New guy, new 590, Amber "Caution Indicator" EFI idles down?
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Thread: New guy, new 590, Amber "Caution Indicator" EFI idles down?

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    Update-Low oil pressure light, new 590, Amber "Caution Indicator" EFI idles down?

    So as I was moving it today after washing at 1/2 throttle the low oil pressure light flashed, amber warning came on and it went into safe mode. Checked oil level its fine. It has happened at all speeds, even full throttle. Guess I'll be calling the dealer Tuesday. Not happy.

    First time mowing yesterday. With engine speed in the lower part of the "Best cut zone", the Caution indicator came on 2-3 times, Engine speed went to a low idle, no other indicators on. Turned the mower off, check engine oil, bagger, transaxle fluid level, all good. Restarted would run fine for a few minutes the happen again. Then I put it to full throttle and it never happened again. The grass was not tall or heavy and was not bogging down the engine but maybe an occasional RPM dip. I wasn't using cruise control. I was using the Powerflow.

    Questions:
    - What safety system was kicking in? Mowing with engine speed too low? What safety systems are there?
    - Can I only mow at max rpm? Doesn't make since.
    - Anyone have a link to how the "EFI brain" works?

    Thanks in advance.
    David

    update, I read the Kawasaki manual and it says either overheating or "ECU" problem. No way it overheated in 5 minutes of running. Maybe JD has additional programming?
    Last edited by Nuke; 05-27-2017 at 01:29 PM.

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    Check the air intake screen(s) to see if grass clippings are blocking the flow of air to the engine. My x758 will do what you describe when airflow is cut off. On my tractor it is amazing how much air is being pulled through to cool the engine. When mowing my (very large) lawn sometimes I'll have to stop several times to clean off the outer screens and in really bad conditions (like current dandelion crop) even pull the internal screen to clean it.

    Rob
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    2016 x758 w/60" HC mower, 54" snowblower, MC519 bagger
    2010 2520 w/61" H130 loader, TA 42" forks, KK 60" Pro tiller, iMatch quick hitch, KK middle buster
    1996 345 - Traded
    Other toys: Stihl BR600 backpack blower; McCulloch chainsaws: 10-10S, 700, 805, 10-10; JD trimmer

    2520:__________________________x758:__________________________Faithful 345:___________________

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    xcopterdoc's Avatar
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    Did any codes show up on the display? Engine computer codes may not show up on display. Only way to retrieve them is have the dealer plug in and see whats going on. The most common issue is loss of rpm signal from speed sensor to engine computer.

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
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    TJR345's Avatar
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    You have to run wide open throttle when mowing no matter what.Most likely it was getting hot due to the low air flow.Air cooled engines need the airflow to keep the engine and components cool.Yes check to be sure the screens are clear to get max airflow.
    Running at WOT will give you the best cut due to blade tip speed.
    Tom

    2019 X590 with power mulch control and PF bagger
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    Well, looks like I ran over the lead going to the tractor shovel (shovel removed). This pulled the wiring hard enough to unplug the harness at the dash. Rewired everything(shovel harness) and checked all connections on/around the engine and all seems oK now. Worked for about an hour with the shovel, moving some fire wood and spreading a pile of processed gravel out that had been sitting a few years. While the "shovel" is no loader it does what I was looking for which is to move piles of lose material around. Another reason I got the 500 was the locking diff for pulling a cart of firewood up a 15% grade out of the woods. Loaded the cart with 360lbs of pavers and never had to use the diff lock climbing the hill. So I am way happy with my 590! I almost wish I had a 48" deck instead of the 54" but I'll get used to it I guess. Next up is trying out my "rock rake" Argi-fab which should be here in a few days.Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Nuke; 05-26-2017 at 03:41 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nuke View Post
    Well, looks like I ran over the lead going to the tractor shovel (shovel removed). This pulled the wiring hard enough to unplug the harness at the dash. Rewired everything(shovel harness) and checked all connections on/around the engine and all seems oK now. Worked for about an hour with the shovel, moving some fire wood and spreading a pile of processed gravel out that had been sitting a few years. While the "shovel" is no loader it does what I was looking for which is to move piles of lose material around. Another reason I got the 500 was the locking diff for pulling a cart of firewood up a 15% grade out of the woods. Loaded the cart with 360lbs of pavers and never had to use the diff lock climbing the hill. So I am way happy with my 590! I almost wish I had a 48" deck instead of the 54" but I'll get used to it I guess. Next up is trying out my "rock rake" Argi-fab which should be here in a few days.Click image for larger version. 

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    I'd still recommend cutting grass at full throttle. Most equipment works the same way. When the throttle is set at full the engine is really only running at high idle. When you apply a load to it like hitting a patch of thick/high grass or pushing a big pile of snow. The governor/carb or in your case the computer/throttle by wire/electric motor driven throttle body will open up and give it all the oats. Just listen to the engine while you put the tractor to work. You will be able to hear the difference. Even a push mower or walk behind snow blower will work the same.

    From what I read in the JD literature. That new throttle by wire system is supposed too give you a more constant blade speed than a carb/governor set up. It should be able to react to the load quicker.
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    xcopterdoc's Avatar
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    Glad ya got it fixed. Thanks for reporting back on the cause and repair.

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
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    Quote Originally Posted by H-D dealer dude View Post
    I'd still recommend cutting grass at full throttle. Most equipment works the same way. When the throttle is set at full the engine is really only running at high idle. When you apply a load to it like hitting a patch of thick/high grass or pushing a big pile of snow. The governor/carb or in your case the computer/throttle by wire/electric motor driven throttle body will open up and give it all the oats. Just listen to the engine while you put the tractor to work. You will be able to hear the difference. Even a push mower or walk behind snow blower will work the same.

    From what I read in the JD literature. That new throttle by wire system is supposed too give you a more constant blade speed than a carb/governor set up. It should be able to react to the load quicker.
    I know you are right. Just an old habit I have to "take it easy" on everything I own. I'm the guy who made the 12.5 hp/38" MTD last 18 years! I did throttle up into the bottom of the "mowing RPM" when using the shovel and it was easier. My first real project will be to modify the sleeve hitch to work with the bagger mount.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nuke View Post
    I know you are right. Just an old habit I have to "take it easy" on everything I own. I'm the guy who made the 12.5 hp/38" MTD last 18 years! I did throttle up into the bottom of the "mowing RPM" when using the shovel and it was easier. My first real project will be to modify the sleeve hitch to work with the bagger mount.
    Lugging an engine is the worst thing you can do to it. Especially with a brand new one. For example. When you are driving a car, truck or motorcycle with a manual transmission. You come to a hill or want to pass someone. You press the accelerator and the vehicle won't keep it's speed or go any faster. Then you have to down shift the transmission to get the RPM 's up. This gets the engine into it's torque curve. Where it makes the power/torque. A gas engine will have to rev up more to make maximum power. A diesel will make max torque at a lower RPM.

    On a new engine working it during the break in period with help seat the rings to the cylinder walls. However within reason. You don't want to beat it or run the snot out of it. Overheating it (for whatever reason) is another big no no and will lead to problems down the road. Make sure airflow to the engine is unrestricted.

    Also some tasks are done better at certain engine speeds. When I'm moving my tractor in a confined space it's done at idle.

    This brings up another sore subject with me. JD discontinuing the liquid cooling on the new EFI engines. Now that the X540 is gone. In my opinion having both EFI and liquid cooling would have been the best of both worlds. Now you have to move up into the X700's to get both.
    Last edited by H-D dealer dude; 05-26-2017 at 07:38 PM.
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    What's the reason for regretting the purchase the 54" deck instead of a 48"? I think i've thought about my shed for long enough that there's no way a X590 and bagger will fit length wise let along the width due to the triple bagger.
    BigJim55 likes this.

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