Seatbelts on Lawn and Garden tractors
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    Seatbelts on Lawn and Garden tractors

    I took a turn down a slope with my new JD X354 (All wheel steering) and I thought I was going to be thrown off. I thought I had bought it. That all wheel steering can be surprising. Now to my question: Why are there no seat belts on lawn and garden tractor?

    Toolfriend
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    John Deere X354 with All Wheel Steering 2017

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    Cutty72's Avatar
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    Because they do not have a ROPS installed. SO, if it were to roll, you should GTFO as quick as possible. If you were wearing a seatbelt, you would be crushed by the tractor.

    Same theory with the S/M/CUTs, if the ROPS is down = no seatbelt. If the ROPS is up = seatbelt.
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    Probably because there is no ROPS.

    A seatbelt keeps your butt locked into the seat. That works in conjunction with there being a ROPS to take the weight of the tractor and provide a cage for the tractor to roll on without crushing you. What happens if you are locked into the seat on a lawn tractor and it rolls? You can't jump off. Your body ends up taking the entire weight of the lawn tractor. Plus, you're pinned upright so all that weight will be on your neck and/or spine.

    Even for guys with larger machines that have a ROPS, many will tell you that they wear the seatbelt when the ROPS is up and don't wear it when the ROPS is down. If the ROPS is down they want to be able to jump off and take their chances if it starts to roll.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toolfriend View Post
    I took a turn down a slope with my new JD X354 (All wheel steering) and I thought I was going to be thrown off. I thought I had bought it. That all wheel steering can be surprising. Now to my question: Why are there no seat belts on lawn and garden tractor?

    Toolfriend

    Probably because lawn & garden tractor don't have a roll over protective structure. Otherwise a seatbelt would guarantee that the tractor would crush you.

    That's why I'm not crazy about all wheel steer tractors.
    Last edited by H-D dealer dude; 06-02-2017 at 10:50 AM.
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    Bonehead Club Lackey Levi's Avatar
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    What has been said is correct. I had an AWS 425 JD I bought back in '92. After it about killed me 3 times it was time to get rid of it. They aren't good on hills. There are other things I didn't like about it but some people like them. I'm not a fan and would never again have one.
    1026R -- 60D mmm -- H120 Loader -- Curtis 150 Tiller -- DR 3 point Chipper -- Howse Middle Buster -- Brinly 16 Blade Disk -- Kodiak 5' Box Blade -- 12-42 lb. suitcase weights -- Lawn roller -- Upgraded seat springs from psrumors -- Kennyd's bolt on hooks & clevis -- BXpanded tooth bar -- CMI 6' wagon -- Heavy Hitch Cultivator /garden bedder / hiller attachments --

    Donated by some great people/vendors on here: 72 lb. wheel weights -- Bro-Tek 1½" rear wheel spacers.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Levi View Post
    What has been said is correct. I had an AWS 425 JD I bought back in '92. After it about killed me 3 times it was time to get rid of it. They aren't good on hills. There are other things I didn't like about it but some people like them. I'm not a fan and would never again have one.
    That's what I figured and I never even drove an AWS. A flat lot with lots of obstacles I'm sure they shine.
    Watched a video of a guy plowing with one. Turning around at the end of his push looked easy. However the driveway only had a very slight grade.
    Last edited by H-D dealer dude; 06-03-2017 at 07:39 AM.
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    If you don't like ZT then most opt for AWS,but like ZT's their good on flat and tough to maneuver on slopes and hills.
    Tom

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    Bonehead Club Lackey Levi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJR345 View Post
    If you don't like ZT then most opt for AWS,but like ZT's their good on flat and tough to maneuver on slopes and hills.
    Other then trying to kill me, the worse thing was turning. If you are mowing beside a building or fence and need to turn away from it the whole tractor moves against the building or fence making it so you need a chain and another vehicle to pull you away from what you were mowing beside. If the left side of the deck is beside, say a barn and you want to turn right to pull away from it the tractor moves left putting you even tighter against the barn. Straighten the steering out and you have now put the tractor even closer to the barn then it was to begin with. And so it goes having to get chains and a vehicle to pull you away from it. I don't know how many times I've had to do this. The AWS just kept getting me in trouble. I couldn't get used to how the steering operated and I had it for 11 years.
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    1026R -- 60D mmm -- H120 Loader -- Curtis 150 Tiller -- DR 3 point Chipper -- Howse Middle Buster -- Brinly 16 Blade Disk -- Kodiak 5' Box Blade -- 12-42 lb. suitcase weights -- Lawn roller -- Upgraded seat springs from psrumors -- Kennyd's bolt on hooks & clevis -- BXpanded tooth bar -- CMI 6' wagon -- Heavy Hitch Cultivator /garden bedder / hiller attachments --

    Donated by some great people/vendors on here: 72 lb. wheel weights -- Bro-Tek 1½" rear wheel spacers.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Levi View Post
    Other then trying to kill me, the worse thing was turning. If you are mowing beside a building or fence and need to turn away from it the whole tractor moves against the building or fence making it so you need a chain and another vehicle to pull you away from what you were mowing beside. If the left side of the deck is beside, say a barn and you want to turn right to pull away from it the tractor moves left putting you even tighter against the barn. Straighten the steering out and you have now put the tractor even closer to the barn then it was to begin with. And so it goes having to get chains and a vehicle to pull you away from it. I don't know how many times I've had to do this. The AWS just kept getting me in trouble. I couldn't get used to how the steering operated and I had it for 11 years.

    So I guess that they are only good for trimming around obstacles if you are turning with the tractor. Like driving in a circle around it.

    11 years. Wow I'm amazed you made it that long. lol
    Last edited by H-D dealer dude; 06-04-2017 at 07:59 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Levi View Post
    What has been said is correct. I had an AWS 425 JD I bought back in '92. After it about killed me 3 times it was time to get rid of it. They aren't good on hills. There are other things I didn't like about it but some people like them. I'm not a fan and would never again have one.
    On the Zero-turns the front casters wash out when mowing on side slopes and the front heads downhill quick. Your natural reaction is to correct with the handles but that just makes it worse. You have to train your brain to throw both handles in reverse or park until the momentum stops.
    One company makes a disc brake that installs on the caster axles so you can keep them from turning. Thinking I want to weld up a foot operate linkage that throws a fork over the caster wheels and locks it straightaway. Almost went through a fence once. And was headed for doom when the mower deck caught on something. Tractor had to pull me out that time. I just stay clear and go slow on side slopes now.
    Also found my front tires were over-inflated.

    You would think adding some ballast to the front would help. I left my suitcase weight on once and it made it much more dangerous...
    Last edited by Bulitt; 06-04-2017 at 08:40 AM.
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    2520 Mods - http://www.greentractortalk.com/foru...2520-mods.html
    Posted for general info only. Not suggesting you alter your tractor based upon my feeble minded posts. Do so at your own risk. Maintenance and mods should be performed by a JD Dealer, or refer to your owners and maintenance manuals for proper procedures.


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