D130 maintenance - best method to use a 4 post lift to work underneath?
Results 1 to 10 of 10
Like Tree6Likes
  • 2 Post By palacekeeper
  • 2 Post By palacekeeper
  • 1 Post By H-D dealer dude
  • 1 Post By palacekeeper

Thread: D130 maintenance - best method to use a 4 post lift to work underneath?

  1. Top | #1

    Join Date
    May 2017
    Last Online
    08-14-2019 @ 06:50 AM
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    14
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts

    D130 maintenance - best method to use a 4 post lift to work underneath?

    Hello, I have a Challenger 9,000 lb capacity 4 post lift. The treads are 20" wide and there is 38" of space between the threads. I would like to find a safe way to put the riding mower on there, and I saw some references to putting them on lifts sideways and chocking the wheels. Is this a common way that folks use to work on lawn tractors? The only thing I can think of that might be tricky is that the treads are 7" high, so it might not be the easiest thing to drive it over the treads and I'm not sure if 7" is too tall and would bang the bottom of the mower when in the middle of the treads.

    Any thoughts or advice on this? Anyone tried this on a D series tractor? Thanks!

  2. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. Top | #2

    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Last Online
    03-02-2019 @ 06:20 PM
    Location
    Lehigh Valley PA
    Posts
    3,228
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 201 Times in 195 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by palacekeeper View Post
    Hello, I have a Challenger 9,000 lb capacity 4 post lift. The treads are 20" wide and there is 38" of space between the threads. I would like to find a safe way to put the riding mower on there, and I saw some references to putting them on lifts sideways and chocking the wheels. Is this a common way that folks use to work on lawn tractors? The only thing I can think of that might be tricky is that the treads are 7" high, so it might not be the easiest thing to drive it over the treads and I'm not sure if 7" is too tall and would bang the bottom of the mower when in the middle of the treads.

    Any thoughts or advice on this? Anyone tried this on a D series tractor? Thanks!

    I take it that the 2 ramps can't be moved close enough together to drive your tractor on like a car. Putting it on sideways would work for lifting it. As long as the tractor can't roll front or back. However it is not going to be easy getting it on and off. It will definitely get hung up just trying to drive it over them.

    If you are handy with wood. Make a set of ramps to get it up onto one side. Then make a bridge to span the space between the ramps. I'm thinking a stack of wood screwed together that rests on the floor. Make each bridge just wide enough so the wheels are not easily driven off the side.

    Good luck

  4. Top | #3

    Join Date
    May 2017
    Last Online
    08-14-2019 @ 06:50 AM
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    14
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Thanks for the tips! Actually, it might be even simpler. Using your bridge idea- there is a 2-3" channel on the inside edge of each tread (they don't move btw). I'm thinking just 2 boards (2x8 or 10, 37.5" long) laid on top of the channel section between the treads would create a nice simple bridge area and would just fit snugly in the 38" space between the treads. These channels are normally used for accessories such as a rolling scissor jack.

    Just need to put the ramps that came with the lift on the side of the one tread and drive up. There is about a 2" lip on the front edge of the ramp that should allow it to rest flush on the tread. Maybe some heavy duty velcro on the underside of the front edge of the ramps to keep them from sliding (normally the ramps use pegs to hold them in place). Just might work well!

    I'll post some pics if I get this setup working

  5. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. Top | #4

    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Last Online
    03-02-2019 @ 06:20 PM
    Location
    Lehigh Valley PA
    Posts
    3,228
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 201 Times in 195 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by palacekeeper View Post
    Thanks for the tips! Actually, it might be even simpler. Using your bridge idea- there is a 2-3" channel on the inside edge of each tread (they don't move btw). I'm thinking just 2 boards (2x8 or 10, 37.5" long) laid on top of the channel section between the treads would create a nice simple bridge area and would just fit snugly in the 38" space between the treads. These channels are normally used for accessories such as a rolling scissor jack.

    Just need to put the ramps that came with the lift on the side of the one tread and drive up. There is about a 2" lip on the front edge of the ramp that should allow it to rest flush on the tread. Maybe some heavy duty velcro on the underside of the front edge of the ramps to keep them from sliding (normally the ramps use pegs to hold them in place). Just might work well!

    I'll post some pics if I get this setup working

    If them ramps mount like I think they do. Can you put 4 holes in the side of the tread? Where you want to drive your tractor up. 2 holes for each ramp.
    Last edited by H-D dealer dude; 05-31-2017 at 08:01 PM.

  7. Top | #5

    Join Date
    May 2017
    Last Online
    08-14-2019 @ 06:50 AM
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    14
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Yes absolutely. Just need to make sure it's all going to work before I commit and drill the holes


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    BigJim55 and H-D dealer dude like this.

  8. Top | #6

    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Last Online
    03-02-2019 @ 06:20 PM
    Location
    Lehigh Valley PA
    Posts
    3,228
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 201 Times in 195 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by palacekeeper View Post
    Yes absolutely. Just need to make sure it's all going to work before I commit and drill the holes


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Post some pictures when you get it worked out.

  9. Top | #7

    Join Date
    May 2017
    Last Online
    08-14-2019 @ 06:50 AM
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    14
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by H-D dealer dude View Post
    Post some pictures when you get it worked out.
    Worked great ! 20lb velcro worked well also, didn't need to drill holes.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. Top | #8

    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Last Online
    03-02-2019 @ 06:20 PM
    Location
    Lehigh Valley PA
    Posts
    3,228
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 201 Times in 195 Posts
    Quote Originally Posted by palacekeeper View Post
    Worked great ! 20lb velcro worked well also, didn't need to drill holes.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Can you get the boards out for working on the bottom of the deck?
    Although the floor is too nice to scrape old grass over. lol
    DRobinson likes this.

  11. Top | #9
    xcopterdoc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Last Online
    Today @ 11:59 AM
    Location
    nc
    Posts
    1,635
    Thanks
    190
    Thanked 843 Times in 324 Posts
    We use a cargo or motorcycle tiedown strap around the tire as a safety. Looks good

    Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk

  12. Top | #10

    Join Date
    May 2017
    Last Online
    08-14-2019 @ 06:50 AM
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    14
    Thanks
    1
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Yes the boards are only needed to drive on. The wheels are totally on the lift treads. Sorry for the delayed reply


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    H-D dealer dude likes this.

  13. Remove Advertisements
    GreenTractorTalk.com
    Advertisements
     

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •