hours are not the same. Engine hours on a gas engine and diesel engine are vastly different. A diesel with 2,000 hours should have another 2,000 or more hours in it before major repairs. A gas engine with 2,000 hours is likely very near major overhaul or even replacement. Granted, the gas engines are less expensive to replace, but their replacement will need to occur much sooner than a comparable hour diesel, all other things being equal.

    For example, a 445 gas John Deere with 2,500 hours likely needs major overhaul soon where as the same chassis, but the 455 with the Yanmar Diesel should be no more than half way through it's functional life. As I have stated over and over, how they are maintained is critical. Both of these tractors came with 60" mower decks available. A 445 with 2,500 hours would be a buy at $1,000 where as I would expect the 455 with the Yanmar to bring at least $2,500 or more.........Other than the engines, the rest of the chassis and drive components are the same. I use this model as an example as I am very familiar with them and I have owned both. I have had a 455 since new in 1996 and it's a great tractor. I have had to do some work on it, but my tractor has about 2,900 hours or so on it.

    Feel free to PM me specific questions or if there is a listing online you are considering. I am not on GTT everyday so if you PM me, I will be notified my email to make sure to respond to you. If you post in this thread, it could be several days ( or more) before I notice it.

    Please let me know if I can help, as I am glad to.............
    Last edited by SulleyBear; 05-27-2017 at 09:46 AM. Reason: added content to provide clarity, or that was the intent

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